mitsubishi hd 1080 red and green shadows

**kmacgrego** · **01-12-07, 12:56 AM**

i have had an hd 1080 for a few years now and today i went to watch it and i turned it on and after 5 mins it seem to split into two different pictures red and green so i pressed a button on the xbox and it was fine then it happened again i tryed it on different things like a dvd player and it still does it even when showing the inputs names it is the words shadowed by red and even in the menu i have no idea what happened if anyone could help i would be really happy

**lcaillo** · **01-12-07, 09:13 AM**

This is likely a bad solder connection or a bad convergence output IC. If it is the former and is corrected soon, you are less likely to cause further damage. If you don't correct bad connections in these circuits it often causes failures of the output IC.

Post the model number for your set if you want more specific information. Also, post your location in case someone know a good shop in your area.

**kmacgrego** · **01-12-07, 01:29 PM**

the only information i could find on it was medallion HD 1080 Mitsubishi it said tvs convergence i tried looking were all the plugs go and didn't see anything but i was in the advanced features and i went into convergence and i can move the blue around and it then shadows blue but the red thats off to the right wont move side to side i tried doing reset to defaults and then it was all lighted up except for the red was off to the right again and still wont wont move left or right but it will move up and down

**lcaillo** · **01-12-07, 02:05 PM**

On the back of the set, on your receipt, or on your owners manual you will find the model number. Stop using the set until you get it repaired to prevent making the situation worse.

**kmacgrego** · **01-14-07, 04:10 PM**

ws-65819 model 123005 manufactured march 2002 pims

**lcaillo** · **01-14-07, 07:47 PM**

Quote:

kmacgrego wrote:

ws-65819 model 123005 manufactured march 2002 pims

That model uses the STK392-570, which has been one of the more reliable convergence output ICs. It is more common on these to simply need to resolder the connections at the ICs rather than have to replace them like many CRT based RPTVs. Like I said, get it fixed before using it more. If it is what I suspect, you will eventually blow the IC if you keep using it.

**kmacgrego** · **01-14-07, 08:37 PM**

if that is the problem and is what the repair guy says what should i expect to pay to for him to repair it? i have no idea about any of this and it would be ez for someone to rip me off (even though i hate to admit it)

**lcaillo** · **01-15-07, 08:02 AM**

Prices will vary greatly based on where you are. You should ask this question of the servicer before you have them come out. This is a routine repair in the vast majority of cases. Occasionaly there might be something more complex than replacing or resoldering the output ICs, but it is rare. Ask the rates for each service, and the policies if if it something more complex that requires light box removal to the shop for service. If a servicer will not discuss rates on such a routine problem up front, have nothing to do with them. They may give you a range that will depend on what is found and how much alignment you need done, and that is acceptable. Know up front what the charges will be if you decide that you don't trust the guy and don't want them to complete the service once they come out. Be sure that they align the 1080i as well as the 480 mode.

Our rates, which are among the lowest, would be $60 for a local service call, $120-180 for labor, plus parts. We charge $35.50 each for the ICs. Occasionally there are realted fuses or resistors that are damaged.

Post you location and maybe someone can recommend a quality servicer.

**kmacgrego** · **01-15-07, 02:39 PM**

centennial, colorado

**lcaillo** · **01-15-07, 04:30 PM**

I don't personally know any of the servicers in your area. Have you spoken to any of them or researched service at all? Does your dealer provide service support?

**Liuman** · **03-01-07, 02:33 AM**

I have the same problem on my Mitsubishi Model: VS-70601 could I purchase the 2 convergence output IC from you. I know how to solder the IC on the board, just need to know the location where they are located. If you can give a few pointer

**lcaillo** · **03-01-07, 07:09 AM**

I don't sell parts. I just keep a little inventory for the jobs I do. Contact ACME, B&D Electronics, or Electronika (in Denver, NOT Electronix, do not buy parts from them). The convergence ICs are hard to miss. Big chips with 18-22 pins, on a big heat sink. The numbers on the chips will be STK-something. IIRC your set uses three output ICs, but I would have to check. That series of sets can be more comples to repair because the chips rarely failed. Sometimes there are other problems. If you have an experienced Mits servicer in your area you may be needing him if the chips don't fix it. To converge it properly you will need a manual.

**Liuman** · **03-01-07, 06:11 PM**

Thank you lcaillo for reply.

I did see 2 large chip are cover with metal heatsink locate toward the center front of the TV on the main board. I will try to remove the heatsink to see the # on them tonight. This TV was made in 1999, when I open it on the day before I had to remove a layer of dust blanket on top of the main board. I guess its been over heating for a while before the problem shows up. But, on the right side panel there is a sealed metal box inside there were 3 large 22pin chips. If you can look up for me and let me know do I have 2 or 3 of this convergence IC will be very nice.
I am all on my own, there is NO Mitsubishi Service Tech. around with in 60 Miles.

**RollsRoyce** · **03-01-07, 08:13 PM**

Robert Jones ("Mr. Bob") and Chuck Williams are both in the Bay area. They are technicians as well as calibrators and can do your IC repair and any convergence adjustments needed afterwards. They are regulars on several different HT forums and can be contacted through those forums.

Good Luck!

**lcaillo** · **03-02-07, 09:08 AM**

Your set uses 3 STK391-020 and are on the heat sink to the side. Do not confuse these with the more common STK392 series chips. Buy them from a reputable supplier such as one that I recommended above. There are other problems beyond the chips in these sets sometimes. Often one of the pico fuses blows when the chips fail.

**Liuman** · **03-02-07, 01:32 PM**

Thank you, I will order from B&D.
I am inside my TV looking at those pico fuses, because of the age its really hard to see what was print on them before. I don't know the right amp on them. Is possible to for you to help me again by look it up. Please !!!

**lcaillo** · **03-03-07, 10:45 AM**

Give the lable on the fuse and I can tell you. I just did one that had Z905 open and it was a 2A pico.

**Breeze4u** · **03-03-07, 07:55 PM**

I have a HD 1080 as well. Recently the picture completely went out, ie black screen, sound was ok. Picture came on again and all was well for a few days, then out again. Now it's currently on again.

No picture on any input. Is this the picture tube?

What can I expect to pay for a repair of this type. Any help would be appreciated. TV is approx. 6 years old.

Thank you very much.

Jim

**lcaillo** · **03-04-07, 10:11 AM**

Give the specific model of your set and I might be able to help. HD1080 is a generic label and not your model number. It is almost certainly not a "picture tube" problem.

**Liuman** · **03-15-07, 07:50 PM**

Thank you for everyones help!!

I received my parts over the weekend.
I replace all 3pcs STK391-020 and TV is fixed.

No Pico fuse were found blow.

But, the convergence adjustments were all off Thanks for Video Essential DVD I was able to adjust my self return the picture batter then before.

**shoz** · **04-06-07, 09:37 AM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

On the back of the set, on your receipt, or on your owners manual you will find the model number. Stop using the set until you get it repaired to prevent making the situation worse.

I have the same probem with my Mitsubishi except my model # is 65809. Would appreciate haelp on what IC #'s I should purchase to repair.

**lcaillo** · **04-06-07, 09:51 AM**

Your set uses the STK392-570 for convergence outputs. There are two of them, each amplifying 3 channels. You likely do not need to replace them and should look for bad solder connections first. Sometimes, there will be a fuse (pico type) on one of the supply lines that opens if an output IC shorts. Mostly on these sets, the solder cracks and if you keep using it you eventually blow a chip and maybe a fuse.

**shoz** · **04-06-07, 10:08 AM**

Thanks a mill for your quick reply. It's working great at the moment but I never know when I turn it on if it will have the shadows or be ok. Been on about hr today and corrected it's self. When I cut off for the day will unplug and check the solder connections tomorrow. Thanks again for your help.

**lcaillo** · **04-06-07, 11:53 AM**

STOP USING THE SET! Every time it goes out of convergence you are risking blowing a chip. If the chip is run repeatedly with one supply low or output connection open, you run a very high risk of creating a problem where there is not one now. Resoldering some joints is a lot less trouble than changing chips, output load resistors, supply fuses and resistors, etc.

**shoz** · **04-06-07, 02:12 PM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

STOP USING THE SET! Every time it goes out of convergence you are risking blowing a chip. If the chip is run repeatedly with one supply low or output connection open, you run a very high risk of creating a problem where there is not one now. Resoldering some joints is a lot less trouble than changing chips, output load resistors, supply fuses and resistors, etc.

That I have done and have pulled the pwr plug. Now hwere do I find those little buggers at. Have removed the back panel but don't see them right off hand.

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