CRT based RPTV Convergence Repairs

**Scuba Steve** · **04-01-08, 04:31 PM**

OK, I was afraid of that. I am pretty sure I was on Allexperts.com when I read that I needed the 1.8ohm resistor. I have been doing so much research that I can't remember for sure....
I guess I will order from here https://www.vancebaldwin.com/
They are higher than some of the others that I have seen, but at least I know I'm getting the right part this time.
Thanks for all your help!

**Panda** · **04-08-08, 07:21 PM**

Update:

So basically, I was fixing my TV today and everything went well except for the soldering part. Some pins when I were to solder it, it wouldn't stick to the board and it would just connect itself to another pin that was already soldered. So I desoldered, soldered and repeated the steps until I was able to get a decent solder. During the process, I heard a few "clicks" and I saw during some of my soldering the board started to bubble a little on the green area.

When I was complete, I placed every cable in the original spot and double checked the connection and when I turned on my TV, there's a green LED light that just clicks and blinks. I think I blew out the board.. Or maybe the IC's that I ordered were bad? or maybe resistors need to be changed? Ugh, this was my first time soldering but I saw/read some tutorials online on how to do it.

Could anyone confirm?

**lcaillo** · **04-08-08, 08:16 PM**

You have to go back and check your work. Verify the continuity from the pins to the first connection on each trace. Verify that you have not bridged two pins together. You may have damaged a trace on the board.

**Panda** · **04-09-08, 12:09 PM**

Thanks for clarifying Icaillo. I believe I damaged the board somehow. I went to check my work again, tried to solder the ones that were having difficulty trying to stick to the board. All it did was form a solder blob and rolled down to the next solder joining that one. Is there any way to fix the damage board?

I'm thinking I'm going to throw in the towel and stop wasting more hours and money into this DIY project. Does anyone know who takes old TV's ? haha

**lsdean** · **04-21-08, 08:27 AM**

I have a Mits WS-65857. This problem sometimes happens at startup but will sometimes popup here and there at random times. It does seem that it happens infrequently when the tv has been on awhile.

Is this a convergence issue (possibly soldering job fix it?)? Roughly, is this an expensive fix or should I look for a replacement if this issue gets worse? Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks

I have attached two pics of the issue

**lcaillo** · **04-21-08, 08:42 AM**

Please start a new thread for each new problem.

If you repair it soon you may just have a bad solder connection. If so, continuing to use the set will eventually often result in damage to the IC or related parts. In some rare situations you can even damage a tube by continued use without repair.

**lsdean** · **04-21-08, 09:09 AM**

lcaillo, sorry for not starting a new thread but thanks for the information.

**Krankshaft** · **04-23-08, 03:11 AM**

Quote:

Panda wrote:

Is there any way to fix the damage board?

Yes take a razor knife and scrape away the solder mask on the trace in question then bend it the lead in question over and solder it directly to the trace if the pin won't reach hook it up with insulated wire.

**ibokie** · **04-27-08, 06:32 PM**

I'd like to give an update on the dreaded convergence problem on my Hitachi 53UWX10BA.I ordered my parts kit from Andrews Electronics. The Kit came with the amps and resistors AND instructions on which resistors to change out with a layout of the circuit board they were on. Sweet ! De-soldered the old parts,re-soldered the new ones and the TV works like a champ ! I had never tried anything like this before and I'd like to thank Icaillo for all his input into this forum.ALL the comments on this thread were informative and helpful enough to allow a novice like me to attemp this repair. Again, everything went just like these threads led me to believe they would.Thanks again Icaillo,knowledge is wealth and you are a bank my friend !

**pioneerman** · **05-02-08, 05:23 PM**

Thanks for the intersting information. I have A Pioneer SD-643HD5 Rear projection TV and it has a convergence problem. I can not move the red all the way to the right to create the white line. Im guessing based on your information that this is the ic's . Is there a service manual available or a parts breakdown to identify the location of the ic's and resistors? Also I was unable to locate a part number for the Ic's . Could someone please help with the necessary information.

As a side note. I had a problem about a year ago with the set blowing a fuse when turned on and off quikley. I had it diagnosed as the fuse and the service people replaced it. It blew a couple of hours later. I soldered a piece of wire to either side of the fuse and connected an in line fuse holder with the same size fuse and ran it to the outside of the set. It has not blown in a year. You just have to be carefull not to turn off and on quickley. Im not sure if this could be related. Thanks

**lcaillo** · **05-02-08, 08:00 PM**

Please start a new thread for your problem.

I don't have any service info on that model, so I don't know which chips it uses. I'll see what I can find. Pioneer manuals are ridiculously priced from them, but you can likely find it online for a reasonable price, if not for free. Look in the service manual sticky for some links.

**Krankshaft** · **05-02-08, 08:07 PM**

Next time be sure to start your own thread rather then posting in someone elses it makes it alot easier for us to find it.

Your fuse issue could be that the original fuse was a slow blow fuse and the service people installed a fast blow fuse.

As for the inline fuse holder why was that necessary?

Was there a fuse socket there or was it in a leaded (axial) package?

Regardless replacing a fuse without troubleshooting why it blew in the first place is a bad practice.

Anyhow since the TV is functioning and electronics aren't smoking lets leave it at that.

As for your convergence amps this failure is completely normal and has nothing to do with your fuse issue.

The resistors are metal film with a ceramic core and usually are in close proximity to the outputs.

**lcaillo** · **05-02-08, 10:00 PM**

Actually, the reason that the fuse blows is usually bad solder connections on the convergence outputs or a failing output IC. Very common in the Pioneers. Actually, bad solder connections are pervasive in most circuits on the pioneer RPTVs.

**pioneerman** · **05-03-08, 06:16 AM**

Thanks for the replys. The reason I did thefuse holder was it kept blowing. Somebody would turn it on and then off. (Grand Daughter and that would caue it to blow. It made it so I didnt have to remove the back panel. It was a slow blow fuse before and I replaced it like for like.

Where would be the best place to start looking for the bad solder joint?

Any luck with the parts?

**lcaillo** · **05-03-08, 07:34 AM**

Fuses blow for a reason. You should never repeatedly replace fuses without finding the reason that they open.

Chances are that you have damaged the ICs by continuing to run it in this condition and they need to be replaced. The entire board needs to be inspected for ring cracks in a Pioneer.

**Abe** · **05-21-08, 03:34 AM**

Im about to replace the Convergence IC on my Mitsubishi ws-55511 is it better to completely remove the board or is it possible to replace the IC while installed in the projection unit.

**lcaillo** · **05-21-08, 05:22 AM**

It depends on the set and how the wires are dressed. IIRC, I usually just pull the chassis out and stand it up on these, removing a few wires to get the slack needed.

**wwk3** · **05-28-08, 06:13 PM**

Hello,
I have a Samsung HCM5525W, I replaced both Ic's, and when I fired it up I cannot adjust red, and it is bowed along the top and sides. I check and found that I had two burnt resistors, the rz144 and rz145. I replaced those with 2 3.9 ohm 2 watt resistor. When I turned the set back on the red is still not adjustable. When I was removing the IC's i did knick the board a bit, but I bridged the gap I created with a bit of solder. Any advice on what could be causing this problem? Thanks in advance for your help!!

-Warren

**lcaillo** · **05-28-08, 07:21 PM**

Open connection, damaged IC, inferior parts quality, bridged solder connection, DCU problem... lots of possibilities, check your work.

Please start a new thread when discussing a new problem.

**Murphster05** · **06-10-08, 08:34 PM**

This may have been asked elsewhere, and I read everything from the first page the third post. I have a Pioneer SD-643HD5 with convergence issues. I am going to replace the ICs on the convergence board. I pulled the board out and found they are the STK392-110's, but I have two STK392-180's. I got them after reading this post:

http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.fili...ergenceFix.htm

Are these the wrong IC's for this board? Should I reorder and get the 394-160's or will the 392-180's work well enough? Thanks for any help you can provide on this matter.
-Robert

EDIT: Is this the wrong area for this question? Do I need to start a new post for this question? Apologies if I have posted incorrectly.

**lcaillo** · **06-11-08, 06:18 AM**

The STK392-180 is perfectly OK as a sub for the STK392-110 IF the manufacturer was actually Sanyo. The important question here is where did you get them and how sure are you that they are not a counterfeit or second quality part?

Yes, you should always start a new thread for a new question. This is the right forum in which to post the question.

**kaindia_1** · **06-12-08, 10:26 PM**

Quote:

wwk3 wrote:

Hello,
I have a Samsung HCM5525W, I replaced both Ic's, and when I fired it up I cannot adjust red, and it is bowed along the top and sides. I check and found that I had two burnt resistors, the rz144 and rz145. I replaced those with 2 3.9 ohm 2 watt resistor. When I turned the set back on the red is still not adjustable. When I was removing the IC's i did knick the board a bit, but I bridged the gap I created with a bit of solder. Any advice on what could be causing this problem? Thanks in advance for your help!!

-Warren

Hello Warren. I just fixed the convergence on an HCM5525W a few months ago. You need to find the two fuses near the convergence chips. They are solid green in color, and look exactly like resistors, but without the color bands on them. They're both soldered on the board, so you'll have to remove the board from the set. One, or both have failed. These are identified on the under-side of the board as a sine-wave. You can use your ohm meter directly across, and see if you have continuity or not. Their values are printed on them in really fine print. I forget the value myself. They cost a little over a buck each.

Also, I had to replace 6 resistors. If there is any discoloration on the PCB underneath the resistors, you should replace them. Its good practice.

Let me know if you need any more guidance. Good luck!

**house of payne** · **06-29-08, 02:00 PM**

I have a Mits 46809 and I was seeing the red ghosting to the right. I read and reread this site and decided to open up the TV and take a look-see. After unplugging the TV and verifying that it wouldn't power on, I took the back off the set and surveyed the layout. I then removed the speaker cover from the front of the set (pulling on the bottom of the cover, gently pop the corners loose and then middle to release the cover) and found the access panel. I opened it and surveyed some more. The number of tiny wires was very intimidating. But after rereading the entire thread, I decided to give the repair a shot.

Starting from the back of the set I was able to immediately find the largest heatsink located in the middle of the TV. I removed the 3 screws along the back side of the black frame. I wasn't able to get the assembly to move until I went around front and found the two black tabs on the front of the frame. Once the tabs were released the entire assembly was able to slide out the back. Wires prevented me from getting it far enough out to look underneath. I was able to tip it up and look but there was no way I was going to be able to solder upside down. I then decided to unplug each of the wires on the left side of the assembly. This allowed me to slide the frame out and flip it over. I was able to position the TV so that I could rest the right side of the assembly (the side with wires still connected) on the back of the TV and the left side of the assembly on my fireplace hearth. This gave me a perfectly level place to solder.

Early Saturday morning I went to Radio Shack to buy the necessary tools and solder. I bought the 25W pencil soldering iron, the recommended desoldering iron with the red bulb, the thinnest 62/36 solder, desolder braid (just in case I made a mess) and the helping hands w/magnifier. The total bill was $48.50.

To start the repair I used the magnifier to look closely at the existing solder points and determined that an end pin was discolored. I decided to start with that one. Two others looked like they were starting to form rings but they looked ok. I plugged in the desoldering iron and after it heated cleaned the solder from the pin. This tool made it a breeze. Now time to solder. After the iron warmed up I touched the solder to the tip to "tin" it. I then touched the iron to the pin and board, waited a couple of seconds, and touched the solder to the base of the pin. There was a bunch of smoke. I got scared and pulled the solder away too quickly. I only covered half of the pin. So, I warmed the pin and solder again, added more solder and got the rest of the pin. I briefly contemplated doing the rest of the pins while I had the TV apart but decided not to attempt it. I'll probably regret not doing this later.

I wanted to test to see if the problem was fixed so I put the board back into the TV, reconnected all the wires, put all wires back into their tie downs, and plugged it in. I waited for smoke and didn't find any. I then reluctantly powered on the TV and again, no smoke. The ultimate test, I went to the convergence menu and found a perfect white plus sign. UNBELIEVABLE, IT WORKS!!! Just for good measure, I decided to reset the convergence to factory settings. I then reconnected all the TV inputs and watched my Tivo'ed World Poker Tour episode. The picture was perfect.

If I can do this repair anyone can. I am a bit of a do-it-yourselfer but by no means a professional handyman. I have replaced a motherboard in a computer but I have never soldered before. The instructions here on this site were enough to get me through the entire repair. If you take your time, you can do it too. If you need tools I have a soldering iron and desoldering iron that were only plugged in once. I also have a spool of solder that is only missing about a quarter inch. I'll sell all three for $20 plus shipping.

Thank you lcaillo! I can't thank you enough for this thread. You saved me $400!!! (that I promptly deposited in Atlantic City)

Sincerely,
Mike

**lcaillo** · **06-29-08, 08:08 PM**

Next time, give a little to a more deserving charity.

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