The picture looks scrambled like if you turned to a premium channel back in 1990. It was working fine, I hooked up my PS3 and it was scrambled so I stopped and went back to watching normal TV for a while (no problems) then I changed to a HD channel and it was scrambled again, so I pressed the reset button (had to do it twice before it stopped flashing) and then all I got was a blue screen on HD channels and now the analog channels look all scrambled even if I bypass may cable box and plug the cable directly to the TV.
Does anyone know what has happened? And what I can Do?
Here is a picture of what it first looked like. Scrabled TV Picture.JPG
So then I turned everything off then unplugged it for a while.
Now through the HDMI I get a blue screen with white flashing in the center but doesn't seem to effect the menu you can still see those. Scrabled TV Picture 2.JPG
It did say my input 1 (VCR) is using S-Video which its not I do not have anything connected to S-Video. Now its doesn't and I only get a blue screen, and no sound.
Using the cable directly to the TV I got bright green Wavy lines for a while, Scrabled TV Picture 3.JPG now there very very dull and switches back to the bright green., I get sound but you can hear static every once and a while more so when its bright green , it still outputs sound to the receiver.
It now has a red light for lamp indicator so I can't turn it on any more.
Does anyone know what has happened? And what I can Do,and cost?
The repair place came by today and brought a lamp with them to determine of it is in fact the lamp and not something else. If it was the lamp then I'd be responsible for the charges which seems fair. If the new one I bought was defective then no big deal, I called the place I bought it from and they said they'd replace it or refund me.
Anyways, it's not the lamp. The plugs from the ballast that connect to the lamp assembly have broken free from their mount and were just flopping around in the hole. So now it's a finger pointing exercise. My assertion is that since the TV came back to me totally inoperative (which was different then the condition they received it in) it's likely the repair place that damaged the plugs. But, when I pointed that out it was dismissed with "Oh, our techs have been doing this for 10 years, they know this piece is fragile and make sure to not damage it." And, I can't say for sure wether or not I broke them since I had been in there trying out other lamp assemblies. But, I'm generally very gentile when doing this procedure and don't try and force it in. So, it can't really be proven either way.
However, it's the techs opinion that given the previous complaint that the lamp would not come on every time that the ballast is suspect anyways. So, they've told me to sit tight while they deal with Fry's and to see if Fry's will cover it. Fry's had actually called me last week to tell me about sending the techs out to look at it. They also said that if it was not a lamp issue that any repairs would of course be covered by the warranty.
So, *shrug* who knows what's going to happen now. However, if responsibility does land on me and I can't negotiate anything with the repair place to perhaps have me cover the part and them cover all or at least part of the labor, I'm looking into my options to replace it myself.
The part seems to only be about $130 and I have the Chassis replacement manual and it seems pretty straightforward to replace it if I wanted to go that route.
Or, I could still take it apart and try to re-seat or somehow re-attach the plugs to their clip or whatever it is holding them in place
I just found this forum while researching the problem with my Mitsubishi WD-52525. For what it is worth I want to thank all of you for probably saving me countless hours of head and heart ache! Having followed this thread I have a really good idea what I need to do to get the appropriate service for my TV.
The problem: out of the blue turn on the TV and get rapidly flickering horizontal lines to such a degree that the picture image (in this case a dvd movie menu) is unreadable. I don't have cable/satellite, etc. so the only use my TV has gotten since the purchase date has been movie watching (5 to 10 hours per week...maybe). Based on what I've read I'll have an ASC check out the problem, contact Mitsubishi and send them all my documentation....certainly sounds like the "chassis" issue that has been discussed here. I'm confident that this forum has saved me a great deal of time...Thank You!
Well, turns out the fix was easy. The tech came out and took the TV apart and re-assembled the ballast connector. The "plugs" had just broken away from their metal clip. Worked like a charm.
But, the previous symptoms of the flicker and the lamp not coming on all the time continued. So, I replaced the generic lamp they stuck in the TV with my replacement from Mitsu. Since replacing the lamp the flicker has gone and the lamp comes on the first time every time.
I ended up ordering the ballast just in case a few weeks ago. Turns out I don't need it but, I'll likely keep it on hand "just in case".
Did you ask the source or what "generic" means? If it was the original Osram lamp from a reputable supplier, there should be no problem. You can buy the exact lamp that Mitsubishi uses without the housing from a number of suppliers. There are also replacements that are not the original Osram lamp or that might be a similar Osram product. It is rarely advisable to use a Philips or other lamp that is not the original part. There is nothing wrong with using the same lamp from another vendor, however. The markings on the outside of the lamp reflector are quite clear and one should always verify that they are the same when using a lamp from a vendor other than the maker of the TV.
There are no markings on the lamp or housing identifying a manufacturer. So, I'm assuming it's some cheapo "generic" type.
I didn't pay for this lamp however. Back in April when I got my blinking green light because of the chassis cap problem my extended warranty people authorized replacing the blown lamp along with the rebuild. So, it's the lamp and housing that the ASC provided.
I did make a stink about it though when the TV went in the second time for the lamp not coming on all the time and the flickering. In that case the ASC determined it was the lamp but, the extended warranty folks declined replacing it since it was a consumable part. And, the ASC people were saying that the lamp only had a 30 or 60 day warranty, I forget which but, either was it was past the period according to them.
Back in February when I had the 4000 hour warning come on I bought a new Mitsu lamp and housing from Anderson TV but, based on feedback I got in this topic I didn't replace that lamp with the new one and waited for the existing one to go out. But, the BLoD happened and the lamp was replaced with this "generic" one.
So, I just replaced it with the new one I got in Feb.
I have never seen a lamp with no identification on the top of the back of the reflector. It can be hard to see with the housing on, but it is always there.
I would not recommend dealing with any servicer who offers only a 30-60 day warranty and uses generic lamps. It is easy to find the original lamp from vendors offering a 1 year warranty.
Lamp warranties do not cover damaged lamps due to a bad ballast, however, so this is always an issue. It is hard to know when you have a bad ballast.
I always recommend using the NEW lamp and keeping the old one for a spare if it still works. This way, you get the benefit of your warranty if the new lamp is bad. You also get the benefit of the brighter picture.
You should always ask. Many warranty administrators will respect your desire to use a preferred local servicer. We get calls all the time from warranty companies when a client does not want to use one of their servicers.
It is always a good idea to know the servicers in your area. It is a good way to help decide which product or warranty to buy. The best servicers usually don't mess with the manufacturers or warranty companies that are shady.
Good to know if there's a next time. Other than this lamp issue the ASC has been very good. They've worked around my schedule, were prompt, and while servicing it gave the TV a good cleaning.
well, this has been educational, but not the news I wanted to hear. I had the extended warranty on a wd-52525 and used it once about a year in and the "formatter board" was replaced. Didn't renew this past May for about $400 and wish I did (especially knowing I would need at least a lamp). If I came here first I would have, just to avoid the hassle.
Started having the nothing but some faint lines problem that eventually went to solid red lamp light. So ordered and replaced lamp (first one in 4 years). Green light, no lines or any picture, 2 minutes later red lamp solid.
I chatted with a nice support person on the sight I got the lamp and through my suggestion of other reading we decided it was likely the ballast. They said it would be easy to replace but as I investigated it is now taking the back off (they assumed I had to do that for the lamp, but no). As I searched for more info I came to this nice informative place.
3 questions on the process of trying to get the chasis rebuilt -
1) should I attempt the ballast first for $60 + sh - is it at all a chance that is it?
2) Is there any way Mit. would let me pull the chasis and send it to them (without the diagnosis etc.)?
3) My service contract was through Best Buy - assuming I need a diagnosis, any reason to not just use them?
I'll add on to my own reply...
I tried re-seating the lamp to make sure it was tight, and seemed no different. I got solid red lamp light after 2 minutes. So I checked the code and got a 34 - general lamp malfunction (which I suppose just means the red light is on). The solid red lamp light is where it had gotten to before replacing the lamp, so foolish me thought oh good, its just the lamp which was due soon and I can do that replacement. But the first symptoms were turn on and see wavy line distorted picture, similar to before formatter board was replaced under warranty. Red lamp light came after a few days of that.
So thought I would add that to make sure I'm in the same bad place as others or maybe just need a ballast.
I don't know Mitsubishi's policy on chassis rebuilds direct to consumers. I do know that if you expect any accomodation out of customer relations you will have to have it evaluated by an ASC.
You could have the problem with the swollen caps in the PS, or a bad ballast. Either way you will need the chassis rebuild, as the lines in the pix are likely the FMT board.
I'm back now to document the remainder of my saga with a bulleted recap of my journey:
ASC comes to house and does diagnosis - says it's the light engine.
I discuss the chasis rebuild etc which he disagrees will help and end up with "give me an estimate I will contact Mitsubishi".:dontknow:
Estimate is $450. I pay $100 for service call.:spend:
I contact Mitsubishi and open the case, I fax paperwork, they talk to ASC, estimate changes to chasis rebuild - $350 for ASC labor (less $100 paid), Mitsubishi free including shipping), Mitsubishi authorizes. :clap:
ASC arranges p/u and says $315 (+$65 for s/h), argue and they agree balance will be $250. ASC comes out pulls chasis and light engine (since thinks that is still the problem).
Have to deal with ASC and Mitsubishi to help coordinate getting shipping box sent to ASC.
ASC calls to report they will not let him ship the light engine with chasis.
Some difficulty getting status from ASC or Mitsubishi, but find out chasis was received and later find out chasis shipped back. About 4 weeks end to end. :foottap:
ASC installs chasis (and light engine) - picture has returned!:clap:
ASC says $315 please, argue, call supervisor, oh here it is - Mitsubishi paid s/h :doh:, pay $250. :spend:
I resist urge to taunt ASC over "what happened to its the light engine?":whistling:
1 1/2 days later get call at work from home - tv has gray and white rectangles on whole screen! :unbelievable:
Research on forums and realize this is another symptom of faulty cap problem. Can't fault Mitsubishi or ASC as it did work initially. Maybe it was the light engine too...
Call ASC, they contact Mitsubishi, Mitsubishi contacts me.
Mitsubishi offers replacement tv - WD-60737 (they still have a strong line of lower cost home theatre TVs that are DLP). So this is effectively equivalent current year model, 52" to 60".:bigsmile:
I inquire about upgraded model, quoted to pay difference on retail effectively (like $2K to go to 80"!).:rolleyesno:
Accept offer, they arrange one company to pickup old tv for scrap and company to deliver new tv - all free of charge.
Say it will take 2 - 3 weeks just to process paperwork, but pickup and delivery get arranged for same day in about 2 weeks.:bigsmile:
The new TV is beautiful. Larger screen, smaller footprint (but not wall mountable). Has many similar features but missing some from old TV (like no PIP and no PC connector). It is 3D ready which I will probably never use.
But I am happy with the final outcome of my saga. I had written off Mitsubishi from future purchases based on the poor design/parts that went into this line causing so many problems, but... they recognized their mistake, stepped up to try and correct it beyond warranty, were relatively easy to deal with, and ended up making it right without a legal obligation to do so. I will continue to buy their products based on that.
I also really appreciate the help I recieved on this and other forums and hope telling my saga will help others with their adventures.
The V26 chassis, which included your set, was really the only troubled product that Mitsubishi has had in their DLP lines. Compared to others the sets have been very well built and reliable. I don't know of another manufacturer that would give you a new set under these conditions on a 4 year old product. They have had their problems but overall the build quality in their products is quite good.
Well, it finally happened. My TV showed the blue screen of death and died; again. The chassis was rebuilt with defective caps in March of 2009 and this past Sunday she died. Now I get to start the process wth Customer Service about getting a replacement TV. Whoohoo. Good thing I saved all my receipts and letters from my initial 60 day ordeal along with my posts on the board (ktr).
Make notes about every contact and provide complete and organized documentation, be reasonable, patient, and clear about what you think is fair. Mitsubishi has been responsive with respect to these problems in the past. I have not done business with them in a while and am not sure how structural changes in the company are affecting customer relations, but you have nothing to do but try.
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