Mitsubishi WD-52725 do you lose sound when the lamp goes?

**ScofieldKjv** · **10-11-09, 01:01 PM**

Yesterday my TV picture went away, I knew my lamp didn't have a lot of time left on it, but I also lost sound.

I have had a bulb go before but I don't recall losing sound.

I had a new bulb on hand, but one without a cage where I had to pull the old buld out and insert the new in the cage. We did this and when we put the lamp back in the screen came up green and flickered real bad; I shut the TV down and when I turned it back on I got no picture at all. It was late and I was tired so I went to bed. Today I can't get the TV on at all and it appears the lamp light is red, meaning bad lamp.

Any thoughts would be gretly appreciated.

Thank you.

**lcaillo** · **10-11-09, 01:28 PM**

A common mistake when installing these lamps is to push the connector out of its mount in the set. Remove the lamp and look to see if this has happened.

**ScofieldKjv** · **10-11-09, 03:08 PM**

Well it looks like we may have bigger issues. Like I say, when we first put in the new lamp the screen came up green and flickered really fast and no sound. We decided to put the old lamp in, now questioning if it was actually bad, it does look ok. When we brought the TV back up it came up blue and flickered really fast.

When turning off an on again, just trying and hoping, one time it came up red flickering, other times it would power off before coming up and change the lamp light from yellow to red, meaning bad lamp, which I have a hard time believing.

As for pushing the connection out of mount as suggested above, I don't see how this is possible because it appears to be a solid piece in the TV.

Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

**lcaillo** · **10-11-09, 08:08 PM**

Given that virtually every one of these sets has hundreds of bad capacitors, if you have never had the chassis rebuilt by Mitsubishi, you likely have a problem beyond the lamp.

What supplier did you use for your lamp?

With respect to the lamp socket, I have repaired many of these where the client has pushed out the connector. It is unlikely that you would get an image at all if this was the case, particularly the second time you installed the lamp. It is NOT a solid mount. It is held in by a very soft clip on the back side of the lamp chamber.

**ScofieldKjv** · **10-11-09, 08:38 PM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

Given that virtually every one of these sets has hundreds of bad capacitors, if you have never had the chassis rebuilt by Mitsubishi, you likely have a problem beyond the lamp.

What supplier did you use for your lamp?

With respect to the lamp socket, I have repaired many of these where the client has pushed out the connector. It is unlikely that you would get an image at all if this was the case, particularly the second time you installed the lamp. It is NOT a solid mount. It is held in by a very soft clip on the back side of the lamp chamber.

Thank you for the replies. We have never had our TV repaired/rebuilt before. We purchased the lamp from dlplampxpress.

I agree that it is unlikey yhe lamp if we get flickering screens; I should also mention that if I turn up the volume, though nothing is heard, I can faintly see the vmlume level on the screen in all the flickering.

It appears I will either have to have someone come out or take my TV in for repair. We are in a tough spot because we'd rather not put a lot of money into the TV, as I'd rather have a newer one anyways, BUT we really don't have the dollars right now to be spending on a new TV.

**lcaillo** · **10-12-09, 06:43 AM**

Contact a Mitsubishi authorized servicer and have them give you an estimate. Then contact Mits customer relations and request some accomodation due to the excessive cost and the fact that the problem have been pervasive and the set did not last as expected. They have often covered the cost of the chassis rebuild, if that is what it needs. I have seen this symptom several times with problems due to the many bad capacitors.

**ScofieldKjv** · **10-12-09, 09:26 AM**

Thank you for the great advice; I called in for service this morning, so we'll see what they find. Unless a sooner time opens up, it'll be a several days before they can get here.

**ScofieldKjv** · **10-15-09, 11:24 AM**

Well the repair guys were just here, and took my TV. They quickly diagnosed it as the "digital module" (?), I believe they called it. When I asked on the cost they said they didn't know, they could have a used one too. Any guesses on the cost? They did say that these rarely go out.

**lcaillo** · **10-15-09, 01:55 PM**

Quote:

ScofieldKjv wrote:

Well the repair guys were just here, and took my TV. They quickly diagnosed it as the "digital module" (?), I believe they called it. When I asked on the cost they said they didn't know, they could have a used one too. Any guesses on the cost? They did say that these rarely go out.

Wrong! These fail all the time. Insist on an estimate to have Mits rebuild the entire chassis. This is the only acceptable way to fix these.
Posted via Mobile Device

**ScofieldKjv** · **10-15-09, 01:58 PM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

Wrong! These fail all the time. Insist on an estimate to have Mits rebuild the entire chassis. This is the only acceptable way to fix these.
Posted via Mobile Device

What does "rebild the chasis" entail? I may have mis-heard him on the rarely fail thing. The guy I was talking with was clearly very knowledgeable and compent on the issue, as we discussed other TV aspects.

**lcaillo** · **10-15-09, 02:34 PM**

These sets have all of the boards except the DMD board (part of the light engine) and the ballast enclosed in a shield case. All 5 boards make up the main chassis. The initial intent was that the chassis not be a field repair item and the whole thing would be replaced. This proved to be very expensive and board level repair was done, but it is impossible to do more than guess based on symptoms which board is bad. The boards are sandwiched together so that you cannot get to them to do proper troubleshooting. Over time it became apparent that many of the problems were obviously bad capacitors and many were fixed by replacing bulging caps or just the board if the symptoms led you to one. These fixes turned out to be a short term solution, as there are dozens, perhaps hundreds of bad caps in the chassis, both surface mount and radial mount. Mitsubishi has had a rebuild program for about two years where they start by replacing a couple hundred caps before even troubleshooting and testing the boards. They rebuild the entire chassis and warranty it for 1 year. They have replaced many sets for clients with repeat problems with these chassis.

Your servicer may be very knowledgeable in general, but has not serviced many of these sets if he does not know better than to try to change a DM board. He simply has not done his homework, or he is trying to make a profit by providing you less than the best service. You can be assured of other problems if he does, and the cost of the DM is more than the cost of an entire rebuilt chassis, if they even sell it seperately any more. If you contact Mitsubishi customer relations with the estimate, they will likely do the chassis repair at no charge and you may only be responsible for the servicer's labor to pull and reinstall it. They have done this for many clients in the past. Of course, many servicers would rather make the profit on selling you the board so they do not like to point you in the direction of customer relations.

It takes an experienced tech about 45 minutes to remove or reinstall the chassis. Someone who has never done it before could easily take two or three times as long. The data needs to be copied from the extra EEPROM in the engine when it is replaced to assure the right settings in the service menu.

**ScofieldKjv** · **10-15-09, 02:59 PM**

So does my board have to be pulled and sent to Mitsu for the rebuild or how does it work?

**lcaillo** · **10-15-09, 08:28 PM**

The chassis needs to be removed and sent to Mitsubishi for rebuilding. You will likely get a different rebuilt chassis back.

**ScofieldKjv** · **10-16-09, 10:41 AM**

I got the call and they said they need to replace the switch mode power supply, my total is $402, this includes a $70 fee I paid to have them come to my house.

**lcaillo** · **10-16-09, 04:05 PM**

The power supply is part of the chassis and one of the five boards with extensive problems with bad caps. There is rarely a reason to replace the power supply, as they are easily repaired compared to the other boards in the set. It is the one that is relatively easy to get to to troubleshoot. You have a lazy and poorly informed servicer. As I said before, have them give you an estimate to have Mitsubishi rebuild the chassis then call customer relations. Any other course of action would be foolish. This is a very common situation on these models.

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