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Need advize matching subwoofer for Klipsch Palladium P17

21K views 90 replies 10 participants last post by  etc6849 
#1 ·
I need a proven design with plans to match Klipsch Palladium 5.1 set.
60% music, 40% movie.

Right now i am using 2 Klipsch RSW-12 stated 22Hz but i am only getting 30hz in my 1800cufeet home theatre.
As a test i used a cheap Klipsch Sw-115 an its flat to 16Hz but to be honest not veryy musical.

So i am interested in a verry musical sub that works for home theatre as well...best of two worlds, i gues...

Thanks!
 
#30 ·
No you need four....lol. You will be happy with two ......for now. :D I had so many subs over the years that its amazing what I want now and in the beginning are completely different.

Unless the T/S has changed 4cuft would be a good volume for mechanical protection and sound. If you went larger you would have a lower F3 and need less power but lose some of the mechanical protection. But with EQ I would stick with a better mechanical protection volume and EQ for your wants. Hope this makes sense.
 
#32 ·
No the sound will be the same with EQ. BUT without EQ there maybe a slightly different sound with a bigger verse smaller cabinet. But in saying that when adding in EQ and room gain it is extremely hard to hear, almost impossible, the difference between the same driver in a 4cuft enclosure verse 5cuft.

But seeing you want this more for music I think the 4cuft will be a perfect combination for you.
 
#34 ·
Remember these drivers have a huge mechanical excursion so its hard to just blow them up in a bigger cabinet by only 2cuft more.

8cuft F3 32hz
6cuft F3 32.5hz
4cuft F3 34hz

Now the 8cuft enclosure will take about 600watts to hit Xmax. To push the 4cuft enclosure to Xmax you need 1375watts. With 1375 watts in the 4cuft cabinet the 4cuft beats the 8cuft from 15hz and up. At about 40hz the 4cuft enclosure is up 3db on the 8cuft one.

So with only using RMS power the 8cuft wins. But when using more power to hit Xmax in the smaller enclosure the 4cuft is the better option. It only loses to the 8cuft lower than 15hz. I'll post a sim soon.
 
#39 ·
So,

I've got the P37's with the P17's rear.

I'm using a couple of sealed Velodyne SPL series subs. SPL 1200's to be exact. About a decade old, but I had one, wanted to add a second and it was reasonable on fleabay. They do a pretty nice job, that said if they were slightly snappier and slightly quicker they would be even better. But being sealed that helps a lot. I would not use a ported design with these for sure. I only have a 2000 sqft room so pressure levels are a non issue with two of these subs.

I've had the opportunity to hear a rhythmik subwoofer a couple times. I think their sealed 12's or 15's would be a real nice match (with the added bonus you could get a sliver woofer to basically match if you go sans grills and with front firing subs). I wish rythmik made a sealed downfiring 12. (I have a bunch of kids). My room is also good for a downfiring as it's a finished basement and ultimately carpet and padding over concrete.

I also feel the paradigm sub 12's would be a solid match as they are snappy and hit hard and fast.

A big bloated ported design would be a poor match with the palladiums for sure.
 
#41 ·
Sorry for not posting sooner. I had a large post that some how got deleted by my internet not working properly. AARRGGHH.

I think that if you want a subwoofer that is capable of measuring up to the finest speakers then sealed is the way to go. You will need more speakers than a ported design but in my opinion surpasses ported in OVERALL quality of sound for music and movies. That being said I also do like the horn sub designs also. Now if this sub was just for movies then that changes things.

A LLT is great for movies I believe but not to my liking for much else. I am a firm believer in have 3-120hz capable systems at reference for my HT. So that means they need to get down low with authority and play well for music. SO sealed is the only way for me because of size constraints. If I had access to cheaper quality drivers I would just buy four 15's to start in dual opposed cabinets. Then if I needed more buy another four.

Just a matter of opinion here is all. If you want simplicity then a pair of sealed 18's is a good start. If you want to get to 3-120 like me then start off with a pair of subs you like that are small and then keep adding more till your happy. Will cost more in the end but then you have everything possible on a soundtrack covered. Chasing what we want can get costly. I have chased for a while and changed out way to many subs.

SO being that you ordered a pair of SI 18'a already I suggest building a sealed enclosure and then tryout a ported one if you want. But I still would suggest if you think you are lacking in anything just add another pair of 18's and call it a day. Four dual opposed sealed 18's would sound AWESOME. It would be easy to match up with almost any type of speaker.

Then after this if you want to dabble in other types of builds I would suggest a horned sub for fun. Large but very impressive. 17hz and up fully capable horned 15" would take about two or more sealed 18's to compare. The 18's would probably go lower but after 20hz usually no contest . The horned sub wins.

SO sealed cabinet with plenty of power. Inuke 3000 or other and a good external EQ. If on a budget just get the amp and wait on the external EQ.
 
#43 ·
I dont think we can pick a tuning that says it will sound bloated. JBL has done plenty of testing on their speakers and having very large main speakers tuned to 40-45hz sounds awesome if done correctly. Tuning to 12hz like an LLT sounds great also but I much prefer a sealed for music. If a pair of mains that can play down to 25-30hz(such as ones ported at 45) then an LLT would be great if they have the room. SO many ways to go about it. Sounding bloated is just a poor design is all with any type of alignment. Sealed, ported, horned or other can all sound slow, muddy and or "bloated." And dont forget the room will also have a lot to do with the sound.
 
#44 ·
chrapladm,

What you wrote was exactly what i tought (and hoped) you would say, so i am defnitly on the good way and think the two sealed si 18 are going to amaze me with something i never heart before...later on i can always at another two, we will see, room is only 1800 cufeet...

What do you recommend for equalisation?
 
#45 ·
I like the MiniDSP myself. You can buy the kit form or buy the unit that is all put together. I, myself, am going to buy the OpenDRC-AN or Di. I like the fact that I can buy this unit and not need anything else like a wall wart or anything to use it. They have the most BW of adjustment that I know of and reasonably priced. You can also get the kit form for half the cost. Others also like the Behringer DCX2496. I just like the looks and abilities of the MiniDSPS over the Behringer. They are both very capable at being amazing external EQ's. Cant go wrong with either of them.
 
#47 ·
I'm a huge Crest fan so I can only give praise about any of their products. I have never used their CPX lineup though. I have used their 200 series, CA, CC and waiting on a Pro lite. I am still trying to also get a CM 8 channel and a PA150 but have to wait for available funds. I will look into it and see what I can dig up about the CPX.
 
#50 · (Edited)
Well i still dont decided on the amps.

I ordered the d2's so i,think i have to go with two amps, each channel for one 4ohm load.

With two amps the budget comes in mind also...

Maybe two behringer inuke 3000, perhaps the eq in the behringer is sufficent enough to start without minidsp? Or EPX4000, i dont know.
Could the EPX4000 run 4 si18 in bridge mode?

I also could use a sunfire subwoofer amp from the sunfire subrosa sub laying around by a friend. Its rated 2700 watt and has automatic eq build in. Not sure if it could handle 4 si18's?

Anny help is much appreciated!
 
#52 ·
I myself like the idea of a pair of Inuke 3000dsp. If not a single 6000 is also plenty. But remember you need about 2400watts available for these four subs. I would always recommend having double but at least having RMS would be a good start. If using any of the other amps I would get a pair of EP2000's. 4000 doesn't do any more than the 2000.

So all this being said if budget is tight just start off with a single Inuke3000dsp and you set. You can wire your subs in 2ohm stereo, 4ohm stereo, 4ohm bridged or even 8ohm bridged. So your able to do whatever wiring you want.
 
#54 ·
I would buy a pair of EP2000's and a minidsp. Don't forget the fan mod on the amps. Not expensive but a definite if your amps are in the same room as you.
 
#56 ·
Sorry for the delay I thought I sent the response. 2x4 balanced would be nice with a 2 way advanced plugin.
 
#58 ·
Oh and forgot to mention that if you want to use only one input and output the same to all 4 then the 4 way plugin is what you want. But if you have two separate sub inputs then 2way advanced is what you want.
 
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