Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

What size of Nail gun for box build

Tags
build nail size
20K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  bambino 
#1 ·
Hey everybody, I have a quick question that I can't seem to find a lot of information on. I have a sub project in the works as well as some other furniture pieces I plan on building. For the sub box at least I will be using Baltic Birch 3/4" probably 13 ply. I was just curious what gauge of finish nailer would be sufficient. I did some searching but didn't come up with anything specific and the manufacturers just seem to use very general recommendations. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.
 
#2 ·
Personally, I would never use nails to build a sub, but thats a personal choice. I just dont think they will hold anywhere near as well as screws, but I guess with glue as well nails could work well.

Probably not the input you were looking for, but you now have one opinion to work with :T
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the input. I will definitely be using glue as the main source of adhering the panels the nails would essentially be my clamp. I do see where your coming from and appreciate your opinion but for the moment what I have access too is a brad nailer and 15, 16 ga finish nailers or even a stapler. I would love to use nice quality wood clamps that are big enough for me but just don't have the cash to spend on it at the moment. I have to make due with what I have hehe. Thanks again.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#4 ·
I think people generally use a 16-18 ga finish/brad nailers/staplers. The main thing is will it go into the wood without distorting, splitting or shooting out the side. If I were you I'd do some test joints with the plywood and see what happens. Should work alright on mdf, too. It won't make the joint very rigid from the beginning, I'd only rely on them for simulating clamping pressure, not any kind of bending on the joint.
 
#5 ·
I would steer clear of the nail gun thing all together, they split MDF if they go in at all and just kind of more of a pain in the long run. I know it seems like it would be quicker (which it would) but you don't want to end up with splits all along your seems as i would assume would cause resonance and panel vibrations. Car audio fabricators do it all the time but i'd hate to know what the end results are. As i always say to my buddys when they ask how i tell them ''glue it and screw it''.
 
#7 ·
Not to start a war here but this debate could go on like the audio cable thread. The screws also have a significant role in holding the box togather. Think not and build a high powerd sub with just glue and watch the thing blow apart, just my experiance.
 
#8 ·
LOL we both know there was more to it than not using screws. I've never used screws in any joints before. Titebond is very strong stuff If you don't use some bracing you may have issues, but as long as you have some bracing you're not blowing the box apart.
 
#10 ·
For a sub you can get away with 5 ply. Though I still prefer 11 or greater. I suggest using screws rather than nails. You'll need to pre-drill the holes, but it will net you a better result in the long run. It really ends up being easier to use screws. Though I'd prefer using biscuits or dowels and clamps. Lining up a joint is probably the most troublesome part of building speakers.
 
#12 ·
Wow, didn't mean to start a debate here hehe. I understand people's concern about the nailer but I don't really intend on using the screw/nailer/stapler as anything but a clamp for the glue. I will more than likely use Titebond III and that stuff should be stonger than the ply once properly cured. Bracing will also be used. I do plan on using 13 ply baltic birch, its the best I've found locally so far, still need to check the lumber yard this weekend. I do appreciate everyone's opinions and suggestions on the matter. I will probably test out both methods just to see if there is a huge difference. What would be a good screw for birch?
 
#13 ·
No debate, just different opinions? About your screw question you could use anything from expensive subfloor screws to cheapy drywall screws thats really a matter of preferance, i use what ever flavor i have on hand. Oh and do not forget to predrill also the screws will pull the wood together better then a nailer, acting more like a clamp. Hope all this helps in your build and it turns out great.
 
#14 ·
Titebond has been demonstrated to have 1500 lbs of strength in a loose joint. IOTW You will break the wood before you break the glue. It is the strongest glue according to Fine Woodworking's torsion tests. screws add strength depending on their configuration, but they aren't as strong as Titebond.
 
#19 ·
Funny,LOL. You must be how old? I've been wood working my whole breathing life, in fact it's in my blood from family generation after generation and it's also common knowledge that a screw will add strength to a joint if done properly. Let me know when you've got your facts to prove me wrong.

Oh, just gotta add. So when i build my kids playhouse this summer it will be fine to just use exterior glue then?
 
#21 ·
Obviously building a home or playhouse has many more variables to consider than a relatively small rectangular box. I would like to see what a clamp made for house building would look like though hehe.

I understand you like to use screws and that's great but I feel there are other ways to build a box as evident in the subwoofer build threads. Does it make one person right and one person wrong? Not at all. I think there are different methods to attain the same goal. I appreciate your opinion but I'm pretty confident the glue will be enough and the nails will just be icing on the cake. If I'm wrong and my sub literally blows apart I will get pics for you guys to see the aftermath :bigsmile:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top