I have checked on the 'black diamond II' and was wondering if something like that couldn't be build by DIY. In Germany there's also a new darkgray screen out called 'blackscreen' developed by cinema4home with a Munsell gray of around N2.5 and a gain of 0.3...
They got a youtube video but I can't post the link to it yet. There is a link to it on their website or search on youtube for blackscreen...
Some background on my planned setup:
-will buy Acer P1100 (2600 Lumen, Eco 2080, Contrast 4000:1, DLP) (yeah I know it's not the best for HT but it's cheap and I need it for business presentations, too. 10yrs ago in university we watched movies with much worse pjs...)
-Distance to screen 3.6 meters, screen size max 88'' (179x135 cm)
-Living room with much ambient light (large north window), white walls and ceiling
-Screen material will be coated HDF 5mm board or uncoated MDF 10 mm board. (Paint must be rolled on, I have no place where I could spray it)
The calculator (hcinema) shows me for the Acer P1100 and a 88'' screen with 1.0 gain:
Lux:1070 Lux
max room lights : 214 lux
candela per m2: 339 cd/m2
foot lamberts: 99 fL (way too much even when on eco)
for a 0.3 gain screen:
Lux: 321 Lux
max Room: 64 lux
Candela: 103 cd/m2
foot Lambert: 30 fL (almost like a CRT TV, eco mode should still be possible)
I looked at the Caparol neutral grays:
-3d granit 5 (L30 C00 H000) approx. N2 with 0.06 gain
-3d granit 15 (L45 C00 H000) approx. N3 with 0.15 gain
(N levels guessed compared with the colors a NCS to RGB calculator shows)
I also looked into mixing the neutralgray myself and came up with two grays in the reach of a backlit LCD showing black (N3.5) and a CRT Trinitron TV showing black (N 2.5-4 depending on how much white is in the picture):
Neutralgray approx Munsell N3.0 (CMYK=70,70,70,0; RGB=76,76,76)
Neutralgray approx Munsell N2.5 (CMYK=75,75,75,0; RGB=64,64,64)
(CMY without K because that's how grays are defined when doing designs for printmedia, the gray must only come from the 3 basic colors. That's the silver fire approach with mixing the basic colors to gray)
The problem with this approach is that even professional printers need to raise the M level to match a perfect neutral gray according to the manufacturer of the paints. The basic colors from marabu i.e. which are widely available need another mixture than the colors of another manufacturer. So this approach is something for someone who got a spectrometer or get's the exact colors from the excact manufacturer for a mix that was spectrogrammed.
So here is what I'm thinking about, please correct me if I'm mistaken
Solution A:
BW with AAA fine but with a darker base color
According to the NCS color code bermuda beige is NCS S0907-y70r, the first two numbers are for the blacklevel so a NCS 7507-y70r (RGB: 4D413C) 4:1 BW mix with this should result in a N2.5-3.5 Munsell neutral gray (depending on how the AAA fine influences the gray level in such a dark base color)
Solution B:
BW with AAA fine standard base color and a N2.5 neutralgray in a 2:1:2 mix
This would be 2 parts bermuda beige + 1 part AAA fine + NCS 7500 N until you like the gray (1-2 parts). The problem with this mix should be, the more neutral gray you add the more the spectrum will suffer. The result should be a slighty off neutralgray.
Solution C:
The same like Solution A but in a 3:1 mix (or even 2:1) to enhance the gain.
The NCS S7507-Y70R mix contains much black and will practically 'eat light', so to bring back the gain level up to around 0.3 more AAA fine should be needed. There are some BW 3:1 mixes out there so I'm not sure if adding more AAA fine won't mess up the result. The spectrum shouldn't suffer IMHO by adding more than 3:1 AAA fine.
Has anyone tried a BW N3 yet? I've also read the Elektra approach, but there are too many colors being added, so I'd prefer one of the above BW solutions to keep it simple and easy to rebuild by others all over the world, where specific paint brands might not be available.
Best regards!
Darker_plz
ps:
Should I use flat Latexpaint as base or flat enamel (both waterbased of course)
pps: Thank you to all of you for the great informations on how to mix paints for DIY screens:clap:
They got a youtube video but I can't post the link to it yet. There is a link to it on their website or search on youtube for blackscreen...
Some background on my planned setup:
-will buy Acer P1100 (2600 Lumen, Eco 2080, Contrast 4000:1, DLP) (yeah I know it's not the best for HT but it's cheap and I need it for business presentations, too. 10yrs ago in university we watched movies with much worse pjs...)
-Distance to screen 3.6 meters, screen size max 88'' (179x135 cm)
-Living room with much ambient light (large north window), white walls and ceiling
-Screen material will be coated HDF 5mm board or uncoated MDF 10 mm board. (Paint must be rolled on, I have no place where I could spray it)
The calculator (hcinema) shows me for the Acer P1100 and a 88'' screen with 1.0 gain:
Lux:1070 Lux
max room lights : 214 lux
candela per m2: 339 cd/m2
foot lamberts: 99 fL (way too much even when on eco)
for a 0.3 gain screen:
Lux: 321 Lux
max Room: 64 lux
Candela: 103 cd/m2
foot Lambert: 30 fL (almost like a CRT TV, eco mode should still be possible)
I looked at the Caparol neutral grays:
-3d granit 5 (L30 C00 H000) approx. N2 with 0.06 gain
-3d granit 15 (L45 C00 H000) approx. N3 with 0.15 gain
(N levels guessed compared with the colors a NCS to RGB calculator shows)
I also looked into mixing the neutralgray myself and came up with two grays in the reach of a backlit LCD showing black (N3.5) and a CRT Trinitron TV showing black (N 2.5-4 depending on how much white is in the picture):
Neutralgray approx Munsell N3.0 (CMYK=70,70,70,0; RGB=76,76,76)
Neutralgray approx Munsell N2.5 (CMYK=75,75,75,0; RGB=64,64,64)
(CMY without K because that's how grays are defined when doing designs for printmedia, the gray must only come from the 3 basic colors. That's the silver fire approach with mixing the basic colors to gray)
The problem with this approach is that even professional printers need to raise the M level to match a perfect neutral gray according to the manufacturer of the paints. The basic colors from marabu i.e. which are widely available need another mixture than the colors of another manufacturer. So this approach is something for someone who got a spectrometer or get's the exact colors from the excact manufacturer for a mix that was spectrogrammed.
So here is what I'm thinking about, please correct me if I'm mistaken
Solution A:
BW with AAA fine but with a darker base color
According to the NCS color code bermuda beige is NCS S0907-y70r, the first two numbers are for the blacklevel so a NCS 7507-y70r (RGB: 4D413C) 4:1 BW mix with this should result in a N2.5-3.5 Munsell neutral gray (depending on how the AAA fine influences the gray level in such a dark base color)
Solution B:
BW with AAA fine standard base color and a N2.5 neutralgray in a 2:1:2 mix
This would be 2 parts bermuda beige + 1 part AAA fine + NCS 7500 N until you like the gray (1-2 parts). The problem with this mix should be, the more neutral gray you add the more the spectrum will suffer. The result should be a slighty off neutralgray.
Solution C:
The same like Solution A but in a 3:1 mix (or even 2:1) to enhance the gain.
The NCS S7507-Y70R mix contains much black and will practically 'eat light', so to bring back the gain level up to around 0.3 more AAA fine should be needed. There are some BW 3:1 mixes out there so I'm not sure if adding more AAA fine won't mess up the result. The spectrum shouldn't suffer IMHO by adding more than 3:1 AAA fine.
Has anyone tried a BW N3 yet? I've also read the Elektra approach, but there are too many colors being added, so I'd prefer one of the above BW solutions to keep it simple and easy to rebuild by others all over the world, where specific paint brands might not be available.
Best regards!
Darker_plz
ps:
Should I use flat Latexpaint as base or flat enamel (both waterbased of course)
pps: Thank you to all of you for the great informations on how to mix paints for DIY screens:clap: