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Looking to build a 10" sub - suggestions welcome

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10" build
4K views 20 replies 4 participants last post by  Mike P. 
#1 ·
Hello forum, I am looking to build my second DIY sub, this one will be used in a bedroom system and size (small) will be as important as sound quality.

My last DIY sub was a 260L Sonosub with a 15" SS driver that I am still using in my main system and I am still very happy with its performance. I built that sub several years ago and have since been away from any serious audio related endeavors so my knowledge of all the latest trends and hardware is now limited .

The reason for this build is that I recently purchased some Sonos wireless kit and have the ZP120 zone player in the bedroom powering a small set of Boston acoustic bookshelf speakers but I would like to have some extra bottom to compliment the small speakers.

The build has be relatively small but I have some room to move but the WAF is a restriction I must adhere to somewhat. Having said that I may use the the "beg for forgiveness rather than ask for permission" rule, LOL.

Some things to keep in mind:

1. this sub will be used in a low power 100% music system so I was leaning toward a small sealed 10". The Sonos ZP120 is a 55watt/ch amplifier with an auto detect sub out that has a set X-over of 80hz.
2. Space and WAF is important as well as fit and finish.
3. Budget is under $1000CDN.
4. Room size is 16' x 22'

Thanks, all suggestions welcome.
 
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#2 ·
I'd get a pair of SDX10s in passive radiator alignments. Two subs for musical room response.

Nice move on the sonos stuff... it sounds great IMO.
 
#12 ·
Ok I have a model created but I notice in the model you created the SPL numbers up the left side are all + numbers, mine are - db, is this a parameter change somewhere in the software.

Also, I am changing the power levels on the signal tab but I see no change in the model when doing so, is there a reason for this, am I doing something wrong.
 
#20 ·
So if I go with a slot port the dimensions that I select in WinISD.....are those internal dimensions of the port or outside dimensions?

Also, how is the internal volume calculated with respect to the port and driver. Do you need to add the volume that each internal component displaces. I other words, for the port, do I just add the volume that the wood itself (if building custom slot port) takes up or do I calculate the the total volume that the constructed port displaces as if it were a solid piece of material with no whole through the center. This is hard to explain, hope what I asked makes sense.
 
#21 ·
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