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10K views 35 replies 8 participants last post by  Prof. 
#1 ·
Three weeks ago I moved to a country region called Finniss..
Finniss is located approx.100K. south east of Adelaide, near the south coast and it's a wine producing area..

I have a 3 bedroom caretaker cottage situated on an 80 acre vineyard property..
My nearest neighbours are about 500 metres. away to the left, and about 1K.across the river in front of me..So I won't be having any problems with the neighbours when it comes to sound from the theatre.:bigsmile:

The house design has a large living area in open plan style, combining living/dining and kitchen..
Unfortunately, whilst this would have given me a large area for the theatre, every wall has either a large window area or doorways off to the adjoining rooms..
I had to settle for one of the bedrooms for the theatre...the largest being 10'x15' with 7'8" ceilings..
I was very apprehensive about the size of the room, as this is considerably smaller than my previous theatre and I had some concerns that it would not perform as well as previously...

After 2 weeks of moving everything in, it was time to start on the theatre...
Below is what the room looked like..The wall colour was not as nice as the camera shows..
Don't you love the yellow ceiling :sick:

The first job was to paint the walls and ceiling, and lay down some carpet..
I had been given some carpet by a friend of mine who was renovating an old house, and the carpet was in very good condition, so I decided to use it in the theatre..
It's a greyish green fleck, so in keeping with the colour, I decided on a dark greyish green for the walls, and a very dark grey for the ceiling..
All the woodwork and door and walls were all painted the same colour..

Now it was time to start on the serious stuff...
First up...bass traps...I used a material called "Supertel". which is the equivalent OC703...
Here you can see the trap material roughly placed in position...

There will be 3 layers, 2" thick in each corner, from floor to ceiling..

More to follow shortly...
 
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#2 ·
Nothing wrong with that room. As long as you look at it realistically in terms of screen size and number of seats, that can be a great sounding space.

Bryan
 
#3 ·
Bryan,

I'm looking at using an 8' wide CIH screen...
I have three recliners which will just fit across the room..They will be about 10' back from the screen...Certainly not enough room for two rows, since the screenwall will be about 2' out from the front wall...
I'll also have to revert back to a 5.1 system..
 
#4 ·
Seating is fine. 8' wide in a 10' wide room is IMO not a good idea. That's way too big. I sit 11' from my screen and run a 92" 16:9 screen and that's just about right.

Also, IMO, CIH is not a good idea. Sounds good in theory but you waste way too much of the PJ resolution you pay for. Do the 16:9 the size that will fit and mask the top and bottom for 2.35. You'll get a better pic more of the time that way.

Just my 2 cents

Bryan
 
#5 ·
Bryan,

I'm using an Anamorphic lens setup for the CIH...This gives me full pixel resolution for 2.35:1 movies..
Many owners of anamorphic CIH setups have found that they are able to sit closer than one would with a normal setup.
With my previous screen (which was 9' wide) I was able to sit 11'6" from the screen without it being a problem..

I forgot to mention that my front speakers will be mounted above the screen, behind an acoustically transparent cloth covered panel..
 
#6 ·
Cozy little room you'll have.... I'm sure it will work out fine for you.

8' wide... that's a huge screen as Bryan suggest. Mine is 8' diagonal... well... 97" diagonal. I sit about 11-12' back in the front row of seating. It's huge. Of course mine is 16:9 so I suppose doing a 2.35:1 screen will make a difference. It may not seem as big. :huh:
 
#7 ·
When I first setup my 9' wide screen, I thought my eyes would be constantly darting from one side of the screen to the other to watch a movie, but that wasn't the case at all...
I've since learnt from the experts that our eyes have more problems with the vertical plain than with the horizontal plain..
Since a scope screen has less height (2.35:1 aspect) than the 16:9 screen..It shouldn't be a problem..
In my present case, that will make the height of the screen just 41"..
The screen material has already been cut to size so I'm hoping that it won't be too big...If it is, then I may have to reduce it later..
 
#8 ·
Yep, I've heard the same about 2.35:1 screens... they allow for a much wider screen than the room size would suggest (for my 4.2m wide room, I've been advised to get a 3m wide cinemascope screen).

It may just be the way the movie is actually framed -- the horizontal movement of objects on an anamorphic screen is proportionately a lot less than, say, on a pan-and-scan 16:9. I'm sure there's a technical paper on it somewhere... :nerd:
 
#9 ·
That sounds like a very reasonable size screen for that room width..
If you're mounting your L&R speakers at the sides of the screen, that should still give you enough clearance from the side walls, providing you're using fairly slim speakers...

One of the thing I've always liked about the local Cineplex theatre was that the Cinemascope screen was virtually wall to wall, and even sitting a long way back you still felt very much a part of the action...
I'm hoping that with my current setup, with screen almost wall to wall, I'm going to get a similar affect..
 
#10 ·
An update...

The corner traps have been made and fitted within a framework that's fixed to the wall..
The acoustic material has been fitted to the front wall and the whole area will be covered with black burlap..
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I was able to salvage most of the framing from the previous theatre..Just needed to cut it down a bit here and there, so it all came together pretty quickly..
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The cutout section at the bottom on the left hand side is where the equipment rack will roll in on carpet castors..
Bottom and side panels fitted.
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More pics soon...
 
#12 ·
Thanks Bill...I think having done a theatre before has helped things move along, and I was able to transport all the framing down to the new house..

I had originally made the frames for an 8' wide screen, so there wasn't anything to change...
The only changes needed were the prosceniums, which were too wide to fit into the new setup..
I built the new ones with solid MDF, since I didn't have room at the sides for speakers anymore..

Just when things were running smoothly, I've realized there is going to be a problem with the wiring...
This house design doesn't have a ceiling cavity..The ceiling follows the roof line,so there is only the depth of the roof timbers between the roof and the ceiling...I'm not going to be able to run any cables through there..
The walls are cladded timber framing with insulation filling the cavity, so it would be impossible to run cables through that..And I don't want to start taking the walls apart since they've just been painted...
Hmm...I have to have a think about that one..
 
#15 ·
That is starting to leave raceway as the viable option then.

Prof, I know you guys have different things down under than we have available up here, but they make a raceway corner rig that when installed looks like corner molding. When you get to the ceiling, you can run along the wall like trim molding for the ceiling (Or, you can actually hide wires behind that nice decorative angled crown molding). Then you have one and only one noticable raceway run from the wall to where the projector is. The raceway I work with can even terminate into a slim profile junction box and you can use power outlets or even get face plates for AV connections. Done right and the same color as the ceiling, or even done to match the trim molding and I don't think it would look bad at all.

Just some food for thought! I know you're very well versed in all of this and have everything handled, sometimes people think slightly different and that can spark some ideas. :)
 
#16 ·
Just some food for thought! I know you're very well versed in all of this and have everything handled, sometimes people think slightly different and that can spark some ideas. :)
Actually Bill, that has sparked an idea that I might be able to use...
The raceway idea sounds good, but with a slight variation..
What I think might work and make the whole thing simpler is to make up a wide,shallow raceway fitted to the ceiling and painted the same colour..
This would run from the top of the screenwall to the edge of the projector mount.
The video feeds and power lead would then come up from behind the screen,over the top moulding and along the raceway..The end of the raceway could be enclosed to mount connection panels and a power point for the projector..

This only leaves the wiring for the side surrounds, and I'm thinking of some sort of "U" channel fixed to the side walls (at speaker height) that the cable could lie in..It could look like the old picture rail that some of the older houses used to have..and painted the same colour as the walls, it shouldn't be too noticeable..
I could also fit a couple of banana sockets to it, near where the speakers will be mounted..

Do you see any problems that I haven't thought about?
 
#17 ·
Another update..

The curtains have been fitted to the side walls..They are a fairly heavy grey suede material, and are more for aesthetics reasons than any acoustic effect..They also add warmth to the room.
They extend about 6' back from the screenwall..
The ones on the left go over the entrance door when it's closed..
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Wiring of the fronts has begone and the Sub has been positioned temporarily..


Mounting the centre speaker above the screen proved a bit of a problem..It weighs 45lbs. and the top frame needed further bracing and support to take the weight..
Previously I had it below the screen, so it wasn't a problem..

It also has two rear firing 6" bass drivers, so some of the front wall material had to be removed..

The work goes on...
 
#18 ·
Progress on the Finniss Theatre has slowed considerably..A lot of my time has been taken up with repairs and general maintenance on the property..

I did manage to get all the speakers and the AV gear wired up...and the screen has been made up and is ready to be installed..

In my spare moments, I've been looking at a different way of running the cables across the ceiling..
One thing I wan't to include in the theatre are downlights..
With the ceiling and roof construction, there is not a legal space to mount downlights..
I could add soffits to the side walls, but then it could look a bit boxy in a narrow room and with the overhead raceway as well..
The other idea I had was to build a suspended ceiling tray..This would house the downlights around the perimeter of the tray...
It would be approx. 8'x4' with 6" sides, and be suspended about 8" below the ceiling..
The cables would then run across the tray to the projector, where I would have connection points mounted in the tray for projector feeds, power,video.and light control.. I could even run a rope light around the tray and reflect the colour off the ceiling..

One thing that does concern me is what if any affect this will have on the sound, in particular the centre speaker, since it's mounted above the screen..
I may have to cover it with some sound absorbing material to reduce reflections..

More pics to come..
 
#21 ·
About a week ago I was able to get stuck into the theatre again..It's progressing nicely and so far no problems..

The equipment rack is in position and wired up..Just the basic essentials..

I've mounted the projector and lens..fitted the side surrounds and wired them up, and finally fitted the new screen..

The power cord for the projector won't be hanging down like that when the ceiling tray is fitted..
The overhead framing is where the ceiling tray will be mounted..It will contain the main centre light, downlights, rope lights and an exhaust fan..
At the end of the tray near the projector will be power points and switches for the exhaust fan and projector,a light controllerand dimmer for the downlights and variable speed contoller for the fan, plus a power isolation switch..
The whole tray will be covered in black suede..



Next job...make the ceiling tray..
 
#22 ·
Looking great Prof. I really like the ceiling color too, nice choice of colors.

That lens looks interesting, any links on that puppy?

I think the custom ceiling cable run is going to look good too when finished.

BTW, what screen did you end up going with? Still the Nulon?
 
#23 ·
Thanks for the compliments Bill...

The Anamorphic lens (Known as the Aussiemorphic lens) is made by a fellow in Brisbane..
Mark is a very cluey guy and a very helpful guy as well..
Originally he sold the lens in kit form,(which is how I bought mine) but I believe he now sells them only assembled..
The prisms are very large 5"x7"which makes them suitable for most projectors..The prism's now come coated..
Here is a link to his site..
http://cavx.blogspot.com/2007/02/aussiemorphic-lens-new-sled.html

I've abandoned the Nulon screen material because of all the expansion and contraction problems I had with it..
This new screen would have to be the most simplest way of producing a screen with a gain over 1.00..that produces excellent whites and blacks and with excellent colour balance..
The only simpler way would be just buying a piece of do-able board..:bigsmile:

I'm going to do one of your tricks Bill, and not disclose any more info at this point..
I will shortly do a write up on it in the DIY Screens section...All I will say at the moment is if anyone is looking for a very cheap and stable white screen, with a gain higher than 1.0...then I may have the answer for you..:T
 
#24 ·
:)
Nothing wrong with a good tease now and then right?

That lens looks interesting. I checked the site out and I like it! What does that price equate to US or is that what I would pay? Also does this work with 4:3 native throw projectors or only 16:9 native throw? I guess I could ask him that too. ;)
 
#25 ·
:)
Nothing wrong with a good tease now and then right?
Isn't that always the way when someone comes up with a slightly different DIY screen?:bigsmile:

:)
That lens looks interesting. I checked the site out and I like it! What does that price equate to US or is that what I would pay? Also does this work with 4:3 native throw projectors or only 16:9 native throw? I guess I could ask him that too. ;)
It would probably equate to about US$500.00..but the lens weighs approx. 7Kg. and with the slide, would make it about 10Kg.
Shipping might be a bit costly, but would probably still work out cheaper than buying a commercial lens over there..
Contact Mark by all means..He is a very friendly helpful guy..

I don't believe that you can use it with a 4:3 native projector, but Mark can tell you for sure..
 
#27 ·
I think the Aussiemorphic lens illustrates the current problem we have with anamorphic viewing: the cost. Manufacturers are asking ridiculous prices for these lenses, assuming those who want them can afford to pay a premium. To me it makes little sense: we build these home cinema rooms to watch movies at the correct screen ratio (2.35:1) -- there's nothing extreme about that.

Can we say "profiteering"? :gah:

I'll get off my soapbox now...
 
#28 ·
You said it John....There is absolutely no way that I could have afforded an Anamorphic lens setup without people like Mark, who just wants to give everyone the opportunity of experiencing cinemascope movie viewing for the best price possible...He's not interested in making huge profits..
Because of his philosophy, he has sold a lot of these lenses, including overseas buyers..
AND...it compares very favourably with the much higher priced lenses..He's compared his lens against several well known brands and models that are available in the US..
 
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