Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

Building new Home Theater in Basement

4K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  bamabum 
#1 ·
Hi everyone,

I'm building my own villa, and I'm planning to have a dedicated Home Theater Room in the Basement.

I'm still reading and reading regarding all the aspects of building my desired Home Theater.

I'll start step by step and I'm hoping that I'll get your suggestions and recommendations along the way.

First of all, I want to know the dimensions that I should choose for this room, after taking into consideration the below:

I'm thinking of getting the following Zero Edge BD screen:

Black Diamond 4K .8
56.3" x 132.6"
144"
SBZ144BD8

As for the projector, I'm thinking of picking a projector that supports anamorphic:

Epson PowerLite Pro Cinema 6020UB 3D 1080p 3LCD Projector.

and get a fixed lenses separately.

Alternatively,

I'm thinking of getting a projector with Zoom Memory like:

JVC BU 200-Inch 1080p 3-Chip THX ISF 3D Front Projector, Black (DLA-X7).

Or

Sony VPL-VW95ES Projector.

There will be 2 rows of (4) + (4) seats.

I'll have a split unit AC in the back of the room in one corner and in the other corner I'm thinking of having a mini bar.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments.

Kind Regards,
Mouna.
 
See less See more
#10 ·
Any suggestions regarding the dimensions of the room based on my proposed setup.
What viewing angle are you comfortable with? 45 degrees? 55 degrees?

Once you decide how big an image you want to see, then it is easy to figure out the seating distance from the 144-inch screen that will give you that image size.

Once you have the seating distance for the main row, then you need to decide how much space you want between your main row and second row.

Once you know where your rows and screen are, then it's a matter of putting a box around it for the room.

But first you have to decide how big an image you want to see (viewing angle).
 
#11 ·
What viewing angle are you comfortable with? 45 degrees? 55 degrees?

Once you decide how big an image you want to see, then it is easy to figure out the seating distance from the 144-inch screen that will give you that image size.

Once you have the seating distance for the main row, then you need to decide how much space you want between your main row and second row.

Once you know where your rows and screen are, then it's a matter of putting a box around it for the room.

But first you have to decide how big an image you want to see (viewing angle).
Hi Sanjay,

I'm assuming that you are referring to which angle I"m comfortable with when I watch movies in theaters.

If this is the case, then I must say that I enjoy watching movies in the last few seats.

I don't know how this can be translated into a viewing angle.
 
#7 ·
I'm a little bit confused about 2 things:

There is a rule that you should set at least (1.5 * Screen size) = (1.5 * 144") = 216" = 18 ft

Fine with me, but what about the maximum distance?

Also, there is a website:

carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/

states that for 1080p (1920×1080) resolution, you must sit: 19 feet or closer for full benefit if the screen size is 144 inches diagonal !!

So, my question is: what is the distance between first row and the screen, distance between the first row and second row, elevation between first row and second row, and distance between screen and second row.

For the screen itself, what should be the distance between the floor and the screen.

And What should be the height of the room.

Sorry for asking too many questions, but I'm really confused here and would appreciate any help.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Hi Mouna,
I am in the process of finishing my basement with home theater and I am going through similar questions.

Here is something for you to consider (hope I am not adding to the confusion). For your screen size (132x56), you are getting a 2.35:1 aspect. But in this screen, if you project a 16:9 image, filling up the entire height, your real image will be about 100x56 giving a diagonal size of 114. This may surprise you by giving a small image. Try putting up a a blanket or something folded to 2.35:1 and 16:9 aspect ratios and get a feel for if it is small or not.

I have a 11ft wide wall which will have my screen. I am going with a 120" wide screen. For 2.35 aspect ratio, my image height will be 51". Corresponding 16:9 width for 51" height is ~90". When I put the blanket up it appeared way too small, also giving me vertical bars of 15" on each side.

My solution was to go with a hybrid approach (referred to as Constant Area). I just increased my screen height to 60", making it 120"x60". Now for 2.35 picture I will be using 120"x51", leaving about 4.5" horizontal bar on top and bottom. For 16:9, I will be getting a 107"x60" (6" vertical bar on each side). If you want to get fancy, you can get masking for them.

This brings in an additional demand on my projector - lens memory . Why? When I want to watch 2.35, I need to project the 16:9 (with horizontal bars) onto a size 90"x51". Which will be stretched vertically by my projector (to fill the black bars) and stretched horizontally by the A lens (x1.33) to 120. (my choice is JVC D-ILAX35. Other similarly priced option is PT-AE8000 - there may be others. My friend's Epson 6020 did not have lens memory, only manual zoom).

If you survived reading this far, since you have 132" wide screen and you chose to go with constant area approach, your results will be as follows

2.35:1, your image size will be 132"x56" (area : 7,392 sq.in)
16:9 your image will be 118"x66" (area : 7,788 sq.in)

From the areas you can see they are not same (as constant would imply), but very comparable. On the other hand your 132x56 screen would have given your 16:9 image an area of 5,600 sq.in. Huge difference.

Unfortunately I am still building the theater, doing calculations and starting to order equipment. So I can't tell you how it worked out yet :)

Hope it turns out the way that will make you the happiest.
 
#13 ·
Hi cmohan,

I know exactly what you are talking about :)

This surprises me as well, but thanks to the following articles:

The Most Important Decision to Make For Your Home Theater, Size

The Most Important Decision to Make For Your Home Theater, Width

Choosing Screen Size, Part 1

Choosing the Right Screen Size, Part 2

Choosing the Right Aspect Ratio

Choosing the Right Aspect Ratio Part Two: The Cinemascope 2.4 Option

Choosing the Right Aspect Ratio Part Three: The Problem with Cinemascope 2.4

But I guess I don't have to worry about those things now. I have plenty of time to think about it.

My main concern now is to determine the dimensions of my home theater room to start designing the house and the begin construction afterward.
 
#15 ·
Not to add another variable to your decision but since your planning....

Determine your type and budget of seating as best you can now. Seating can run from $300 per person to $3000 per person. Arguably if you go mid to high end it will be a significant part of your budget.

If you plan on having a reclining row in the back be sure to plan for that space. If the chairs will recline back like a lazy boy 5 feet from back to back of rows is fine but you will need 2 ft reclining behind the back row. If you get incliners (typical HT seats that can hug a wall or bar top behind) you will need 6.5 ft from back to back of rows. Otherwise a larger persons feet will be at the back of someones head.

If just couches then no worries.
 
#17 ·
That is an excellent point bamabum.

Actually, I was planning to leave a space behind the back row.

In one corner, I'll place a mini bar and in the other corner I might place a standing Split Unit AC.

Here is an example of what I'm thinking.



By the way, I was thinking of getting Arc shaped seats for better viewing to my guests, what do you think?
 
#19 ·
Mooney,

I like your rendering. Rendering really helped a lot in my planning. It allowed me to trust the design during a build which is important.

Sanjay has some great advice!

The things I am most glad I did were:
1- Create false wall. treating the wall in front was the best thing for acoustics I did. In a box room there is such a slap echo that you can not listen to anything very loud. It literally hurts the brain. After treating the front wall I could increase the DB level safely and enjoy much clearer sound.
2- The false wall with acoustic screen lets you put the center at eye/ear level. Once you know this and understand it is hard to watch with the sound from a ground stand. The is amplified in the back row where the front row eats up the sound from the ground placed center.
3- Give enough room between the rows. I have friends in the 6 ft range that can recline without hitting those in front as well as 4'5" friends that can still see over the front row.

In your drawing there are a few things that stand out.
1) It looks VERY nice!
2) The concave angle on the back riser is the wrong direction. There are plenty of posts why you don't want the U to be that direction. Switch it. Take a look at "The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread". Ask him a question or two about this. He will respond as he is great. Note a curved angle is either a nightmare or $$ for the carpet guy (especially with pattern carpet) or more work for you the woodworker. If this is acceptable proceed forward as it make a dramatic statement.
3) Look at seating from Pallisar or others to understand curved seating now. I fear your bar area will not have clearance for stools as well as recline from far right seat. Also, a reclined seat in far left back will block the exit. A curved seating arrangement requires more space in the riser, especially if the front row is strait.
4) Determine your riser height with your drawings. A standard step is 7.5 in. plan for that and a riser around 12-14 in according to my understanding of your setup. Calculations will tell you.
5) can you post a view from above with measurements, this will give you more feedback.
6) I have 12 and 19.5 head to screen distances and it is about perfect for two rows. I used 16:9 so if you use cinema you can get away with a little bigger screen.
7) Simulate! If you can afford the projector now, set it up in your garage and project onto a wall. it will tell you so much. blue tape off the floor like the room. I found my seating ahead of time. I then simulated in a room with a chair and pillow to get the same height. With an avg sized guy friend I sat behind them and gauged the height I would sit with my risers and projected screen. This told me more than any of the calculators.

Enough rambling. Enjoy
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top