Ported EBS build - pics

[Mike P.]

I use egg crate on all my builds. Cut to fit and apply hot glue. Very simple. The foam I used in the build below was a little bit thin but at the time that's all they had.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/8554-mach-5-audio-ixl-18-4-build.html

[bluejay]

I like the look of the foam. Who sells that? I heard Walmart, but elsewhere?

Also, you have plywood glue blocks to double the thickness of each T nut attachment. Is that the common method? It seems like an excellent idea for me because my front baffle is single thickness.

[Mike P.]

I don't know what stores are available in your area, you'll have to phone around to see who sells egg crate foam mattress pads.

I believe the plywood blocks were 3/8 inch thick. It's just for the T-Nut to "bite" into as they don't hold well in MDF. You can also use a router and cut a 2 or 3 inch wide ring out of plywood to glue to the baffle.

[bluejay]

I don't know what stores are available in your area, you'll have to phone around to see who sells egg crate foam mattress pads.

In my area, I can order it from Sears

I believe the plywood blocks were 3/8 inch thick. It's just for the T-Nut to "bite" into as they don't hold well in MDF.

Yes, and the T nut won't chew into your main baffle panel, possibly weakening it?

[bluejay]

This is a shot of the blocks I am gluing in to better support the T nuts. Bolt, nut, and washer are clamping them on. They are different sizes to accommodate bracing, etc. I had some 1/4" plywood around so that is what got used.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachments/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/11550d1231704402-ported-ebs-build-pics-img_4145-2.jpg

[Mike P.]

After the T-Nuts are installed and before you mount the sub, run the bolts through all the T-Nuts to make sure the threads are clean and not binding.

I like the green color. It looks good!

[Aaron Gilbert]

Sweet, another green subwoofer!! That looks like almost the same shade as I used. I also glued blocks behind my baffle to better hold the screws - though just coarse thread wood screws in my case, going into blocks of oak.

[bluejay]

run the bolts through all the T-Nuts to make sure the threads are clean and not binding.

Will do

I have a grill coming, hopefully today. It also mounts with T nuts. This particular grill is described as having a total open area of 50%. It is all I could find around here so I went for it. What will the blockage of 50% tend to do? If it is going to be that bad, maybe I'll leave it off?

Has anyone tried a grill like this? (50% waffle grill)

[Mike P.]

If it's the waffle grill I'm thinking of then it won't work. Do you have a link or a pic to the grill you're referring to?

[bluejay]

If it's the waffle grill I'm thinking of then it won't work. Do you have a link or a pic to the grill you're referring to?

The picture is in a large pdf and would not copy, (for me).

I will take your word for it that it is unsuitable. That was my first impression too. It is black and made up of 5/16 square holes - 50%. I will take a picture when it does come.

Also coming are some plastic port tubes that I want to use as a flange, to cover my potted in ABS port joint. They are not the nice looking flared ones, just a flange.

I will not install any extra T nuts to hold the grill yet. They will be unsightly if I am not using them.

Sweet, another green subwoofer!! That looks like almost the same shade as I used.

This sub of Aaron's helped inspire the green motif. The texture of the hardboard got me thinking "roller". I knew I could roller paint on inexpensively and it would not look (much) worse than the walls in the house.

http://www.aaroncgilbert.com/images/emeraldtitan/05230022.jpg