Ported EBS build - pics

[Mike P.]

The problem with waffle grills is they aren't deep enough to allow for excursion, even if the subwoofer is flush mounted.

http://www.terminalresolutions.com/catalog/at-g062.jpg

If a sub is surface mounted, the grill would need to be at least 1.5 inches deep. My subs are surface mounted and I made my own out of 2 pieces of 3/4 inch MDF glued together and some speaker grill cloth. Very easy to do if you have a router.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/8554-mach-5-audio-ixl-18-4-build.html

[bluejay]

That picture looks like it except I ordered separate mounting tabs.
Well I have a few options. I can build a wood and cloth one like Mike's. I could make a wood ring and possibly mount the waffle to it? I can think of something else?

Or I can watch the sub woof in and out. That was my original plan, I just started thinking about protection. I really would like to watch the thing move. I just don't want to kick it by accident, since it will be on the floor.

[bluejay]

One T nut is not behaving. I can not see any glue in it but it chewed up the threads on one bolt and won't let any others pass. I have removed it, possibly to retap, possibly to replace when I get some more. It is a bit of a holdup now.

[ISLAND1000]

bluejay wrote:

One T nut is not behaving. I can not see any glue in it but it chewed up the threads on one bolt and won't let any others pass. I have removed it, possibly to retap, possibly to replace when I get some more. It is a bit of a holdup now.

Don't try to retap it just get another one. I've had that happen too.

[Mike P.]

This brings up a good point for future builds. Test all T-Nuts to make sure they are functional before installing them.

[Aaron Gilbert]

bluejay wrote:

...
This sub of Aaron's helped inspire the green motif. The texture of the hardboard got me thinking "roller". I knew I could roller paint on inexpensively and it would not look (much) worse than the walls in the house.

http://www.aaroncgilbert.com/images/emeraldtitan/05230022.jpg

Cool, glad I got you thinking! Your roller job looks at least as good as my rattle-can green spray job - actually better, from what I can see.

Bummer about the T-nuts. I despise those things. To their credit, I have only had maybe three dozen pop out or cross-thread on me, in removing many hundreds of woofers and/or amplifiers.

[bluejay]

This brings up a good point for future builds. Test all T-Nuts to make sure they are functional before installing them.

Yes they are finicky. I did test them in a way. I used them to clamp the blocks underneath the front baffle.

Possibly some glue got in to a couple of them, or possibly they took a set a little off centre. Then the next time of use they started to cross thread or something similar. I discovered the problem on the third test, the one Mike suggested, to run them completely through.

This should not be a big deal if they arrive today. I did call 2 local building supplies to inquire about "T nuts". They did indeed know what they were, however, they did not have any.

[bluejay]

Your roller job looks at least as good as my rattle-can green spray job - actually better, from what I can see.

Well it turned out exactly like it should have given the amount of effort I put in to it. If you stand back and look you say, "well there is a green sub". If you look a little closer you would say "there is a green sub made of fir plywood".

I only did one round of dent filling and sanding. It could have used more, partly because the plywood is softwood and dents easily. I did not start laying it on a duvet until after it was painted.

I suppose I did take most of this into account though. It matches the rest of the decor, (imperfect).

[bluejay]

Getting the sub finished and installation photos. I used foam weatherstripping for the seal.
The front speakers are JBL Eons. The side surrounds are Cerwin Vega D9's. The rear surrounds are homebuilt using 4" Swan full range drivers. I just finished the wall rack before Christmas.
The amp for the sub is backordered from the dealer, boo hoo.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachments/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/11619d1231890124-ported-ebs-build-pics-img_4146.jpg

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachments/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/11620d1231890124-ported-ebs-build-pics-img_4174.jpg

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachments/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/11621d1231890124-ported-ebs-build-pics-img_4177.jpg

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachments/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/11623d1231890124-ported-ebs-build-pics-img_4188.jpg

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachments/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/11624d1231890124-ported-ebs-build-pics-img_4189.jpg

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/attachments/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/11625d1231890124-ported-ebs-build-pics-img_4190.jpg

[salvasol]

bluejay wrote:

I used foam weatherstripping for the seal.

I've seen this in a couple of DIY threads ....Is it necessary???

My Match 5 IXL 15.2.2 came with a rubber surround around the driver edge that fit tight in the opening, so I didn't use anything else. Should I add this weather strip???