PICS and VIDS Fi IB3 18 LLT build Discuss PICS and VIDS Fi IB3 18 LLT build in the DIY Subwoofers and Build Projects forum; PICS and VIDS Fi IB3 18 LLT build So we decided it's too cold to do the car, and by the time it's warm enough there should be ...

**kryptonitewhite** · **01-25-09, 07:25 PM**

So we decided it's too cold to do the car, and by the time it's warm enough there should be a 21" or 22" ready, so we're putting this in the HT. I haven't decided if we're gonne do an LLT or just a large and low tuned enclosure :P ( have to measure and see what room we have, and get a dedicated sub amp to be "true" LLT)

Tomorrow I will know how big and tuning, and if 8" or 10" port. We got the wood over to mom's garage yesterday... gonna freeze tomorrow.

**Blaser** · **01-26-09, 02:49 PM**

Hey Jordan,

Nice Dumbell

Let us know what you decide. Seeing the photos, it seems you're having some serious heating in the house

NB: I edited an expression in your post and I hope you don't mind

**kryptonitewhite** · **01-26-09, 03:00 PM**

haha ya for now, it's a huge paperweight! I am conflicted, in-house or in-car right now.... I finally got the car measurments today, and I think it will be a bit before I get a sub amp for HT... what to do? what to do!

Either way, this thing will be playing in something soon enough.

Thanks for the edit, I get carried away sometimes

**Blaser** · **01-26-09, 03:07 PM**

No problem friend

You'll enjoy it either way, but from what I know about you, you'll probably need more at house (just like me)

About the port, I think a 8" is standard for an 18 incher. It would be hard to fit in a 10" port unless you agree to tune high (and I know you won't

), but I believe you won't need a 10" port anyway. It is very hard to chuff a 8" port...

**kryptonitewhite** · **01-26-09, 03:17 PM**

Quote:

Blaser wrote:

No problem friend

You'll enjoy it either way, but from what I know about you, you'll probably need more at house (just like me)

About the port, I think a 8" is standard for an 18 incher. It would be hard to fit in a 10" port unless you agree to tune high (and I know you won't

), but I believe you won't need a 10" port anyway. It is very hard to chuff a 8" port...

Well, it's probably gonna start off in the car, and when the 22 comes out I'll cut the hole bigger and drop it in... that's why i started with the 10" port... for when I blast 20Hz tones for SPL runs HEHE. Then I'd use the 18 in the HT till I could afford 4 Sicko's... Could tune those to 10Hz and the 18" to 30Hz bwuahahaha!

(totally kidding!)

**chadci** · **01-28-09, 05:19 PM**

I understand the paperweight status. I've had my for MJ18's "chillin" in the garage for over a month I guess. I built the first manifold too small, built the second one this past weekend but I've not gotten any further than that.

**kryptonitewhite** · **01-28-09, 05:43 PM**

Quote:

chadci wrote:

I understand the paperweight status. I've had my for MJ18's "chillin" in the garage for over a month I guess. I built the first manifold too small, built the second one this past weekend but I've not gotten any further than that.

depressing.

i have mine sittn right in the BR for motivation, sometimes I'm like "what a waste" but then I just look at her, touch her, smile...

**SteveCallas** · **01-31-09, 10:59 PM**

Yikes, are you purposefully trying to kill your driver? Sine wave for a solid minute in free air at just below full excursion?

If I were FiCar, you just voided your warranty

**kryptonitewhite** · **02-01-09, 12:37 AM**

Quote:

SteveCallas wrote:

Yikes, are you purposefully trying to kill your driver? Sine wave for a solid minute in free air at just below full excursion?

If I were FiCar, you just voided your warranty

That wasn't my 1st time bringing any driver full excursion for more than a minute.

Or the 2nd, or the 10th.

I break my woofers in overnight. Always have. You should know of all people that you can run a woofer <20Hz for a month if you wanted. The driver won't even get warm doing it. It is just like a fan keeping itself cool.

Also, I don't believe burnt coils are covered: ever. And if I sent it back for a legitimate claim (manufacture defect) and it didn't have a burnt coil, or bent tinsel leads, or anything else showing user abuse, I don't see why it would matter.

Here is a video with a wall of 15's moving full excursion for several days at CES

Here are some Adire driver vids, done by Dan Wiggins himself, and Steven Kephart

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Adire/koda10.3.wmv

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Adire/extremis6.1.wmv

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Adire/brahma15.1.wmv

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Adire/brahma12.13.wmv

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Adire/brahma12.14.wmv

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Adire/fr125s4.5.1.wmv

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/Adire/brahma15.6.wmv

Here is a Kicker Maual telling you to bring the driver to full Xmax for 16 hours

http://kicker.com/sites/default/files/SoloBaricL7Series.pdf

Important Break-In Information
Every Solo-Baric L7 subwoofer is individually computer-tested before shipment to insure the highest performance standards possible.
Like many precision machines, the Solo-Baric L7 requires a break-in period before it will reach optimum performance.
When brand new, the L7-series high performance suspension system is very stiff. After approximately two weeks of daily usage, the suspension
will loosen, or break-in, to a point of equilibrium. This time period may vary depending on the amount of play time, volume level, and type
of music you listen to. More play time, with medium volume levels and more bass content, will break in the subwoofer most quickly.
For those of you with more sophisticated audio equipment, the Solo-Barics can be broken-in on the test bench overnight with the following
procedure.
Solo-Baric Freeair Break-In Procedure
1. Connect the speaker to a power amp of about fifty watts or more. The speaker should not be mounted in any enclosure - just freeair.
2. Connect an audio generator to the input of the power amp, and adjust the generator to approximatley 45Hz for the S8L7, 35Hz for the
S10L7, 30Hz for the S12L7, and 20Hz for the S15L7.
3. Now adjust the gain on the amplifier and generator so that the cone is moving to Xmax. This can be determined visually by looking at the
"blur depth" of the logo on the dustcap. A close approximation will do. On the S8L7 this will be about 3/4", on the S10L7 about 1", on the
S12L7 about 1", and on the S15L7 about 1 1/4".
4. Operate the speakers in this manner for about eight hours. A quick break-in will give acceptable results in four hours, and a very thorough
break-in would be closer to 16 hours.
NOTE: Keep in mind that as the speaker is used under normal conditions the break-in will continue, so if you don't have time for the complete
break-in period the speaker will still break-in itself under normal usage.

**Blaser** · **02-01-09, 08:34 AM**

Beware, the above is not necessarily valid for all manufacturers. The problem is free air does not provide any mechanical support to the suspension and you risk to bottom it out easily.

I would never care to brake in a speaker that way, but just listen to it moderately will do fine

Normally unless the speaker (sub) is designed to be running in free air, like special IB subs or open baffle subs, it is not a good practice to do so. Nevertheless, it is always fun to see the sub in action

, but proceed at your risk ...

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