Final design not completed yet, but I will go for 2 boxes 550-600 L effective, 16 Hz tune, 8" or 10" port, powered by EP 2500, dual 2 ohm configuration.
I am not that good in woodworking, so I am only making the design on paper, but will have the job performed by a carpenter.
I have some variables I would like your advice about:
- MDF or not? If MDF, 16mm, 18mm, or 22 mm? Front baffle will bear both the driver and port.
- Is bracing a must? Never read that anybody made an enclosure without bracing, but I did that for my 4cu ft car sub. and it is rock solid and working very very well, I can even stand on it... no problem. Of course at least the port will be internally supported.
- Insulation: Is it a must? If yes, is 1" fiberglass ok? Should the volume be taken into consideration? I never read someone did...
Oh! I was curious because I will be putting my dual RLp18's in a room about as small as yours. I may have a higher ceiling, idk. My LP is about 4-5ft from the backwall but the backwall is actually the sliding doors for the in-room closet. I call it the "fourth bedroom" because....well, it was supposed to be a guest room. When we moved in, I told my dad I needed a dedicated room for my HT and we never have guests. Lolz.
The rough measurements for my room are about 20ft x 10-11ft x 9ft. The thing is...my room is pretty rectangular but the front of the room is about a foot wider than the rest of the room. And I wasn't sure if the closet was supposed to be accounted for. :scratchhead:
I can link some pics of my HT if anyone is interested.
That is something I haven't taken too seriously...
Measuring the FR with the door open or not. I prefer to have it shut as to not disturb the rest of the house. The main reason I put my HT on the farthest end of the house.
Haven't used REW yet but I may soon. Just gotta get a couple of cables and another LCD screen to take into my HT. Or maybe a decommissioned laptop...
I have disassembled the subs and they were sent downstairs for priming and painting....This very sad I have to wait 3-4 days without the subs:hissyfit::waiting:
I somehow guessed you would bring that up. Would it have prevented it, if I had used only a 500W amp? Remember that the surround detached during a 95 dB sweep.
It was a manufacturing error instead (too little glue). Nothing to do with the amp power I was using.
I have fixed it now and I clipped the same 2000W amp in free-air while testing it - no detaching surrounds anymore.
I didn't mean to say it was because of the power run through it, I was just poking fun at your statement that a "proper" driver wouldn't have any issue with the spider wearing out - a "proper" driver wouldn't have any issue with the surround coming off either. It was more a jab at TC Sounds than anything else :innocent:
I have installed T-nuts, and this is really a good thing. I do advise any new DIYer to use T-Nuts, their installation is quite easy, price is low, but the benefits are great!!
While we're on the subject of T-nuts, without diverting this thread too much, blaser, did you consider threaded inserts at all? (something like these)...
I still don't know which ones are better, I just think the threaded inserts look so clean and tidy, I can't help but love them (I have problems, ok?).
E: I suppose these guys are best for those who intend to pull the drivers out occasionally, but I think they still make a great tight connection... I've been known to be wrong before though.
I have only one minute available to quickly reply to your message as these days I am working as an industrial inspector in a pipe mill out of town about 16 Hrs a day....and I am very busy.
They are painted now, the are nice but the colour is a bit kind of rosewood that I don't like a lot....But the sound is still great!!
I will forward some pics and further listening impressions once I get home....that's a promisse!
Oh sweet! Love that finish! ...looks pretty slick!
Im just doing a little tweaking with my box now. Going to be lining the inside with fiberglass. Hopefully Ill have these suckers sealed and started painting this weekend.
:sad:Well Steve. I know the TV is not matching with the rest of my system (do you really have to remind meaddle:....I hate you:sob.... :R
BTW, I fought very hard and spared much of my hardly earned money to build this system, and the next "real" upgrade will be the TV...that's sure:neener:
I see coming a thread opened for the TV, but not before 7-8 months:dunno:
Nevertheless, I thank you for your contribution to this "LF world" :R :T
I also was wondering about that, and if you're going to be wired in series to get 4 ohms from the two 2 ohm drivers, wouldn't you use the mono bridged configuration? That would be plenty of power, no?
I don't understand very well you Q? but I will try to reply: I have the D4 drivers not the D2, and yes I am using a bridged configuration.
Well.... a single box hit 125 db uncorrected earlier in this thread:R.... this was at 8 ohm bridged for a single woofer If you add the second sub wired in parallele, it gets 4 ohm bridged (around 2000-2200W from amp). And that's the current setup.
When I have time, I will try Dual 8 ohms configuration and see what the difference is.
Sorry blaser, I wasn't trying to take a jab at you, just having little fun. No harm intended :T I was using a 27" JVC tube tv with my speakers and sub for nearly a year myself.
Yes Steve I know.... I do like you sense of humour:bigsmile: Pls feel free to send more and more:R
By the way, I also need to replace the AC unit by a decent split unit:heehee: you did not notice that....But BTW, I can't hear anything from this window A/C unit when I'm seriously firing a movie....
FYI, I will add another amp and will connect the to a dedicated A/C 32A line (220V):devil:
I will see what the improvement is:waiting:
Thy is the responsible for this near furture step:innocent:
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