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Dual RL-P18 LLT for my 2000 cu ft HT soon

31K views 182 replies 19 participants last post by  Blaser 
#1 ·
Final design not completed yet, but I will go for 2 boxes 550-600 L effective, 16 Hz tune, 8" or 10" port, powered by EP 2500, dual 2 ohm configuration.

I am not that good in woodworking, so I am only making the design on paper, but will have the job performed by a carpenter.

I have some variables I would like your advice about:

- MDF or not? If MDF, 16mm, 18mm, or 22 mm? Front baffle will bear both the driver and port.
- Is bracing a must? Never read that anybody made an enclosure without bracing, but I did that for my 4cu ft car sub. and it is rock solid and working very very well, I can even stand on it... no problem. Of course at least the port will be internally supported.
- Insulation: Is it a must? If yes, is 1" fiberglass ok? Should the volume be taken into consideration? I never read someone did...

Your inputs are highly appreciated.

Blaser
 
#140 ·
Hi Scott,

My LP is close to the back wall while my subs are along the front walls. about 4 m from LP, behind speakers and TV.

You will be amazed with your subs....how big is your room? I would gladly give you some construction hints if you need...
 
#141 ·
Oh! I was curious because I will be putting my dual RLp18's in a room about as small as yours. I may have a higher ceiling, idk. My LP is about 4-5ft from the backwall but the backwall is actually the sliding doors for the in-room closet. I call it the "fourth bedroom" because....well, it was supposed to be a guest room. When we moved in, I told my dad I needed a dedicated room for my HT and we never have guests. Lolz.

The rough measurements for my room are about 20ft x 10-11ft x 9ft. The thing is...my room is pretty rectangular but the front of the room is about a foot wider than the rest of the room. And I wasn't sure if the closet was supposed to be accounted for. :scratchhead:

I can link some pics of my HT if anyone is interested.
 
#142 ·
Sure.... with my very small experience, room acoustics are very hard to predict, but your one might be better than a fully rectangilar one...

FYI, I have some room cancellation at 11-15 Hz compared to door open...It is weird, but that's the case.
 
#143 ·
That is something I haven't taken too seriously...

Measuring the FR with the door open or not. I prefer to have it shut as to not disturb the rest of the house. The main reason I put my HT on the farthest end of the house.

Haven't used REW yet but I may soon. Just gotta get a couple of cables and another LCD screen to take into my HT. Or maybe a decommissioned laptop...
 
#146 ·
I have disassembled the subs and they were sent downstairs for priming and painting....This very sad I have to wait 3-4 days without the subs:hissyfit::waiting:
 
#147 ·
Ilkka said:
Are you underestimating the "LLT" now? If it can take it, what's the problem?
Fine, fine, I will cease and desist.

Ilkka said:
I somehow guessed you would bring that up. Would it have prevented it, if I had used only a 500W amp? Remember that the surround detached during a 95 dB sweep.

It was a manufacturing error instead (too little glue). Nothing to do with the amp power I was using.

I have fixed it now and I clipped the same 2000W amp in free-air while testing it - no detaching surrounds anymore.
I didn't mean to say it was because of the power run through it, I was just poking fun at your statement that a "proper" driver wouldn't have any issue with the spider wearing out - a "proper" driver wouldn't have any issue with the surround coming off either. It was more a jab at TC Sounds than anything else :innocent:
 
#148 ·
Yes, Ilkka was unlucky...
 
#150 ·
Thanks!! Tomorrow, it will end:bigsmile:
 
#151 ·
I have installed T-nuts, and this is really a good thing. I do advise any new DIYer to use T-Nuts, their installation is quite easy, price is low, but the benefits are great!!
 
#153 ·
Thanks Ilkka:T
 
#154 · (Edited)
While we're on the subject of T-nuts, without diverting this thread too much, blaser, did you consider threaded inserts at all? (something like these)...

I still don't know which ones are better, I just think the threaded inserts look so clean and tidy, I can't help but love them (I have problems, ok?).

E: I suppose these guys are best for those who intend to pull the drivers out occasionally, but I think they still make a great tight connection... I've been known to be wrong before though.
 
#155 ·
No. I used standard T-nuts. They are already very good and not very difficult to install. They are more than enough.
 
#157 ·
Scott,

I have only one minute available to quickly reply to your message as these days I am working as an industrial inspector in a pipe mill out of town about 16 Hrs a day....and I am very busy.

They are painted now, the are nice but the colour is a bit kind of rosewood that I don't like a lot....But the sound is still great!!

I will forward some pics and further listening impressions once I get home....that's a promisse!
 
#158 ·
Here are some more photos:boxer:
 

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#159 ·
And Here is the winning photo.............
 

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#164 ·
:sad::(Well Steve. I know the TV is not matching with the rest of my system (do you really have to remind me:paddle:....I hate you:sob:).... :R

BTW, I fought very hard and spared much of my hardly earned money to build this system, and the next "real" upgrade will be the TV...that's sure:neener:

I see coming a thread opened for the TV, but not before 7-8 months:dunno:

Nevertheless, I thank you for your contribution to this "LF world" :R :T
 
#165 ·
Hi bnw!

I don't understand very well you Q? but I will try to reply: I have the D4 drivers not the D2, and yes I am using a bridged configuration.
Well.... a single box hit 125 db uncorrected earlier in this thread:R.... this was at 8 ohm bridged for a single woofer If you add the second sub wired in parallele, it gets 4 ohm bridged (around 2000-2200W from amp). And that's the current setup.

When I have time, I will try Dual 8 ohms configuration and see what the difference is.

Have a nice day!
 
#167 ·
Yes Steve I know.... I do like you sense of humour:bigsmile: Pls feel free to send more and more:R
By the way, I also need to replace the AC unit by a decent split unit:heehee: you did not notice that....But BTW, I can't hear anything from this window A/C unit when I'm seriously firing a movie....
FYI, I will add another amp and will connect the to a dedicated A/C 32A line (220V):devil:
I will see what the improvement is:waiting:
Thy is the responsible for this near furture step:innocent:
 
#168 ·
I have made a similation of room frequency response behaviour with 2 seating configurations (Axially and laterally).

Assuming a flat subwoofer response, Which type of curve do you like more? Brucek? Others?
 

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