TC Sounds Custom Pro 5100 (Ferrite Magnet) with Dual 18" VMP Passive Radiators
I am proud to say I have started the process to build my dream sub! Here are the specs...
TC Sounds Custom Pro 5100 18" Driver (Ferrite Magnet)
Dual TC Sounds 18" VMP Passive Radiators each with 2200 grams of mass
9.042 Cubic Foot Box tuned to 16.03Hz (25x25x25 Internal Dimensions, double thick 1.5" baffles for the driver and passives)
I was originally planning on using a Pro 5100 driver and doing a 7 cubic foot box, but came across a DEAL on 2 Custom subs, so I jumped on it. I also bumped the box to 9 cubic feet. The short of it is that the subs are a Pro 5100 top assembly with a Ferrite Motor instead of Neodymium.
Attached are the WinISD files. (I stole the start of this from Endesereth. Thanks!) I have one with less moving mass on the passives... Still trying to decide, but that is the beauty I can play with it! I will be updating these files with the specs of the Custom subs soon.
Let me know what you guys think of my plan and any insight would be great.
They've given me jip over the last two builds. I used gorilla glue to fix them in but on a few when you screw the bolts in, it pushes the t nuts out. Im sure there is better glue to fix them in with.
Exactly like that. I drill a 5mm hole, then use a slightly bigger drill bit to open the back very slightly. I then apply some gorilla glue to the t nut and then hammer in gently. Then leave to dry. Once dry I lay the driver in the baffle hole and then screw in the bolts to make sure it all fits fine.
Huh... Who woulda thunkit. I just did like 40 t-nuts and no problems. As matter of fact I had to pound one out because it was not the right threading for my 10/24 screws.
I wouldn't use gorilla glue on metal. Use 2 part epoxy.
I have some vintage POlk Audio SDA SRS 2 speakers, and one of the problems people had constantly was the wood tearing out in the mounting holes. Someone devised a metal ring with small thread bungs placed in the correct places around the ring. Then all you do is line it up, drill holes, push the ring in from the back and voila! The metal ring positions everything correctly and basically sandwiches the wood between it and the driver...
Pretty cool idea, but I have never seen such a thing outside of Polk Audio
It's not new. For builds using MDF for baffles (especially heavy drivers) I just took my router and routed out a 1.5 thick ring of birch ply. A couple dabs of glue and clamp. Use a self tapping wood screw and you are done.
Retrofitting an existing fixed place baffle? Simple cut the ring in half, glue and clamp. Doesn't even require that you drill new holes. Just use the existing.
It's not new. For builds using MDF for baffles (especially heavy drivers) I just took my router and routed out a 1.5 thick ring of birch ply. A couple dabs of glue and clamp. Use a self tapping wood screw and you are done.
Retrofitting an existing fixed place baffle? Simple cut the ring in half, glue and clamp. Doesn't even require that you drill new holes. Just use the existing.
Haven't been over there in a couple months. Been busy working on my subs and I don't really think anyone over there would be much help
Don
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Home Theater Forum and Systems
742.3K posts
170.9K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to home theater owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about home audio/video, home theaters, troubleshooting, projects, DIY’s, product reviews and more!