Some Doable vs MMud shots (warning, lots of shots)

[tweakophyte]

Hi-

I purchased a sheet of doable a while ago which I am going to use to make a floating screen. My current screen is the original MMud painted on a wall. I thought it would be fun to post some screen shots.

My PJ is a panny AX200u. I happened to be playing FF: Rise of the Silver Surfer off of my Panny RP-56.

Here's a shot of the set-up. You can see my tripod at the bottom of the shot.



The shots will done in the following order. First is lights off, then at the dim, mood-lighting setting we use, then at the "sports bar" lighting we use for parties.







What I notice when I see these is the slight, blue push of the doable and what seems to be more shadow details of the doable. The MMud looks great, too. It's strange how Jessica's face looks lighter on the doable section (the bottom part).

[tweakophyte]

This is the same order of shots.

[tweakophyte]

Here's a dark scene. Notice on the lighted shot how the camera increased the exposure.

[tweakophyte]

Some of the Silver Surfer









The Doable is definitely showing blacker blacks here.

[tweakophyte]

On the other hand, is the doable crushing blacks or is that just the camera exposure?

[tweakophyte]

[wbassett]

Have you recalibrated your projector yet?

I know we did a reading on this but I can't find it for the life of me. If I recall it didn't have a blue lean at all and is almost identical to DW in specs and gain.

It does look a little darker than your main screen, so if you haven't recalibrated try that before anything else.

[tweakophyte]

[tweakophyte]

[tweakophyte]

Here's one more of the doable on the bottom and the MMud on top

[tweakophyte]

wbassett wrote:

Have you recalibrated your projector yet?

I know we did a reading on this but I can't find it for the life of me. If I recall it didn't have a blue lean at all and is almost identical to DW in specs and gain.

It does look a little darker than your main screen, so if you haven't recalibrated try that before anything else.

No recalibration. I'm still debating on wheter or not to use the front side of the doable for a while or use the back side and paint it. I am also trying to get used to a "grey" screen.

[Harpmaker]

tweakophyte wrote:

No recalibration. I'm still debating on wheter or not to use the front side of the doable for a while or use the back side and paint it. I am also trying to get used to a "grey" screen.

A darker screen will always have darker whites than a lighter screen, there is only so much reflective agents in the paint can do to compensate for this before they start showing their presence via graininess, hot-spotting or shimmering.

My advice would be to stop comparing the two screens side-by-side and just use the do-able after recalibrating the PJ for it. The whole gray screen idea only works because the human brain takes the lightest color it sees, and "knows" is white, and uses this as a "white level" of sorts.

[mechman]

I'd say it all looks as it should, considering the color of the two screens. About the only thing you have to answer to is whites, and how far you want performance to improve in ambient lighting.

Whites are not as big of a deal as most people say they are. There will always be those that say that a gray screen produces muddy whites, and it's true to an extent. But you only notice when there's a white screen to compare them with. Remove the white screen and the muddy whites seem to disappear with it.

Still haven't figured out th floating mount yet, huh tweak? I thought you were gonna use wire last I read.

[tweakophyte]

mechman wrote:

I'd say it all looks as it should, considering the color of the two screens. About the only thing you have to answer to is whites, and how far you want performance to improve in ambient lighting.

Whites are not as big of a deal as most people say they are. There will always be those that say that a gray screen produces muddy whites, and it's true to an extent. But you only notice when there's a white screen to compare them with. Remove the white screen and the muddy whites seem to disappear with it.

Still haven't figured out th floating mount yet, huh tweak? I thought you were gonna use wire last I read.

I move slow on these things... with two young kids I don't have much time for projects. Last time I did I got analysis paralysis (hence that post). I do have a good feeling for what I am going to do, and yes, it will float.

[mechman]

tweakophyte wrote:

I move slow on these things... with two young kids I don't have much time for projects. Last time I did I got analysis paralysis (hence that post). I do have a good feeling for what I am going to do, and yes, it will float.

I hear ya! I have three... well one young kid and two girls that are getting near the teenage stage.

[wbassett]

mechman wrote:

I'd say it all looks as it should, considering the color of the two screens. About the only thing you have to answer to is whites, and how far you want performance to improve in ambient lighting.

Whites are not as big of a deal as most people say they are. There will always be those that say that a gray screen produces muddy whites, and it's true to an extent. But you only notice when there's a white screen to compare them with. Remove the white screen and the muddy whites seem to disappear with it.

Like these whites on a darker N8 gray?


Still haven't figured out th floating mount yet, huh tweak? I thought you were gonna use wire last I read.

I totally agree that it depends on any reference points as well as the screen. Some do look muddy, or even without any other reference, bluish or just off. That really isn't the case or problem with Do-Able.

Mech, do you still have a sample of Do-Able? I would have swore we did readings on it before but I can't find them. The reading that Skyman has are the old reading done to C and not D65, so that might be were some confusion is happening. Tweak, Do-Able doesn't have any blue lean that I am aware of but we will get it retested. For those lucky enough to get it, Do-Able is a direct replacement for DW and performance will be virtually the same if not exactly the same.

I'd recommend recalibrating to it and then watching movies on it for a day or two and then see how you like it. If after that you still don't like certain things about it... paint it up with your favorite method!

[mechman]

wbassett wrote:

Mech, do you still have a sample of Do-Able? I would have swore we did readings on it before but I can't find them. The reading that Skyman has are the old reading done to C and not D65, so that might be were some confusion is happening.

No. I never had a sample of Do-Able.

[wbassett]

Not sure why I thought you did... oh well, I'll get a piece to you for a new updated reading.