Hanging a wooden frame straight onto a drywall?

**clark17** · **05-15-09, 01:00 PM**

What would be the best way to hang a wooden frame onto a DIY painted drywall?

I've already bought 3+m of black velvet (possibly not the best as it is a little bit strachable but it should do). As for frame I'm thinking about using 3" - 4" poplar or maybe mdf. (wrapped in black velvet). I might go for a butt joint assembly.

I was thinking about using 'french cleat' technique, but that would require 2 wood layers, which I want to avoid.

**Andysu** · **05-15-09, 02:19 PM**

Well for starters you might need what us called spirit level followed be chalk line or maybe laser measurement to get straight horizontal line.

My friend uses the chalk line. Just measure out the area and get someone to hold the other end and prick-the-cord and bingo the line will produce straight chalk line.

**tonyvdb** · **05-15-09, 05:14 PM**

Do you want this to be removable? If not a container of construction adhesive would hold it up just fine.

**clark17** · **05-15-09, 09:42 PM**

thanks guys,

I think I'd rather go with a removable solution, just in case if my little ones use some crayons and I will have to repaint the screen or something

On avs forums one of the guys suggested to use 'hangman' hardware to hang it.

http://www.hangmanproducts.com/hangm...tructions.html

My only concern is the gap between the frame and wall, I just want to avoid any light leakage coming out of it. Perhaps there is nothing to worry about

**Harpmaker** · **05-15-09, 10:43 PM**

When using the pre-made metal hangers I don't think the frame would be very far away from the wall. Even if light does make it's way through the gap, I would think that something as simple as applying some door or window sealant tape (thin foam rubber tape with adhesive on one side) would fix that.

**clark17** · **05-16-09, 12:26 AM**

Quote:

Harpmaker wrote:

When using the pre-made metal hangers I don't think the frame would be very far away from the wall. Even if light does make it's way through the gap, I would think that something as simple as applying some door or window sealant tape (thin foam rubber tape with adhesive on one side) would fix that.

Thanks Don

**Prof.** · **05-16-09, 07:48 PM**

The easiest of all...VELCRO..Industrial strength..
Just a short piece near each corner..
The good thing with Velcro is that you can re-position the border if it's not quite square..

**Harpmaker** · **05-16-09, 08:58 PM**

For relatively permanent things I have not had good luck with Velcro, even the supposed Industrial Strength stuff. In hot weather it tends to soften enough so it loses it's holding power; the Velcro holds but not the adhesive on the back. That is just my own experience, your mileage may very.

**Prof.** · **05-16-09, 09:15 PM**

The same thing used to happen to me as well..The adhesive does let go after awhile, so I now staple it as well...no more problem..

**clark17** · **05-17-09, 09:44 PM**

Thanks for your ideas... I might just nail the sucker to the wall !!!

As for Velcro, more likely I will use it for the masking...

**1canuck2** · **07-16-09, 03:02 PM**

If you drilled some small holes at an angle in the back of the frame, couldn't you just mount it on some screws screwed into the studs? The resultant holes in the drywall would not be huge, so if you later want to take it down its only a little patching job to cover up.

I have been pondering this issue as well.

I was thinking of those dry-mounted pictures that have a channel routed into the back that a regular countersunk screw fits into. If you measured it out well, could it work?

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