Minwax Polycrylic for topcoat

[rookie88]

Has anyone used Minwax Polycrylic for a topcoat? Is there a different aluminum to use instead of the roof coating that will work the same as the FolkArt pearl medium? I plan on using Kilz2 as a starting point for reference then moving up to Walmart matched SW7071. My budget is TIGHT and my PJ is an Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 720. Looking at a screen size around 100"+/-.





Thanks

Steve

[mechman]

Not a good idea! See this thread for more viable options. I'd recommend the Valspar Clear Protector in a 50/50 mix of satin and flat.

Why do you need a topcoat? I'd definitely skip the pearl too! Give that one to the kiddies to use in art projects!

mech

[rookie88]

The paint I'm going to use comes in a flat base so I thought that I would need a protective finish(I have kids but they know better than to touch the screen)but you never know what could happen. I'm starting with the "cheap" stuff first then progressing on if need be. I've read the info on the pearlescent on how it changes light, so I thought there would be a way to incorporate aluminum flakes in with the paint or clear coat. Am I wrong to think that the aluminum will give a better picture(brighter)? This is all new to me and I've never tried this before, knowing I'm not the only new kid on the block it still makes me nervous. I guess it is all trial and error and knowing what looks good to you won't look good to others, but hey it's worth the $30 if you get somthing right the first time.


steve

[wbassett]

rookie88 wrote:

Has anyone used Minwax Polycrylic for a topcoat? Is there a different aluminum to use instead of the roof coating that will work the same as the FolkArt pearl medium? I plan on using Kilz2 as a starting point for reference then moving up to Walmart matched SW7071. My budget is TIGHT and my PJ is an Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 720. Looking at a screen size around 100"+/-.





Thanks

Steve

I understand the tight budget, but do yourself a huge favor and skip the Walmart brand paint. If you mean you are going to go with Dutch Boys (most Walmarts carry Dutch Boys paints), then that's different. In fact Sherwin William makes Dutch Boys, so you should be able to get an exact match of any Sherwin Williams color.

We've used/tested folkart and there is a huge differene between pearls and aluminum. They have very different properties and characteristics.

It's good to hear you're planning on doing a baseline on a white reference and not just jumping into a gray screen or even a white screen with gain or other components. Calibration really is key. You can have the best projector on the market, best screen, ideal room setting, but improper calibration can bring everything to its knees.

Welcome to the Shack and don't be shy, ask any questions you may have.

[cynical2]

Mech/Bill: Since he's interested in reflective coatings, what about having him order 2 bottles of the AA and mixing it at 4:1 with Dutch Boy "County Fairgrounds 32-R-2", which has an RGB of 227, 212, 200?

The values for your 4:1 base (meh's headache #1) were 234, 221, 209...normalizing to blue, yours are +25, +12, 0. And, your final mix ended up slightly red deficient (189, 191, 191).

County Fairgrounds, normalized to blue, is +27, +12, 0. So, it should creep a tiny bit more towards neutral than your current mix. Getting the AA is $7/bottle + shipping at dickblick. Two 4oz bottles mixed with a quart of base paint, and he'd be all set with a BW alternate that I would think would be just fine...and much better than the Folkart pearl...for about $30 total.

Anyway, it's another option...mech, I know you've done a lot of work on getting the neutrality right, but have you also tested the AA panel with your pj?

To answer one of your original questions, rookie...yes, I did the pearlizing medium thing for my 1st screen. The color shifted red, but I was able to calibrate out of it. After a couple of months, I changed to a known OTS neutral grey (True Value Winter Mountain), and I felt that the image improved significantly. Even my kids commented on it, and they didn't even know I had painted. They just said "What did you do to the screen, it looks a lot better?" I learned from that experience that even though you can often use your pj to adjust the picture and deal with color issues, it's far better (from the standpoint of image quality, and overall color accuracy) to start with a neutral screen and not have to change what's going on at the projector to compensate for an issue introduced by the screen.

[mechman]

cynical2 wrote:

Mech/Bill: Since he's interested in reflective coatings, what about having him order 2 bottles of the AA and mixing it at 4:1 with Dutch Boy "County Fairgrounds 32-R-2", which has an RGB of 227, 212, 200?

The values for your 4:1 base (meh's headache #1) were 234, 221, 209...normalizing to blue, yours are +25, +12, 0. And, your final mix ended up slightly red deficient (189, 191, 191).

County Fairgrounds, normalized to blue, is +27, +12, 0. So, it should creep a tiny bit more towards neutral than your current mix. Getting the AA is $7/bottle + shipping at dickblick. Two 4oz bottles mixed with a quart of base paint, and he'd be all set with a BW alternate that I would think would be just fine...and much better than the Folkart pearl...for about $30 total.

Anyway, it's another option...mech, I know you've done a lot of work on getting the neutrality right, but have you also tested the AA panel with your pj?

To answer one of your original questions, rookie...yes, I did the pearlizing medium thing for my 1st screen. The color shifted red, but I was able to calibrate out of it. After a couple of months, I changed to a known OTS neutral grey (True Value Winter Mountain), and I felt that the image improved significantly. Even my kids commented on it, and they didn't even know I had painted. They just said "What did you do to the screen, it looks a lot better?" I learned from that experience that even though you can often use your pj to adjust the picture and deal with color issues, it's far better (from the standpoint of image quality, and overall color accuracy) to start with a neutral screen and not have to change what's going on at the projector to compensate for an issue introduced by the screen.

Nope no panels yet. I'm trying to dial it in a little closer to neutral yet. I probably should throw my intentions out in the further investigations thread.

With regards to the County Fairgrounds, give it a shot!

Jim, as always, great advice!

mech

[rookie88]

mech,bill,jim,

What is the AA and where can I find it? Do I really need a reflective coating? Will it help with the picture quality in a noticable difference to be beneficial or should I not even worry about it? Is the Valspar found at Lowe's? Can the 4:1 work with the Gray Screen? Is there plain aluminum flakes out there to add to gray coat or Valspar instead of the paints? Would glitter flakes work?

[wbassett]

AA is a Createx brand called Auto Air Aluminum. There are several grades, we are using the fine grade. You can get it online many places, Dick Blick is one source.

[mechman]

The Auto Air is not 100% finished yet. It's sitting at 99%. You do not want to mix AA and poly and apply it as a topcoat. We've tried that with HE558, AA, and straight aluminum. It doesn't work. After we finish up the Auto Air and our next project - code named 'white killer' - we may venture into topcoats. Right now I know that I don't see a need for them. If you need to protect your screen though, go get a quart each of Valspar Clear Protector in both Satin and Flat. Mix them 50/50 and roll it over your paint. Valspar is found at Lowe's by the faux finishes.

If you're going to go the aluminum route, buy some Auto Air Aluminum fine form Dick Blick's online and wait for Tuesday. Get 8oz.

mech