IR Repeater installation

**Phil M** · **06-18-06, 08:57 AM**

I was asked to share with the forum how to install an IR repeater system, here is how I did it - I'm sure there are lots of others:

Having an IR repeater system is one of the most satisfying and easiest projects to carry out, you basically need a repeater, receiver and senders to each unit you want to control.

Repeater
Using a standard outlet box a repeater is a device that picks up the signal from the remote and sends it to the receiver, it has to be 'in line of site' of the remote. I mounted my repeater above the screen, and used Cat5 cable to connect to the receiver. The attached link is a typical source and what I used:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=182-310

Receiver
The receiver is a surface mounted box that takes the signal from the repeater and sends the IR command to the components to be controlled, it need to be reasonably close to the equipment. In addition it needs a power supply. My receiver is surface mounted, the one I used operates 4 pieces of equipment and to increase this they can be daisy chained together with one power supply.
Link to source:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=182-315
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=182-317

Emitter
The final task is to stick an emitter, using 2 sided stick tabs supplied with the emitter, over the IR window of the equipment and plug them into the receiver.

Source:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=182-305

Since building my system I later discovered that you can buy double and triple senders, which eliminate the need to have more than one receiver and save money. In addition the 3.5mm plug is standard, and you can mix and match components from different manufacturers.

Well this was my approach, please post other ideas, mods etc.

**Tommy** · **06-18-06, 09:58 AM**

What is the IR FLASHER w/6' LEAD? Does it work the same as the INFRARED REPEATER?

**Phil M** · **06-18-06, 10:13 AM**

Tommy, if I interpret your question correctly the answer is no - they serve different functions, and any system I'm aware of needs all 3 devices.

**Sonnie** · **06-18-06, 01:29 PM**

Cool grits Phil... nice info here.

Tommy, this could be your answer.

It seems like if the repeater, which repeats what the receiver picks up from the remote, is located in line of sight to the equipment then the flashers would not be needed... no?

**Steve Williamson** · **06-18-06, 05:45 PM**

Sonnie you are correct:

Remote control ----- LOS ------> Repeater

Repeater ------- Cat 5 ----------> Receiver

Receiver ------- 3.5mm plugs and cable IR flasher --------> AV equipment

Only the Repeater needs to be visible in the room, during construction, I am equiping all our rooms with an IR network in case we need to use it later on. Only requires 1 run of Cat 5, even less because it uses 2 strands but I don't know if other sources on the same run will cause interference.

The other repeater that is useful is the through cabinet if you do not want a standard power box fitting

**bricor** · **06-20-06, 11:34 AM**

I think the terminology being used is a little confusing so I thought I'd try and make it clearer.

(maybe it's just me but I was having a hard time following)
The IR receiver is what is visible in the room and what you point the remote at. It can be mounted in a box, in a cabinet or be a table top type. It relays the IR signal to the repeater or connecting block. From there, the signal goes out via the IR emitters which stick on the front of your equipment. The type of connecting block shown above requires the IR emitters because it doesn't have an IR blaster. If it had an IR blaster feature, you don't have to use emitters provided the blaster is in range of the equipment.

**Wayne A. Pflughaupt** · **06-27-06, 12:46 PM**

Great info, Phil!

We took a slightly different tact with our IR system. When we moved into our new place last year, the only place to set up our system was on an outside wall. The problem was, most of the wall was large windows with a view of the back yard. Obviously we wanted to keep the view, so our hulking three-piece entertainment center had to go. The only thing that remained up-front was the TV on a table. We found an ideal place for the electronics off to one side behind the sofa, but obviously that makes it difficult to remote control the system. Thus, an IR repeater system was needed so we could operate the entire system by pointing the system remote at the logical place – i.e., straight ahead at the TV.

Since we’re talking about our living room and not a dedicated room, a conspicuous in-wall-mounted repeater like Phil used was undesirable. We went with a system from Xantech that used a small table-top receiver (sitting next to the TV) that’s about 3” wide and 1” high:

Xantech also makes in-wall receivers like the one Phil mentioned, for people who need that option. (As Phil noted, the Buffalo brand calls them “repeaters.”) Like Phil’s in-wall model, our tabletop unit had a bright LED that lit up to show it was receiving a signal from the remote. I found that to be really distracting, since it was right next to the television, so I covered it with a piece of black electrical tape.

Whichever kind of receiver you go with – tabletop or in-wall - it converts the IR signal from the remote to an electrical signal that can travel on wiring. Here’s another view showing the table-top receiver with its attached cable, and the central power block it connects to (which we’ll cover shortly):

An obstacle many people will have with their IR receiver is getting a cable long enough to reach the equipment rack. In our case, that required a 30-40 ft. run from the TV to where the equipment was located. Fortunately, the connections most of these systems use are standard 1/8” audio jacks and plugs, like the ones used for headphones for portable playback devices. Depending on the model or brand, either stereo or mono versions will be used, or a combination of both (our system uses both). Long cable runs are not a problem; according to Xantech’s website, using 18-gauge wire you can run a cable from a receiver up to one mile!

Being experienced at soldering, I just ordered a spool of cable from Parts Express, along with the necessary in-line plugs and jacks, and made my own extension cable. For those who can’t solder, I’m confident the vendors of this equipment can supply long lengths of pre-terminated cabling.

What Phil’s system from Buffalo calls a “receiver,” Xantech calls a “power block.” Either way, it’s the central connection point of the IR repeater system. The cable from the in-wall or tabletop receiver plugs into the power block, as does a power supply, typically an AC adapter. Here’s a picture of a Xantech power block:

The hard-wired IR emitters also plug into the power block. There are a number of varieties, but basically one emitter serves each piece of equipment that needs remote control. These emitters from Xantech have an adhesive surface that allow you to attach them directly to the component’s face:

Single emitter

Double emitter (two emitters from a single plug on the power block):

In researching for our installation, I learned that there are two types of emitters. The ones that attach directly to the component typically are low powered emitters. You can easily identify them because they blink red when they emit a signal. I found the prospect of attaching a bunch of hard-wired emitters to all of my components to be highly unappealing, not to mention a major hassle – there’s way too much cabling required for a home theater system as it is.

Fortunately I learned about high-powered “flooding” emitters. I could not find one from Xantech, so I took a gamble and bought one from another brand, and it worked. I later found out that some IR emitters that come with VCRs (to control a cable box) are the flooding variety, so if you can dig one up you can save a few bucks. They also use the same 1/8” plugs the repeater systems use – at least the ones that came with my JVC VCR’s did.

So, if your equipment rack is exposed or behind glass doors, you might want to look into a flooding emitter. We fortunately have an end table about 10’ away from our equipment rack, so I hid the emitter in a flower arrangement. It works perfectly, and it’s really nice to have a single emitter operating the entire system. Of course, since the emitter is hard wired, you’ll have to find a way to hide the cable. Under-carpet is probably the best way, or even easier, under a throw rug. I had a wire laid when we had our hardwood floor put in, so I was covered.

As bricor noted, this stuff can get confusing, so here's a wiring diagram for a typical IR system that should be helpful:

Regards,
Wayne

**brucek** · **06-27-06, 02:09 PM**

Yeah, I use the same system Wayne. It works great. I installed it out of sheer laziness. I found that much of my stuff required pointing the remote directly at the front panel. This meant I had to lift my arm in the air and point and push. Totally inconvenient, especially if I press a remote Macro button that takes a few seconds to fully execute. With the Xantech system I can push the remote button while the remote is pointed anywhere in the room since the receiver is very sensitive.

Some of my equipment has an IR jack on the rear panel to plug directly into with the 1/8" connector, so you can avoid the emitter. I didn't mind the sticky emitters though.

Here's where I got mine. the price was good and they were no hassle.

Here's another good diagram of the system.

brucek

**Wayne A. Pflughaupt** · **06-27-06, 02:25 PM**

I love those cool diagrams you do, brucek! And that is a good price for the system, I think I paid $100.

Regards,
Wayne

**brucek** · **06-27-06, 02:54 PM**

Quote:

I love those cool diagrams

hehe, can't take credit for this one wayne. I scanned it from a small manual I found on the unit. Neat diagram though......

**reed.hannebaum** · **06-29-06, 10:35 PM**

Another brand you may want to consider is the MyExtender for $27.95 http://www.mytvstore.com/product_id_010.html. The receiver and flooding type emitter communicate via RF, so you don't have to run a cable between them.

I was hesitant to purchase this setup because of the cheap price, but it works great. My receiver and emitter are about 75 ft. from each other and there have been no RF interference or communication problems.

**Wayne A. Pflughaupt** · **06-30-06, 08:15 PM**

I tried similar units from both Best Buy and Radio Shack, and neither one worked worth a flip. Great that you found one that worked, Reed! Wish I had known about that one.

Regards,
Wayne

**reed.hannebaum** · **06-30-06, 10:35 PM**

Quote:

Wayne A. Pflughaupt wrote:

I tried similar units from both Best Buy and Radio Shack, and neither one worked worth a flip. Great that you found one that worked, Reed! Wish I had known about that one.

Regards,
Wayne

I had a typo in my post; the distance between the units is 35ft. not 75ft, but none the less I have had no problems with this setup. My computer desk is in back of my primary listening seat and 24ft. from my TV where the receiver is. My Yamaha remote has no problem communicating with the receiver. The emitter is approximately 15ft. from my equipment, and again no IR communications problem.

**rolyasm** · **07-19-06, 04:48 PM**

Here is a review from another forum regarding a RF extender. The reviewer thought it was the cat's meow.
Roly
Wireless RF Remote Control Extender Review

**Tommy** · **02-26-08, 02:06 PM**

Hello all,

After researching it a bit, I was terribly mixed up in the different terminology. It seems the named devices were interchangable depending on which site I went too. (repeater, sensors, targets, hubs, recivers, emitters, flashers etc)

If I understand this correctly (please correct me if Im wrong) I will need to

1) Install sensor(s) in the front wall around the screen

2) These sensors would be directly connected to the cat5 wire running to my equipment rack

3) In the equipment cabinet the Cat5 wire would then be connected to a hub or reciver

4) The hub/receiver then runs emitters wires that are directly connected to each of the components in the rack.

For my room I would need to add some type of in-wall or flush mount sensor(s) to the front wall around my projetor screen. Something like Phil's or preferably even smaller. I don't want any type of exposed boxes or devices sitting around the front of the room.

01) Is one sensor enough in the front of the room or should I put say at least one on each side of the 110" screen (Left & Right sides, Top and Bottom)?

02) I already have extra Cat5 cable ran from the front of my room to the back equipment rack. Do I need any specific hardware (plugs, connectors etc) in order to connect the wires on either to the sensors or the other end with the hub?

03) Is there any repeater systems that are recommended for purchase?

The IR kits Ive looked at online all had repeater/reciver boxes included to go in the front of the room but I would need the in-wall type sensors.

**Wayne A. Pflughaupt** · **02-26-08, 06:44 PM**

Quote:

01) Is one sensor enough in the front of the room or should I put say at least one on each side of the 110" screen (Left & Right sides, Top and Bottom)?

Top or bottom should be fine, since you’ll be prone to point at the center of the screen.

Quote:

02) I already have extra Cat5 cable ran from the front of my room to the back equipment rack. Do I need any specific hardware (plugs, connectors etc) in order to connect the wires on either to the sensors or the other end with the hub?

As the pictures in Posts #1, #7 and #8 show, typically connections are made with mono or stereo 1/8” (3.5) plugs. You’ll have to solder them to your cat 5 cable. Not sure about the connectors for an in-wall sensor, I’m sure the vendor sites linked above will give info on that.

Quote:

03) Is there any repeater systems that are recommended for purchase?

Umm, that’s what the topic of this thread is...

Regards,
Wayne

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