In-wall or standard speaker wire?

[Jodean]

Hi there. My first post here....great forum.

Im working on my first home theater room. Ive had the basic surround systems and all that for years but this is my first room.

Im doing a BenQ W500 HD projector that i just got and using a Harmen reciever and jbl surround setup.

I ran 1 1/2" pvc pipe to all speaker and projector locations incase i ever need to pull any new wire or anything to those locations. Should i still use the in-wall wire or just do the standard speaker cable. Ive already read up on wire and found what i need at monoprice and will probrably get 12 gauge even though only 16 is required. My max run is 40' and im doing the standard 100w per channel.

Mono had the standard in stock and the in-wall should be instock soon. Not much price difference since i only need 250' (its like $3 difference)

One other thing that i probrably should post somewhere else...but.....does anyone run a ups backup power for their projector incase of power outage during usage to cool the bulb down?? Just wondering ill probrably use this daily to watch tv and movies. Does it hurt the bulb that much if it doesnt get the cool down period?

Thanks in advance.

[Anthony]

Welcome to the shack.

I have never been fully clear on the conduit/in-wall code rules. If it is in-wall bare (no conduit) then it must be CL2/CL3 or one of the other listings (riser rated, plenum rated, etc). However, if it is in appropriate conduit some people just run regular wire in the conduit. I am not an electricial, just an installer, so I always err on the side of caution and run everything in-wall rated, even if it's in conduit.

As far as the wire goes, there will be no difference, for the same gauge and strand count. Higher strand count keeps the resistance of the wire lower in higher current situations and makes the wire more flexible. If it's the same brand of cable, but just in-wall/regular as the difference, then the wire will probably be exactly alike, just with a different jacket covering.

as for power back up: I have been thinking about getting one for my projector as well, but alas, it's still just in the conditioner only. I have had a few blackouts that had me worried, but for the most part I have not needed the battery. Monster and APC both make home theater power backup solutions for this exact problem. Make sure you go that route and not a computer backup. The computer back UPS are notoriously noisy (hum, some have fans, etc). APC went through great pains to get a UPS for home theater that was quiet, could take a large current draw, and that did not need a fan (or had a very quiet one).

good luck.
anthony

[Jodean]

Ok sounds good.

I like working with the flat wire and will probrably do that. I just dont like the round stuff even though it would probrably pull better.

Im thinking of running wire with no terminal plates to eliminate more connections. Is that a good idea? Id just drill a hole in blank wall plate or use a cable one without the connector. Id do the same at the reciever end.

Should i still use the bananna clips at the speaker and reciever? Again that would add another connection, best to solder i suppose.

Thanks

Joe

[Anthony]

is the flat wire in-wall rated? I prefer the round because it pulls so well.

As to terminations and such, I have wall plates everywhere and have noticed no signal loss, however if you can get away with a pure, straight run, that's obviously better. Some company sells wall plates that are just a slanted oval opening to allow wires to just run out (no termination).

In my install, I needed to be able to move the speakers for cleaning, so quick-detatch was a requirement. Also, it does look nicer, but if the openings will be hidden, then no worries.

Good luck.

[eugovector]

For $3, I sure wouldn't risk it. You don't want your insurance company giving you grief if, god forbid, anything were to happen.

[Anthony]

here are those wall plates I was talking about:
http://www.av-outlet.com/en-us/dept_257.html

They are the only place I have seen that product.

and I agree: always go with in-wall rated unless a building inspector or master electrician tells you it's okay to do otherwise. Else you may have a nasty legal fight if the wrong wiring acts like a fuse and carries a fire throughout the house (which is the sole reason for special CL/plenum ratings on wire).

[goodsound]

One thing to also consider would be the amount of shielding available to which ever cable you choose. Over a longer run you will fight resistance and interference of a greater and greater magnitude as the length increases (also, your wire may run across other power lines etc...). One side benefit to some of the in-wall varieties is a double jacket of insulation. Depending on your preference for speaker wire, this may offer greater protection from interference. Also, given the large variety of cable manufactures available, the costs reflect bulk purchasing keeping the over all costs relatively lower than sometimes buying high end speaker wire and running it through a wall. Also, note the double jacket helps keep wire free from moisture degradation.

Given these points and those of the posters above (code violations) it seems a safer bet to install in-wall rated cables regardless of how easy it may or may not be to actually pull the wire.