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Equalization of TC-2000 sub.

5K views 41 replies 2 participants last post by  krisdz 
#1 ·
My sub chain: Outlaw 990 (LFE XLR out), BFD 1124P (XLR in) (XLR out), EP-2500 bridged (XLR in)
The Outlaw 990 has XLR outputs but I can’t find the XLR outputs level spec in the manual.
It is: +16 dBu at +4 db or +2 dBV at -10 dBV?
Any one knows those parameters?
I guess I can experiment with the switch on the back of BFD (+4 -10) but it will be not sincerity.
The next concern is my sound card, how good it is? Good enough?
How can I reference the sound card?
I read those posting about using the BFD, Room EQ and CM-140. They are strait forward and thank you very much for the enlighten. Especially the BFD setup now is clear and easy.
I will be appreciated if someone will share hands-on comments about the whole process of EQ a sub
 
#27 ·
That what I get.
Not too good I'm afraid.

You need to put the target line up on your graph and make an attempt to average around that line. You can't drop from 20Hz as you've done.....

Set the crossover in REW and then set the target at 75dB. Be sure to press the Set Target Level once REW is calibrated to 75dB.

Follow the target.....

brucek
 
#29 ·
It looks a lot better. You do have enormous output below 20Hz, but the BFD can't do much about that and there's not a great amount of information below 20Hz. Movies with synthesized signal down that low will nicely shake your home.... You can chalk your rise to 14Hz a really aggressive house curve. :)

Now you have to add your mains and see how well they integrate into that curve. Hopefully they'll come in around the 70-75dB range and not cause any new peaks or dips. If they do, you have phase, time and filters to work with....

BTW, what size enclosure is the TC-2K in?

brucek
 
#30 ·
The TC-2000 DVC is mounted in the 320l (Net) sonotube with both ends flared 6” 14.5 Hz port.
It was built on the base of many proven designs posted in DIY areas. (Thanks everybody and Home Theatre Shack). That means cap thickness, dumping materials, size etc. See attached pictures.
I still want use my mains lower end. To do so I need disconnect my woofers from the rest of the drivers in the box and put the BFD in between. I purchased my BFD for $50 on eBay. Maybe someday I’ll do so.
What you think?
 

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#31 ·
I still want use my mains lower end. To do so I need disconnect my woofers from the rest of the drivers in the box and put the BFD in between.
The BFD is a line level device. The drivers in a speaker box are speaker level devices. They don't don't play well together..... sorry, that idea is non starter...... can't be done.

brucek
 
#33 ·
I need EP1500 + BFD to power my lower woofers in stereo mode right?
Mmmm, well, the EP1500 is also a line level input device. What do you propose to drive it with? And if you were able, the EP1500's gain would have to match the gain of the receivers amplifiers......

Do you have better solution in mind? Or my big mains are wasted
My solution is to set your mains to small in the receiver and leave it at that. They're not wasted, they still enter into the mix down to and below the crossover.
My own mains retail at $11K, and I don't feel they're wasted by using them as small. The very bottom end of a woofer isn't what makes or breaks a good speaker........

brucek
 
#34 ·
I have two Bryston SST (Mono bridged) driving the mains. My pre/proc has ability to split the output.
So I will basically feed the EP1500 with the same signal which is going to Brystons. But let me try what you suggested. My mains cost “only” $5k twenty years ago and were one of the top at that time in Europe. Since there I replace all the caps and tweeters with new models.
 
#35 ·
I have two Bryston SST (Mono bridged) driving the mains. My pre/proc has ability to split the output.
So I will basically feed the EP1500 with the same signal which is going to Brystons.
I use all Bryston amps too. Instead of the pristine signal that your Brystons supply, you're going to feed a BFD and EP1500 instead.............. shame on you..... :sad2:

brucek
 
#37 ·
Here it is as good as you get. (In my opinion after few hours of tweaking)
Sub and Mains together, stereo, no sound fields
Crossover @:
1. 40 Hz
2. 60 Hz
3. 80 Hz
4. 100 Hz
How it looks for you?
It sounds marvellous. Very deep, long bass. I can’t find difference between 60 & 80 however 40 and 100 sounds not that deep.
I used filter #12 as you suggested for the house curve and I still have 3 filters available.
We done here?
 

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#38 ·
Brucek,
You were absolutely right! The interference from mains was obstructing the entire sound. I know that I was missing something but never have time to investigate.
Cutting the mains bottom and control it trough BFD was the key.
Even the room curves are still rough. The sound is now richer, deeper and panoramic.
I didn’t know that the frequency adjustment below 200 Hz is so important.
I guess, good mains can take care of them self above 200 Hz
It is incredible how knowledge can help. I’m right now on completely different sound quality level.
Thank you again
Kris
 
#40 ·
I was listening to all my fevered CD and DVD-A and it sound amazing now.
It is anything what I can do to improve it more?
For example the BDF or EP2500 don’t have phase change.
How I can accomplish that?
Could you explain to me why the 80 look better then 60?
You think I’m annoying?
 
#41 ·
Could you explain to me why the 80 look better then 60?
Well, I think as we discussed, that the mains have less influence at your problem ~75Hz area if they are crossed at 80 rather than 60, and it shows that the peak at that point is lower and the mains appear to mix into the sub a bit better too.

It is anything what I can do to improve it more?
I don't think so, others might. I'm not a fan of adding a mess of filters to try and get the response to absolutely track the target. You simply won't hear the difference.

For example the BDF or EP2500 don’t have phase change.
How I can accomplish that?
Distance delay for the sub in the receiver is a very close approximation to a phase control. You can adjust it in and out if you think you need some phase change. I don't see anything that looks like phase problems though.

brucek
 
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