HL-R5067W hard to turn on Discuss HL-R5067W hard to turn on in the Brand Forums forum; HL-R5067W hard to turn on When I turn on my TV it tries to come on, then shuts off and tries to come on again. ...

**NOYB111** · **11-13-08, 02:20 PM**

When I turn on my TV it tries to come on, then shuts off and tries to come on again. It does this three times and then the Timer Lamp/Stand By Temp lights flash. Eventually I can get it to come on. When I first try to turn it on I listened for the color wheel and I here a ticking sound like something is spinning and then when the TV finally does come on I hear a definite spinning sound but dont know if its the fan or color wheel. I replaced the lamp so I am pretty sure its not that. It was doing it before I replaced the lamp and hence, that is why I replaced the lamp. Does this sound more like a lamp ballast or color wheel issue? I am leaning towards ballast... Once it is on I have no issues. Sometimes when I turn it off it decides to turn itself back on which is also why I think its the ballast. If the color wheel had problems spinning I wouldnt think this would have anything to do with making it come back on once it had been running. Sounds more like a voltage issue.

**lcaillo** · **11-13-08, 03:00 PM**

Please do not post in multiple threads. I have already answered your previous question in the other thread then I find that you have a new one here. I see nothing here about the set coming on by itself as you described in the other thread. Without clear, consise descriptions of the symptoms, it is impossible to be of much help.

**NOYB111** · **11-13-08, 03:03 PM**

I posted a separate thread because this thread was old and I didnt know if anyone would see it anymore.

**lcaillo** · **11-13-08, 03:25 PM**

This is the new thread. I monitor the posts daily and it is rare for me to miss them for longer than a day or so. Always start a new thread for a new problem and be as detailed and specific as possible in describing the set and the problem.

**NOYB111** · **11-13-08, 03:37 PM**

OK thank you. Obviously I am new at this and just trying to trouble shoot my TV without paying $$$ to have it fixed. I have been trouble shooting this afternoon and here is as much detail as I can think to add...

HL-R5067W

Symptoms - Does not come on easily. Turns on and off while trying to come on. I can here the color wheel spinning at low RPM before it fully comes on. While it is trying to come on I can also here faintly, what only can be described as low tone beeps and squeaks. (not mechanical sounds but computer type sounds)

* once TV is on, it works fine and I have no issues (if it were a color wheel problem I would think I would have more issues once it was on)
* once TV has been in use and turned off, it sometimes comes back on immediately by itself (again, cant imagine a color wheel issue would have any affect on the TV coming on after being shut off)
* once TV has been in use, I can turn it off and back on without the issues (meaning problems occur from a cold start)
* light engine was replaced when TV was 6 months old.

Would the color wheel start spinning full RPM immediately or only after light comes on?

I am leaning towards buying the ballast and trying that unless someone thinks it is definitely not that...

**lcaillo** · **11-13-08, 04:37 PM**

The ballast would not account for the set turning back on. There is likely something to the pattern that you are missing.

The color wheel shold spin up to full speed right away.

My guess is that your color wheel is going bad and there may be some other issue as well. It may be necessary to have a tech who is very familiar with these models diagnose and repair the unit. Detailed troubleshooting is beyond the scope of this forum.

**NOYB111** · **11-14-08, 08:57 AM**

If I were to replace the color wheel, are there any settings that need to be adjusted after the replacement is done?

Also I am curious, would a failing color wheel have an impact on the brightness of the colors? Meaning, does the picture quality degrade as it is failing or is it all or nothing?

Thanks...

**lcaillo** · **11-14-08, 11:10 AM**

Yes, there are adjustments to the color wheel index and in some cases a jumper setting needs to be changed if the color wheel replacement is a different type.

**NOYB111** · **11-14-08, 12:32 PM**

Is there any place I can learn or read about the adjustments needed to the color wheel index? I ordered the color wheel specific for my TV and Chassis. Would I still require changes to the color wheel index?

**lcaillo** · **11-14-08, 12:41 PM**

With Samsung it is hard to tell. The suffix on your model mumber is very important to getting the right part, but even then, they make changes in production and parts after production. The only place that I know of to get the info is from the Samsung service web site and their tech support, which is mostly only available to ASCs and qualified servicers. Sometimes the info comes with the part.

**NOYB111** · **11-14-08, 02:57 PM**

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions... One more (for now!

)

Would a bad ballast have any affect on the color wheel spinning up? Or is that strictly regulating the power to the lamp?

Also, I turned on the TV today and listened for the wheel and it makes that quiet ticking noise and doesnt spin up to speed, but I gave the TV a quick slap on the back and it came on first try this time.. Makes me think even more the wheel bearings are going or something... What do you think?

**lcaillo** · **11-14-08, 04:28 PM**

I don't mind answering questions, but I already told you that the lamp enable does not occur until the color wheel spins up. Therefore, no, a ballast cannot cause a problem with the color wheel not starting.

The color wheel is a high failure part in these sets. There are other areas that fail as well. You may have more than one problem, you may just have a bad color wheel.

**NOYB111** · **11-16-08, 03:35 PM**

Would you or anyone else reading this have any idea how someone would know if they need to remove the jumper when installing the new color wheel? I wonder if any documentation comes with it...

**NOYB111** · **11-19-08, 10:47 AM**

Sweet! I installed the new color wheel in less than an hour. It was actually rather easy. Just needed to pay attention to the wires you disconnect and reconnect. I fired up the TV and it came right on without a hitch. I could hear the color wheel spin in at full RPM immediately, unlike before. I turned it off, let it sit a few minutes and it came right on again. I think I may have got it! I am 99% positive it was the color wheel since it now works and also when I took out the old one, I spun the wheel with my finger and it definitely had drag on it, and would stop almost as soon as I spun it. Before I installed the new one, I spun it and it kept going for about 15 seconds on its own. I am pretty sure the bearings must have been going in the old one. Too bad there is no way to know without removing it! Well all is good. I will report back if I have any problems. Didnt need to adjust anything, just installed the new one and all is good so far.

Didnt mess with any jumpers either.

FYI for future readers. Inside TV says it was built FEB2006. Chassis was L6, new part number was BP96-01103A model HLR5067wax/xaa. Chassis number is on the back panel of the TV. Replaced old with new and did not change any jumpers or settings in the service menu.

Thank you all for your feedback!

**lcaillo** · **11-19-08, 01:40 PM**

Glad you were able to resolve the problem.

**NOYB111** · **12-27-08, 08:40 PM**

I'm back! TV is still working great after repair with no problems as far as I know. I am curious if what I am seeing now is a side effect of the new color wheel install or something else. TV picture is great, but sometimes I notice faint wavy horizontal lines in lighter scenes. This only happens in component mode. When I switch to HDMI on same channel it is not there. My DVD/Surround sound has no HDMI and can only be connected with component so I would like to resolve it. I tried a new component cable and it was still there so I know its not the cable. Could some settings need to be tweaked with the new color wheel install I did? Is there anything I can adjust to get rid of it? Its not serious and its not seen all the time, but I do notice it. Thanks

**lcaillo** · **12-27-08, 10:55 PM**

I'd be looking for a wire dress problem. Perhaps you routed a wire incorrectly.

**NOYB111** · **12-27-08, 11:30 PM**

No I have checked and wires are correctly connected. Plus the picture is perfect 95% of the time. Its a subtle wavy line issue that only shows sometimes. Maybe something is interfering with it.

**lcaillo** · **12-28-08, 12:29 AM**

Wire dress is the routing of wires, not what they are connected to. It can be the source of interference of the sort that you describe, particularly in analog signals. You could also have a problem in the processing of the signal. These kinds of problems can be very tricky to track down. The first thing to do is eliminate any simple problems such as wire dress, ground problems, or poor connections.

**NOYB111** · **12-30-08, 04:24 PM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

Wire dress is the routing of wires, not what they are connected to. It can be the source of interference of the sort that you describe, particularly in analog signals. You could also have a problem in the processing of the signal. These kinds of problems can be very tricky to track down. The first thing to do is eliminate any simple problems such as wire dress, ground problems, or poor connections.

Well now component connection 2 does not work at all. Comp1 works fine, I swapped cables and confirmed its not cables. I get no signal at all to TV when using Comp2 connection. What would be the fix for this? I assume a board of some kind that will cost $$$...

**lcaillo** · **12-30-08, 04:30 PM**

Probably a board, but it is hard to determine from the information provided. More troubleshooting would be needed.

**Jason1976** · **08-27-09, 01:25 AM**

we found a fix that may work for your tv. http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...-problems.html

**RRAZ** · **09-13-09, 02:06 PM**

Quote:

NOYB111 wrote:

Well now component connection 2 does not work at all. Comp1 works fine, I swapped cables and confirmed its not cables. I get no signal at all to TV when using Comp2 connection. What would be the fix for this? I assume a board of some kind that will cost $$$...

The helpful folks here are too kindly objective to break the news that one doesn't own a Samsung DLP as much as rent one. The machine is made to last just a little longer than the warranty. Getting all those complicated parts to work perfectly together and then die synchronously about 40 months later is a triumph of electrical component engineering!

My 5067 issues began with a lamp and now I am waiting on a digital board. If I was of means (hindsight being 20/20), I would not have even purchased the lamp, since I am 'investing' hundreds of dollars of parts that are identical to the junk built in. The inevitable conclusion is that the set is unlikely to be running in 3 years time.

**lcaillo** · **09-13-09, 10:47 PM**

While the problems are rather common, one must keep them in context. Not every set breaks, nor even most of them. You might see dozens of problems reported online, but there were hundreds of thousands of these sets sold.

Samsung made obvious choices to focus on high performance at lower prices to buy market share in the DLP RP market, and the reliability of the sets has shown the effects of those decisions. Other DLP products have not had the same kinds of issues. Consumers were all too happy to buy the sets at the prices offered, however, just like many are happy to buy essentially disposable products made today from dozens of vendors who have no intention of providing any service support and parts at all. Demand for low priced, high performance product and the lack of attention to the level of service that will be provided has driven the market to the bottom in many ways. How many people ever asked about service when they bought these sets.

One of the dealers that I service never sold them because of the history of Samsung and the sense that they were not up to the Japanese brands in terms of reliability. As it turns out this was a good decision, though they gave up lots of sales because of that choice. Was it a good one? Probably so, since they are very service oriented and would have had to deal with the problems and the related customer satisfaction problems. For most other dealers who do not service what they sell, however, there is little incentive to make such hard choices. Why do non-servicing dealers dominate the market then? Simple...service costs money, and consumers want cheap more than they want service and reliability.

**RRAZ** · **09-13-09, 11:47 PM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

For most other dealers who do not service what they sell, however, there is little incentive to make such hard choices. Why do non-servicing dealers dominate the market then? Simple...service costs money, and consumers want cheap more than they want service and reliability.

I agree that low-price shopping can be its own 'reward'. However, there is a certain amount of deception on the part of the manufacturer too. I researched far and wide at the time I bought my set - as no doubt did many others. Reviewers were resoundingly in favor and I have yet to find a salesman in an electronics store that will tell me any stocked product is unreliable. Today one just has to type "Samsung DLP problem" into Google to be well warned.

As a consumer it is extremely difficult to sort through all the advertising chaff to make a sound choice. High price is no guarantee of high quality either. At least in my area, no one at all services what they sell. The retailers sell and the servicers service. Neither has any incentive to do differently in a race to the bottom.

The best answer I can think of is a regulatory minimum manufacturer warranty of 2 or 3 years. This forces all makers to up their game (and their prices). How else can you raise the bar?

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