Discuss HLR6167WAX/XAA Digital board problems in the Brand Specific Service Forums forum.
Thanks, Tito. I am sure others will find the detail helpful....

**lcaillo** · **08-29-09, 10:47 PM**

Thanks, Tito. I am sure others will find the detail helpful.

**Jason1976** · **08-30-09, 07:52 AM**

very nice write up tito. when i took my digital board out it didnt have any glue. I bought my set as used non working with the matching stand for 50 dollars. it makes me wonder if the digital board has been replaced before.

**bragginz** · **08-30-09, 09:13 AM**

Jason1976, I'm very encouraged that your fix may solve the same problem that I've had for almost 1 year. My HL-R5067W's picture would randomly freeze, inputs would go in and out, the screen would turn green and garbled, and the remote would be rendered useless at times. Almost threw out the set after a repair guy quoted me over $700 to replace the whole light engine. He determined that one of the main chips on the digital board was not getting the proper inductance. So your identification of the DNIe chip sounds right on. Kudos to you and tito for your ideas. I'm gonna give it a go here in the next few days and will report my findings as well.

**Jason1976** · **08-30-09, 01:10 PM**

Quote:

bragginz wrote:

Jason1976, I'm very encouraged that your fix may solve the same problem that I've had for almost 1 year. My HL-R5067W's picture would randomly freeze, inputs would go in and out, the screen would turn green and garbled, and the remote would be rendered useless at times. Almost threw out the set after a repair guy quoted me over $700 to replace the whole light engine. He determined that one of the main chips on the digital board was not getting the proper inductance. So your identification of the DNIe chip sounds right on. Kudos to you and tito for your ideas. I'm gonna give it a go here in the next few days and will report my findings as well.

Remember to take photos if you use other things. The idea of using washers is a good idea. That way if the fix doesn't fix your issues it doesn't leave marks on the case. Since the digital boards normally have a core charge if you buy a new one. It was lcaillo the came up with the idea of using a bolt. I was using foil. Remember we need to thank him. If this works you don't have to spend

238 dollars on a replacement digital board. If I wouldn't of messed up my board by tring to remelt the solder I would of made a youtube video with my digital camera. It takes mp4 videos. It would of most likely took more then one video since they can only be like 10 mins long each.

ps if anyone is in MD here is one of these tv's that most likely needs this fix but i think 300 is a high for a tv that would cost around 500 to 700 dollars to have fixed by a repair shop. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/ele/1348548047.html

ps. i was looking on the internet and I saw were someone put a link to this on http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...37675&page=129 ps bragginz called me justin1976.

**bragginz** · **08-31-09, 10:48 AM**

Thanks Jason1976. I should get a chance to perform surgery on my DLP in the next week or two. Need to wait until all the kids are in bed, otherwise curiosity by my 2 and 4 year olds could spell disaster for the digital board. I'm thinking of using an actual Cu-based heat sink over the DNIe chip to get the best uniform pressure over the device. I have a sample sitting around from a previous line of work. I'll try and take pictures when I get a chance. May be a few days before I can find the time to do it...

BTW, sorry about the name mixup in the other forum. I went ahead and fixed it.

**Jason1976** · **08-31-09, 01:31 PM**

thats fine. your not the first one to call me justin. I used to work at a place and I never corrected the one lady.

wow I was just looking its not taking long for this post to have a lot of hits. you can even find videos on youtube with people having these issue. I hope more people are having luck doing this. please join the forum and let us know.

**tito** · **08-31-09, 11:09 PM**

Hey guys,

Well bad news, after working flawlessly for days now, my 50" started acting up again today

I took it apart again and nothing had slipped with my hack. I just tightened it down even more (VERY TIGHT) and tried it again and it was fine for a bit, but then started having new problems with a periodic creed plaid video then switched off and back to normal video right quick. Happened a couple times in a short span.

Only thing odd I noticed this time is the fan insert between the digital and analog boards wasn't coming on when powering up the set. Anyone know if this fan is supposed to run steady or is only tripped by heat? Should I replace this fan and hope that helps? It's had issues sitting cold so I'm guessing not.

Sounds like I need to give in and order (back order) a replacement digital board. Anyone think I can try anything else first? From what lcaillo said about setting issues with his replacement board, is a new digital board a good investment or should I just get a new Plasma/LCD TV for ~$800? How do I know if mine is one where the digital and analog boards have to be replaced together?

Ugh, very depressed after the massive victory!
Tito.

**bragginz** · **08-31-09, 11:19 PM**

Also gave my TV a shot with the clamp method. Took everything apart carefully, installed the bolt and replaced the housing and outside cover. Was ready to jump up and down after turning on the TV...but nothing happened.

No standby light or anything. I must have connected something incorrectly. I'll retrace my steps and see if I can put it back the way it was. I'm a little worried I applied too much pressure with the bolt and I may have royally screwed something up...

**lcaillo** · **08-31-09, 11:23 PM**

These are concerns. Too much pressure could easily make things worse, and the chip IS supposed to be soldered in, so there is no telling how long the fix will last. I used just enough pressure to not allow the washer to slip. There is some flex in the metal housing, so it could be giving way a bit also.

Personally, I have no confidence that the new boards will not have the same problem eventually.

**bragginz** · **08-31-09, 11:44 PM**

tito, do you remember if some of the white sockets on the top board were empty when you put all the cables back in? Since all are unique connectors, I didn't bother to check where they all went before yanking them all out. As far as I can tell, 4 connector areas are supposed to be left empty.