HLR6167WAX/XAA Digital board problems

**butch** · **10-05-09, 10:44 PM**

Well, well, well! For the first time in several weeks, my HLR5067W powered on normally and is working perfectly.

I came across this thread at the end of August. I'd applied, and reapplied, the temporary fix, but couldn't even get back to the green plaid problem. Mostly, the set wouldn't even power on. Finally just left it plugged in but quit trying (watched the bedroom TV). Then after about 3 weeks of no attempts whatsoever, I first did the service mode power on (mute,1,8,2,power) and, voila!, the power on chime sounded (sweet music) and the picture came in clear! After first photographing the settings, powered off then pressed power on and it still worked! Yippee! OK, OK, I know it probably won't last. But it's made it through the first half of Monday Night Football! Cross your fingers that I'll get more than a couple of weeks out of it. (I've already made my replacement TV decision.)

I still don't have a strong confidence that replacing the digital board will cure the ills, but I think this proves that I didn't bungle something else while applying the fix.

**Jason1976** · **10-05-09, 11:10 PM**

Quote:

butch wrote:

Well, well, well! For the first time in several weeks, my HLR5067W powered on normally and is working perfectly.

I came across this thread at the end of August. I'd applied, and reapplied, the temporary fix, but couldn't even get back to the green plaid problem. Mostly, the set wouldn't even power on. Finally just left it plugged in but quit trying (watched the bedroom TV). Then after about 3 weeks of no attempts whatsoever, I first did the service mode power on (mute,1,8,2,power) and, voila!, the power on chime sounded (sweet music) and the picture came in clear! After first photographing the settings, powered off then pressed power on and it still worked! Yippee! OK, OK, I know it probably won't last. But it's made it through the first half of Monday Night Football! Cross your fingers that I'll get more than a couple of weeks out of it. (I've already made my replacement TV decision.)

I still don't have a strong confidence that replacing the digital board will cure the ills, but I think this proves that I didn't bungle something else while applying the fix.

To bad you can't find someone local that has the same kind of tv with the same kind of digital board to see if that takes care of your issues. butch many people have had the same issue you do. after replacing the digital board their tv's work again.

When you have the green plaid screen your menu showed up on the screen correct? and if you tuned in a HDTV channel the video went to normal or doesn't look as bad. and if you use the hdmi part on the digital board you don’t have the green plaid screen or doesn't look as bad. but if you use the tuner on a channel that isn't HDTV the screen looks green plaid. also if you use the composit line in ( red blue green )on the analog board you get the green plaid screen also. and if you use the red and white audio inputs with the yellow input you get the green plaid screen.

these are all issues with the digital board. we have seen them many times. the digital board hooks to the analog board with 3 cables. the tuner for sdtv is also built into the digital board. and isn't even part of the analog board. if it was a light engine issue the menu's wouldn't show up correct. they also would have the green plaid look.

you could buy the board from www.samsungparts.com and after you return the old one for a core charge it only cost you 188 dollars. if it doesn't fix the tv you could turn around and sell the new digital board on ebay. there is one seller that has them on there right now for 269 dollars. you could list the digital board for what you paid or maybe a little more and get your money back. You wouldn't be out any money if it doesn't fix your issue. but i wouldn't be afraid to bet that it would fix the tv.

**rhurst** · **10-06-09, 12:00 AM**

Order the digital board and you won't be sorry. Those were my symptoms to a tee and a new board cured my set and was really quite easy to install. I will be sending my old core back tomorrow for credit. They make that process easy as well with mailing label included. Cheers!

**lcaillo** · **10-06-09, 12:31 AM**

I agree, it sounds like a bad digital board.

**Jason1976** · **10-07-09, 09:23 AM**

I also posted this on another topic but this topic is more active.

If i wouldn't of fried the digital board by using a paint stripping heat gun. I would of tried the video the 2nd video on this web page. It looks like the metal of a tea light candel. http://www.ifitjams.com/2008/08/refl...rocessors.html looks like they had the same issue with a BGA chip on apple and ibm motherboards. The alcohol kludge only requires a penny worth of alcohol and a tin to put it in. I guess it gets the solder hot and melts it.

one of you may want to try this but it may mess it up or it may fix it.

**rhurst** · **10-07-09, 09:45 AM**

Jason, I couldn't get the link in your last message to work. Might be me, I don't know.

**lcaillo** · **10-07-09, 10:22 AM**

Same here. Bad link.

**butch** · **10-07-09, 11:28 AM**

Ain't Google great! I had the same problem but found it. Too bad I am not allowed to post links yet!

/2008

/08

/reflowing-solder-under-bga-processors.

html

**butch** · **10-07-09, 11:33 AM**

http://www.ifitjams.com/2008/08/refl...rocessors.html

That last post was #5, so it should work now.

**Jason1976** · **10-07-09, 12:32 PM**

Quote:

butch wrote:

http://www.ifitjams.com/2008/08/refl...rocessors.html

That last post was #5, so it should work now.

this is the same link i tried to post but for some reason they couldnt get it to open.

**fishfirst** · **10-07-09, 06:38 PM**

jason thanks for the help,I found a thread on this along with light tunnel issues (the post stated samsung public statement that they know thier is a light engine problem 'ON A FEW HLR DLPS) SO i called the samsung phone # again no luck........ btw the pressure on chip mod didnt do it for me

**shadsrt8** · **10-29-09, 12:41 PM**

This thread was invaluable. I bypassed the 'fix' and purchased a replacement digital board for my HLR5667W from SAMSUNGPARTS for $238 including core charge. Had it delivered in 2 days. Life is good again, except that my HDMI input no longer works. The set knows the cable is plugged in since I'm able to select that input as a source and I get a 'check cable' when I pull it out, but I get a 'Weak signal or no signal' message on the HDMI source when it is plugged in. At the top of the service settings, when I'm on the HDMI source it says 'input HDMI, res 480p'. That doesn't seem to be something I can change. I've tried setting my HDMI output of my DVR to 480p, 480i, 720P and 1080i, but no help. I hooked up a DVD player with an HDMI 'upconverter' and still have 'no or weak' signal. Is there a setting in the service menus that might help? Does it sound like a bad HDMI port on the board?

Also, you mention 'transferring' the settings prior to swapping out the board and then transferring them back. Which service menu function does that? I didn't, but I made sure all settings matched after swapping the boards and all seems well other than the HDMI input.

Thanks again for all the great pix and explanations.

shadsrt8

**trnelson** · **10-29-09, 01:51 PM**

I swapped out my digital board yesterday.

It took me about 90 minutes to do, and overall, it was quite simple. For anyone thinking about doing this but is unsure of their abilities, I would argue that if you can disassemble/reassemble a computer, changing the board will not be difficult.

The hardest part was disconnecting the ribbon cables between the analog and digital boards, as there was glue all over the connection point to the digital board.

Another essential while doing this is to have a digital camera handy. After you open up the back panel, start taking good pics of the assembly to document the various cable connections. There are at least 7 or so to keep track of. Some are similar to each other, but with important differences. A pic may become very helpful when reconnecting.

Once I fired 'er up, the picture was horizontally flipped, as described elsewhere in this thread. Even the service menu is flipped, but it's not that difficult to find the horizontal control and flip it back to normal. Otherwise, the picture appeared exactly like it should. Didn't need to mess around with calibration settings, etc. This includes transferring settings, as also described within this thread.

On another note, I did call Samsung about this issue. They claim they have no record of problems with the digital board. I encourage anyone having these problems to call Samsung and complain. Maybe if the volume of complaints is high enough, they will issue a service advisory to help those in the future.

Again, I had a good experience. It's great to have my set back, without any more picture freezes and funny lines. Its as it should be.

@shadsrt8: Not sure what may be going on with your set. But if I were to guess, it sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Maybe you could try rechecking all your cable connections. But I'm sure lcaillo or jason1976 may have some ideas. Good luck.

**Jason1976** · **10-29-09, 02:06 PM**

I am not sure but you may have gotten a bad board. you may want to contact were you bought the board and see if they have any ideas. I am sure someone else will reply to this that may have more of an idea.

**lcaillo** · **10-29-09, 08:45 PM**

I have never had an issue with HDMI only on these sets. I would verify the source and cabling, otherwise probably a bad board.

There are options to store digital board data to the engine and to retrieve data from the engine. If you have stored data to the engine before changing boards, the values can be retrieved to the new board. I am not sure of the scope of parameters saved this way.

**thoughtless** · **11-01-09, 07:39 PM**

Quote:

Jason1976 wrote:

I also posted this on another topic but this topic is more active.

If i wouldn't of fried the digital board by using a paint stripping heat gun. I would of tried the video the 2nd video on this web page. It looks like the metal of a tea light candel. looks like they had the same issue with a BGA chip on apple and ibm motherboards. The alcohol kludge only requires a penny worth of alcohol and a tin to put it in. I guess it gets the solder hot and melts it.

one of you may want to try this but it may mess it up or it may fix it.

My Samsung 56" DLP started acting up with the plaid green screen last week and eventually wouldn't turn on. I came across these forums trying to find a fix. After reading the troubles with the pressure hack, I decided to skip it and try reflowing the solder as shown in the second video in the link Jason1976 posted. So far it has been working for a couple hours and after several power ups. I didn't have a tea candle so I used a large bottle cap. I will give an update later on if it continues to work or not; hopefully it will.

**kidonlee** · **11-05-09, 03:09 PM**

New (or maybe refurbished I think) digital board fixed the green screen problem of my 50" Samsung DLP TV. Thanks a lot.

**lcaillo** · **11-05-09, 03:39 PM**

Glad we could be helpful.

**breemech** · **11-05-09, 06:15 PM**

I have an HLR6167WX DLP in which (COMPONENT 2) and (HDMI) source inputs do not work at all. They show no inputs on the menu screen. Picture and screen work fine. (CABLE) and (COMPONENT 1) source inputs work fine.

Could this be due to the digital board described here in this thread?

Thanks in advance.

**lcaillo** · **11-05-09, 09:08 PM**

Samsung sets generally auto detect inputs. If there is nothing connected, you won't see them in the menu.

**breemech** · **11-05-09, 10:30 PM**

The (COMPONENT 2) and (HDMI) source inputs do not detect any source when I have a either cable HDMI plugged into the TV HDMI or cable RED, BLUE, GREEN source plugged into (COMPONENT 2).

**lcaillo** · **11-06-09, 08:23 AM**

They use microswitches on the analog inputs, not sure about HDMI. It could be bad switches, or it could be a communication problem. These sets behave strangely when the digital board problems start showing up. It is very difficult to troubleshoot them because of the way the boards are located. You can take them out of the shields to get to them to trace signals but it requires a longer DVI cable to set them up to work. You would also need a scope to trace the signals.

**thoughtless** · **11-08-09, 08:45 PM**

Quote:

thoughtless wrote:

My Samsung 56" DLP started acting up with the plaid green screen last week and eventually wouldn't turn on. I came across these forums trying to find a fix. After reading the troubles with the pressure hack, I decided to skip it and try reflowing the solder as shown in the second video in the link Jason1976 posted. So far it has been working for a couple hours and after several power ups. I didn't have a tea candle so I used a large bottle cap. I will give an update later on if it continues to work or not; hopefully it will.

It has been one week and so far so good. Here's hoping for two.

**Jason1976** · **11-08-09, 10:28 PM**

Quote:

thoughtless wrote:

It has been one week and so far so good. Here's hoping for two.

Thats good that it worked this long. I never had a chance to try it. how long did it burn? I wish I would of found the video before trying to reflow the solder using a heat gun. I over heated the one I have.

http://www.ifitjams.com/2008/08/refl...rocessors.html

If this works thats a big saveings over buying a new board.

this next web page shows you more info but they are showing you on an apple ibook. but it's the same idea.

http://geektechnique.org/projectlab/...20board-repair

**thoughtless** · **11-10-09, 01:01 AM**

It burned about 3 minutes before I blew it out. My bottle cap had a much smaller surface area than the tea candle so the flame was not nearly as large as in the video; 4 inches high at most.

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