HLM617W - Blank Screen but Lamp is Lit

**pgreif** · **10-18-09, 11:37 PM**

I've searched and searched for a solution... I need help.

Everything sounds/acts normal when turning the TV on (chime,colorwheel,ballast,lamp)
I just don't have a picture; the Lamp is on but screen is blank with no sound.
The TV is locked and the Green Lamp light is flashing.
Sometimes it will display stationary white dots in a horizontal line across the screen.
The color wheel did not look like it was rotating very fast so I installed a new one... didn't work.

First sign something was wrong - A few minutes after watching the picture went blank (lamp still lit) but TV still had sound.

The TV failed to restart on first attempt so I cycled the plug tried again and it started on it's second self attempt. Worked until we turned it off a few hours later. TV will not turn back on.

The three LED indicators on the Digital board are lit.

Can this be a bad lamp even if it's lit?

Thanks for your help.

**lcaillo** · **10-19-09, 08:02 AM**

There have been some bad solder connections in the power supply in these sets. If the lamp is lit the lamplitz line from the ballast should go low. If it does not, you have a bad ballast.

**pgreif** · **10-19-09, 04:42 PM**

I think I may have solved the problem.
My power board (BP94-00089A) had a bad Trans-Multi Choke (BP26-00009A) after waiting weeks for the Choke, I found out it's no longer available.
I found a new power board (BP94-00025A) on ebay that has the same Choke.
In my haste, I installed the whole board rather than confirming if the board is compatible. It is not!
Now I'm out of town and won't be able to swap the Chokes and test my theory.

**lcaillo** · **10-19-09, 05:38 PM**

What makes you think this part is bad?

**pgreif** · **10-19-09, 08:03 PM**

This TV had developed a problem at start-up. Whenever it happened the transformer was buzzing and clicking. As the problem got worse the transformer noise got worse.

My father helped me make the determination to replace the transformer.
He's an Electrical Engineer who designs high power/frequency transformers.

power board (BP94-00089A) = 60" TV's

power board (BP94-00025A) = 50" TV's
As far as I can tell this board has a couple of extra resistors.

**trnelson** · **10-19-09, 10:35 PM**

**lcaillo** · **10-20-09, 06:27 AM**

These are very different sets. You need to be paying attention to the HLR threads. Your symptoms sound like digital board problems that have been discussed at length for those sets. I have not heard of significant digital board problems on the HLM series.

**trnelson** · **10-20-09, 10:57 AM**

**lcaillo** · **10-20-09, 02:35 PM**

Please post in an appropriate thread. It can be very confusing to other people to discuss problems with different models in the same thread. YES, the sets are very different.

**pgreif** · **10-22-09, 05:29 PM**

I just installed the Main Power Board with the new Transformer on it.
I now get the three blinking lights consistently. (Somewhat satisfying...)
The lamp fires for 2 maybe three seconds on first attempts and then goes out.
This TV has been cycled on and off so many times I think I have worn out the lamp.
What do you think?

**lcaillo** · **10-22-09, 06:05 PM**

Rear panel switch closed?

Yes, you could have a bad lamp.

Check to see if the lamp lit line at the ballast changes state when it lights.

**pgreif** · **10-23-09, 12:03 AM**

Door switch is closed
reading 390v
and 4.5v

**lcaillo** · **10-23-09, 07:58 AM**

Quote:

pgreif wrote:

Door switch is closed
reading 390v
and 4.5v

I assume that the 390v refers to the power supply to the ballast. What is reading 4.5v? Cryptic information does not help solve your problem. Please be more descriptiveif you want help.

**pgreif** · **10-23-09, 08:15 AM**

Sorry.
1 I reseated the CN106 connector to the DMD board.
2 Made sure the MDR cable between the DIGITAL board and the DMD board was connected properly.
3 The B+ cable going to the BALLAST reads 390V.
4 The Blue pin #1 on CN2 to the balllast is reading 4.4V

Everytime I let the TV rest for 30 minutes I can get the lamp to fire once for 2 seconds.

**lcaillo** · **10-23-09, 08:31 AM**

I do not recall what pin 1 on CN2 is, exactly, but if it is the limp lit signaling line, it should change state when the lamp comes up. If it does not, you may have a bad ballast.

If I was troubleshooting the set the first thing I would do is change the lamp. Many techs and consumers waste lots of time and money assuming it is something else when they just have a bad lamp. Most techs learned long ago to start there and rule that out first.

**pgreif** · **10-23-09, 09:23 AM**

Where is the Lamp Litz (service manual says CN104)?

The CN2 cable (4 wires) runs from the color wheel to the ballast.
It reads 4V to 4.4V the entire time the TV is attempting to start.
The B+ cable going to the BALLAST reads 390V (also the entire time)
I agree with your opinion that I should try a new lamp.
I'm a little worried that I may end up with two working lamps and a broke TV.

Thanks

**pgreif** · **10-23-09, 05:03 PM**

Well I did the prudent thing and ordered a new lamp. Stay tuned...

Advertisement