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Dayton 18" Ultimax / knock-down cab project.

29K views 85 replies 9 participants last post by  Anderslober 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello HTS Forum!

I am new to this forum. I have been reading up on many of the excellent subwoofer threads. Fantastic reading and great knowledge.
I have ordered a sub kit from PE. 18" Ultimax in sealed cabinet/spa1000amp. I will post pictures as I go along. This is my first build..........if you see anything going wrong....let me know.

My question here is, what would you fellas use as dampening for cabinet? Polyfill? Sonic Barrier? I would really like to try the 1" Sonic Barrier......would this do adequately in the knock-down cabinet?

Any info or ideas would be awesome....thanks.

Trying to upload a couple of photos............I cant upload more than 1 photo....am I doing something wtong?
 

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#2 ·
My question here is, what would you fellas use as dampening for cabinet? Polyfill? Sonic Barrier? I would really like to try the 1" Sonic Barrier......would this do adequately in the knock-down cabinet?
Lots of folks use Polyfil, or just buy a foam mattress pad from Wal-Mart and cut it up to use. I'd try to use both the foam on all sides of the box and then put additional polyfil inside it till its fairly full. You can always remove the polyfill afterwards if you find you have to much...

I bought this stuff myself which you can buy from Parts Express as well...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPLP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I need to get some more because my box is big enough it could use 2 more sections of it, but initially I was cheap and just wanted to do what was needed which for me in my ported box was just line the top of the port.

I'm using the rack mount version of your amp (SA-1000) and I like it a ton so you should enjoy your amp quite a bit.

How are you planning on dialing it in? You going to use a MiniDSP, Audyssey, etc...? Do you have a mic to measure response with REW? How big is your room, etc.....

You look to be off to a good start and made some good choices parts wise. Looking forward to watching your build.
 
#3 ·
The sub will go into a HT system. I am using an Onkyo txnr838. I was hoping that the EQ(on the spa1000)and the Onk' would allow me to dial the sub in. I would really like to get the MiniDSP.
The sub will be complete and massive overkill in our HT room........4.5x3.5m. I already have a Jamo D600 sub...amazing unit.
I would just like to try build my own sub. I have almost all the stuff that I need.....the only thing giving me a headache is what to fill the sub with. As you suggest,,,,,a combination of Sonic Barrier and polyfill sounds pretty good......all suggestions welcome.
 
#4 ·
Gotcha. Decent system but not familiar with Onkyo's Autocalibration since its new(er) and I ruled that brand out for my next AVR.

You should be able to dial things in decent but here's something to think about. I dont think the Onkyo will show you a graph of how things sound for you to be able to accurately use the PEQ and bass boost on the sub.

You will want some sort of USB Mic you can use REW to see how your sub measures and dial that in BEFORE you calibrate with the AVR. But that said, if you cant you cant and the AVR should hopefully do a decent job.

I myself have a MiniDSP but am wanting a simpler setup and so I bought the SVS unit which is basically Audyssey XT32 for JUST a sub. The MiniDSP is great, but I just dont have time to dial it in like I should so I'm hoping the SVS unit just works and fixes things best it can.

Anyway off to a good start, should be quite good. Post some pictures of your setup so we get an idea of things as well.

Also I'd recommend a Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 sub cable. Not super pricey but IMHO better than what you can get from Monoprice/Radio Shack, etc....
 
#6 ·
Doing the same..but, I'm considering dual ultimax 18 sealed with separate enclosures. Want even balanced with little effort by them = little or no distortion. Using a inuke 6000dsp should enough umph.
Since your still "considering".... I'd scope out the Stereo Integrity HTS 11 and HTS 12's...... bit more per driver but can handle a LOT of wattage and dont need a huge enclosure either.....

Sorry to go off topic. :crying::paddle: Wont do it again
 
#7 ·
Polyfill and foam lining accomplish different things. If you want to lower the Qts of your sealed sub, add generous polyfill and skip the foam. If you don't want to change Qts much, use foam lining to clean up high frequency noise and reduce standing waves.
 
#9 ·
My next Question is about finishing. I would like my unit to be metallic/gun metal black......slightly textured. I have seen many good pictures of this finish on this website.

Would I need to prime the cabinet first? MDF doesnt like moisture......
After priming a few coats of Rustoleum or similar? Rolled or sprayed?
I think I need to start experimenting...............

The sub-bug is catching me!
 
#10 · (Edited)
Only because you asked
.

I own an Integra currently. It's on its third HDMI board. I don't want to deal with HDMI board failures and additionally I want Audyssey XT32.

I haven't read lots about the Onkyo auto calibration whereas I have been following Audyssey and Pioneers MCACC, Yamahas YPAO, and Anthems ARC for years so I'm familiar with the pros and cons.

Due to all that Onkyo was ruled out and Integra to some extent as well since they use the same parts and boards. Anthem was ruled out due to to few HDMI ports and not having as many features as competing AVRs at its price point (only 7.1? Seriously?). It's probably one I will keep evaluating as I do like how ARC works quite a bit and TBH may never go more than 5.1 (but I don't want to be AVR limited info change my wife's mind). Pioneer was ruled out after talking to a BUNCH of people that used both for calibration and talking to industry people who preferred Audyssey. Yamaha was ruled out as they just don't impress me and I'm not a YPAO fan at all. Good friend recently went from Yamaha to Denon and has been flabbergasted at how much better it is.

That left Denon and Marantz for the most part. Since I plan to keep this AVR as long as my last one (going on 7 years I think), I want quality and the Marantz has a tid bit more of it IMHO despite both companies being owned by the same parent entity.

I'm still not 100% between Denon, Marantz and Anthem so it will depend on cost when the time comes.

I run an external B&K 200.5 amp so I don't need amps in the AVR unless I go more than 5.1 which may never happen, but again don't want to be limited necessarily if I can Chang emu wife's mind... But finding a cheap low lowered multichannel amp for surrounds wouldn't be to hard either, just not ideal. However by spending ALL my money on the processing part in theory a pre-pro would provide should provide a better cleaner signal. Would I be able to tell the difference... Maybe not but I don't like what ifs either heheh.

I'm likely looking at the Marantz SR7009 or AV7002, Anthems MRX-700, Denons X5100, X5200.

Now back to subs
.
 
#11 ·
Wow! Awesome story! I think Onkyo fixed the hdmi board issues in their newer avr's. :yikes:
I had a Lexicon MC12 and Citation 7.1 amps......I had to sell them due relocation......man have I regretted that..especially the amps!

I ordered the spa1000 amp and some 1" Sonic Barrier......I going with a combination of both.

Finish recommendations and procedures? Gun metal black, slightly textured.....It looks fantastic when done right.
 
#14 ·
Amp and Soni Barrier wil be delivered on the 30th. April...........cool.

Anyway...regarding the build..........I have bought some speaker gasketing tape.........just to be absolutely sure...this tape is mounted between the driver and the wood(baffle).......correct? You tape the gasket on the baffle cutout and then install the driver....?

Please feel free to post some finishing photos of your projects. Just so I can get some ideas.......
 
#15 ·
Ok guys 'n gals...........just a few more questions.......when putting together the knockdown cabinet....do I need a nail gun? Or do I screw it together? Is just glueing enough?

Any ideas on the former question regarding speaker gasketing tape?

Thanks...

Will post a few pics soon.........:T
 
#16 · (Edited)
Ok guys 'n gals...........just a few more questions.......when putting together the knockdown cabinet....do I need a nail gun? Or do I screw it together? Is just glueing enough?

Any ideas on the former question regarding speaker gasketing tape?
You dont "have" to use a nailgun. If you just glue it together though make sure you clamp it together when drying with a bunch of high quality clamps.

A Brad nailer would "help" but you also then run the risk of having a nail go through the wood and causing damage which you have to repair before finishing it.

We had a couple problems with that, however my buddy is a whiz at painting and finishing so you cant tell.

If you are using the Duratex paint as well (looks like rhino lining for a truck bed) then it wouldn't be a problem.

The gasket tape can either go on the driver itself, or the baffle, or both. Its just there to make a good seal and you can't really overdo it since it will compress itself down as you tighten the bolts.'


You asked for pictures so here are a couple of my DIYSoundGroup Cube 15 project. My buddy ran a router over all the edges for me and then finished with a standard satin black sprayed with a automotive gun after a nice white primer coat. We used furniture screw inserts with some glue on them instead of just wood screws.















A link to my full slideshow is here if you bored (or interested) in my project.
 
#19 ·
Awesome......Thanks for the excellent info.

Will I need to prime the MDF surface before applyiing paint/rhino liner?
If you are doing paint, then personally I would prime it beforehand. If using duratex you dont need to as its self priming.

I've also been told if you order direct from Duratex they can customize the color as well... Maybe Ferrari red, Baby blue, etc....
 
#26 ·
It cant hurt......
 
#29 ·
Ok...great. I also purchased a quart of Duratex......is that enough for this cabinet?
Haven't followed what box you bought, but the Duratex on Parts Express's site says this: Quart-sized kit covers 20 to 24 square feet and includes textured roller


I tried to find something similar here in Denmark.........nothing really.........hammered Hammerite....is that usable?
Never heard of it and too lazy to google :doh:, but that doesnt mean anything... here in the states Duratex is very similar to the stuff they spray on trucks for bedliner, you "might" be able to substitute that for the Duratex if you run out....

I'm betting you can find a place that does rhino lining and get them to spray your box for a small fee, cant imagine it uses that much material...

Not sure if they have that stuff in Denmark or not.....
 
#30 ·
Trust me....I have googled extensively. Here in Denmark......there aren't many trucks/pick-ups.....it just ain't done. We drive around in small 4 cylinder bangers! Cars are friggin expensive here! Trucks ate just not really on the market.
No worries...I ordered a quart of Duratex.......better to get the right stuff instead of some funky substitute.

There are no 'small fees' in Denmark..........if you need anything done.....legally......it costs dearly!
 
#31 ·
Nervously I start my very first subwoofer build......gulp!:yikes:

I jigsawed out a hole for the spa1000 amp. That went well. Now I have glued in the braces. I over-used glue, as I wanted it to get into all possible corners.
If anyone sees any obvious goofs......let me know.
 

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#34 ·
No reason NOT to overglue I say. If you can beg/borrow/steal some wood clamps that would be my only suggestion. You really want to make sure everything is super snug as the tolerance on those CNC cut pieces is very small and I'd hate for it to not like up the way you want.

Additionally for the polyfill what I've seen folks do is buy some acoustically transparent fabric and staple it to the area they are putting the polyfill in to create kinda a fabric "pocket" to hold it in place so it doesnt move around and go into the cone area.... Alternatively you could create that pocket around the driver cutout in the braces, but then adding or removing polyfill later is a bit harder.... but doable..

Hopefully I explained it good enough you get the idea....

Otherwise looks good!
 
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