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Acoustic Elegance dual 12" diy sub.....

37K views 82 replies 6 participants last post by  Moonfly 
#1 ·
Hi all, i'm in the process of starting my first diy build....well actually, a friend of mine, not unknown in these parts (!) is going to put it all together for me. :)

Basically, i've bought a Behringer EP4000 to power it, and the only restrictions so far are that (owing to size constraints) the sub has to be sealed (to keep the size down). It works out at around 40 litres, and my basic question (apart from any advice along the way), is, what driver configuration would be the best?? Push pull, or dual opposed etc. Does it matter???

All i want, is the best bass i can get out of the restrictions i have.
The drivers are AE 12x for the upper bass slam, which is what i really like....the 'feel it in your chest' type bass.....but, obvously, i'm well up for it to dig deep too!!!

Any thoughts guys???
 
#70 ·
The natural sized cabinet for that driver is about 200 litres, so all in all that would make for a pretty large subwoofer. With a pair of the drivers, and modelling on 1000 watts of total power, you could make the cabinet as small as 75 litres as long as you eq it properly. If thats your chosen driver, which way do you want to go with the cabinet design?
 
#71 ·
Of the acoustic elegance drivers that are currently available is there one that would work in this cabinet?
I would prefer the acoustic elegance but if not the Dayton would do fine.
If I'm using the the Dayton I'd go with the 75 liter design. I don't want a big sub. I already have a big vented 18" sub I want to get rid of. I custom built it.
 
#72 ·
AE dont make any HT focused drivers any more, or at least they didnt last time I checked. I'd also not be willing to put them forward personally as I have no idea as to how reliable they are in terms of delivery etc.

Would you like me to go ahead and build the 3D model of the 75 litre design?
 
#78 ·
The Dayton amp would work well, but Id say get the stand alone version. You can get Melamine MDF, which is what I use, and the design I have done is intended to use 1" material. Ive not included an internal brace as the design is at the limit of how compact it can be and there isnt really an allowance for any of it to be taken away. Bear in mind this design will push the drivers to their limits of capability, and this system will be 2-3db on the AE version, which could handle over twice the power. Ive only just seen your post, so the model I have already done isnt really based on what you have asked for here, but as its already done I may as well post it now. If its really not going not work for you we can look at a redesign if you like.
 

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#80 ·
I'm trying to keep it as efficient as possible. Less is more for me. 1000 watts and under. The Dayton SA1000 is the standalone version. I want to avoid MDF. It's too heavy and hard to sand and paint. I'll just get a 3/4" thick baltic birch and add another layer of 1/4" thick baltic birch. Should the baffles for the drivers be thicker, like 2" and everything else 1" thick?
 
#81 ·
The Dayton driver isnt more efficient, the SDX can just handle more power and it works better in that sized cabinet, but the choice is yours. The double baffle is so you can have the driver flush mounted, as well as for stiffening the cabinet., so thats recommended. The rest of the cabinet is fine being 1" thick. Be sure to start a thread of you build this :T
 
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