After deciding what to build I came up with the following parts list from PartsExpress,
4 x F1687 Rubber Cabinet Foot 260-777
1 x Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 1 lb. Bag 260-317
2 x Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post 091-1245
1 x Dayton Audio 16 AWG OFC Speaker Wire 50 ft. 100-016
1 x TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer 293-650
Fortunately for me I had enough 1" MDF leftover from another project to make the cabinet. The only tools I used for this project was my table saw with a dado blade, a cordless drill, and a router.
Briefly, I rabbetted the sides of the top and bottom pieces to accept the sides. I also rabbetted the front and back edges of all four sides to accept the front and back baffles. I also cut a 1/4" deep groove in all four sides to accept the braces.
I first used the Jasper jig with a 3/4" bit to cut the 5/16" deep rabbet in which the driver will sit. I then used a 1/4" bit to cut out the final opening.
Sounds good only partially calibrated. I used the one bag of Acousta-Stuf Polyfill. I suspect that the well braced 1" MDF cabinet is fairly inert.
I've done some very rough measurements with an RS SPL meter and I do have some bad room peaks and valleys in my bass response. That's why I'm itching to take delivery of my BFD and start tinkering with REW.
Lowering the output on my sub amp did lower the overall curve ever so slightly as can be seen in Test 3. I have a really bad room resonance in the 36-40 Hz range. I think I'll try and flatten that next.
In Test 9 here I think I got a good handle on my room resonance around 36hz but I have to get rid of the major dip at 111Hz.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Home Theater Forum and Systems
742.3K posts
170.9K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to home theater owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about home audio/video, home theaters, troubleshooting, projects, DIY’s, product reviews and more!