2 'Splinters sealed

**Prozakk** · **11-27-07, 01:29 PM**

Well I change my mind (no suprise). I'm keeping my SVS Ultra/2. I couldn't get 1/2 of what I payed for it, thus don't want to get rid of it. But I want to build a sealed sub to be hooked up to augment the Ultra for music. The Ultra hits it volume limiter long before my (200w ea.) H/K Signature powered Paradigm Monitor 11v.4's.

I have a spare SVS plate amp rated at 1000w @ 7 ohms.

Should I make:

1~ 18"
2~ 2 x 15"
3~ 2 x 12"

Can somebody model the enclosures so I know the best route? #1 & #3 would be downfiring and preferrable the same width and depth as the Ultra/2, to be stacked on top. 19"w x 28" deep. #2 would have the subs mounted on the side, but still the same width/depth, to also be stacked on the Ultra.

I plan on buying a Behringer eq and could eq the subs seperately.

**funky_waves** · **11-27-07, 05:34 PM**

I would go with 2x15"s. Two 15"s will be more efficient and have more output capability than either 1 18" or two 12"s.
IMO, When stacking it may look better if the bottom sub was a couple inches bigger. otherwise the whole thing may look quite tall/top heavy.

**mrstampe** · **11-27-07, 06:24 PM**

While a 2x15" sealed enclosure may provide somewhat more SPL than 1x18", the significantly larger cabinet size may be prohibitive if stacking it on top of your SVS. I wonder if a single 15" SS wouldn't be a fair compromise of size and output, not to mention less cost for drivers than any of the other options. Take a look at FlashJim's design...

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...subwoofer.html

Powered by a Behringer EP2500, he seems to get quite a bit of punchy tight bass.

**fumoffu** · **11-27-07, 08:42 PM**

I just finished building my dual rl-p15 system. I love it. I need to update that thread.... With room gain I find it very solid down to 20Hz. And amazing tight bass for music, never heard anything like this before. I have it powered with an EP2500. I was playing War of the World at -10 and it was not complaining at all, it was happy and didn't even look like it was trying. I could feel the pants leg moving in the wind. I was afraid to push it further because my house was complaining too much.

How loud, low do you want to go? And what size is your room?

**funky_waves** · **11-27-07, 08:46 PM**

Oh, I thought you were saying you were going to put the svs on top. A single 15" would probably suit you fine, as the size you have is a little small for two, but a dual sub would have a lot less vibration if the subs are facing oposite directions. You would not want either sub to "walk" away and fall on the floor

**Prozakk** · **11-27-07, 09:46 PM**

I wouldn't be opposed to making it larger than the SVS and putting the SVS on top. Not looking forward to lifting it though. The drivers being considered are, of course, are Soundsplinter.

The SVS plate amp is rated @ 1000w @ 7 ohms, capable of 3000w peak. That peak would be a bit much for just 1 driver, but the rated power wouldn't really be enough for 2 would it?

How loud? As possible. Size: 2200 cu. ft.

**funky_waves** · **11-27-07, 11:40 PM**

If you want as loud as possible I would go with 2 15"s. Are you thinking the RL-p15 or RL-s15? The RL-p 15s in 170L would give a nice low Q but f3 would be up around 50hz, way too high IMO but if your going to eq you should be fine with those. The RL-s15 would have a decent f3 but the Q would be over 1.1 If you are open to other drivers two SDX 15's like I said in my first post(deleted because I read your post title agian and realized you said you are planning to use soundsplinter.) in 170 L internal box 17x26x26.with bracing, would give an f3 around 31hz and Q around .76, (according to my own measured specs) if you could go bigger 18wx27dx26t(internal) would be very good.

**Prozakk** · **11-27-07, 11:59 PM**

I'd like a Q of around 0.7. I was leaning toward the 18 though.

**funky_waves** · **11-28-07, 12:09 PM**

A single RLP18 models nearly identical curve and output with a little lower Q, in 170L with 1000 watts, to the dual sdx15's, but is much closer to its max excursion, still well under though. The dual SDX 15's would give you more headroom if you ever want to upgrade to more power in the future. Either would be an awsome sub

**Prozakk** · **11-28-07, 05:35 PM**

What's 170L in Cu. Ft.?

**avaserfi** · **11-28-07, 05:36 PM**

Quote:

Prozakk wrote:

What's 170L in Cu. Ft.?

6.003 feet cubed

**funky_waves** · **11-28-07, 05:36 PM**

6 cubic feet, sorry.

edit: lol you beat me,

**Prozakk** · **11-28-07, 05:38 PM**

Wow that was fast!

Thanks.

**Prozakk** · **11-28-07, 05:43 PM**

Including driver displacement, it will be 6.2 cu. ft. + more space from bracing.

Now I got to find some red oak to make the faceplate out of. It holds fasteners way better than MDF.

How much Poly-fill should I use? Or is there a better product to use to absorb standing waves?

**SteveCallas** · **11-29-07, 12:22 AM**

You'll find the sealed subs suitable for a while, then you'll want more. Build the LLTs and get it done right from the start

**funky_waves** · **11-29-07, 11:54 AM**

But the LLT will eventualy not be enough either and then you will need another, then they wont be enough then a bigger one, then another, then bigger...................... you just have to

to the addiction, the only thing you can do is try and keep the steps small otherwise you get to the

level way too fast.

**Blaser** · **11-29-07, 12:54 PM**

Steve meant that LLT allows the most out of the driver. While this is IMO true, it should be kept in mind that it is also relatively the biggest subwoofer.

**Prozakk** · **11-29-07, 05:09 PM**

I already have a sub that satisfies me most of the time. But for my 80's rock collection, that has little bass, I need just a little more umph...for Movies my SVS PB12 Ultra/2 is plenty o' bass.

If I hadn't of started my introduction into the audio world via car audio (my Civic hit 138db, weighted, with just 2- 12's

)

, I probably wouldn't be in this situation.

Everyone that hears my HT says it's too much NOW.

I say not yet...

Ahhh

...138db's in home would be sweet,

but an unrealistic goal, I know....

**SteveCallas** · **11-29-07, 08:11 PM**

Just an observation - if you current sub gives out before your speakers, then your current sub probably *isn't enough

**Prozakk** · **11-30-07, 01:19 PM**

Quote:

SteveCallas wrote:

Just an observation - if you current sub gives out before your speakers, then your current sub probably *isn't enough

As I explained above, it's only for bass-lacking 80's rock that my current sub isn't enough.

**saramac** · **11-30-07, 03:49 PM**

So the kick drums distort your sub? The frequency range for that is 40 to 80hz or so. The slam in the chest is around 100hz. Do your main speakers have decent bass drivers in them? If they do, try to cross over to the sub, at a lower frequency there by letting you mains produce more.

**Prozakk** · **12-03-07, 11:20 PM**

Quote:

saramac wrote:

So the kick drums distort your sub? The frequency range for that is 40 to 80hz or so. The slam in the chest is around 100hz. Do your main speakers have decent bass drivers in them? If they do, try to cross over to the sub, at a lower frequency there by letting you mains produce more.

I'm not getting distortion. I'm getting the amp limiter kicking in long before the mains start to distort.

What material should I use for fill? How much? Would it be beneficial to have the enclosure covered in spray on truck bedliner to match the SVS? 1/4" thick....

It will be a downfiring sub. How much space is needed between the faceplate and the base?

**vinculum** · **12-20-07, 03:55 AM**

Has anyone built a sealed sub based on the RL-p18?

It appears to me, that in a proper sized box, with proper amplification and EQ it should move as much air as a SVS PB13 Ultra in 20hz mode. Thoughts?

I know, EBS seems to be the alignment of choice. But 20+cf is hard to come by when you have a 45 sqft screen on a 12ft x 7ft wall.

Dr V

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