MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone - Page 52 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #511 of 887 Old 04-13-13, 11:22 PM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

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monomer wrote: View Post
Yes, you have a second batch UMIK. If you don't care about below 20Hz response then I think you should be fine using it with the current file for most stuff, however I'd suggest you might be happier if you reduced your sensitivity factor down to at least -18 and all those numbers after the decimal point is way overkill considering the factor is a bogus value anyway.
Thanks for the reply.

How do I reduce the sensitivity factor down to -18?
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post #512 of 887 Old 04-13-13, 11:26 PM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

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AudiocRaver wrote: View Post
A note of wariness on my part when I read this. It could be quite easy, true, and I hope for all concerned that it will be. I have been inside a tube-construction mic before, and consider myself fairly good at the electronic and mechanical side of projects like that, and I could never get it back together satisfactorily. It would be good to see step-by-step photos and tool requirements before commiting to do that job oneself. It would be a shame to have a few "now it doesn't work AT ALL" cases come out of this.
I hear ya... there are currently a couple of guys that have soldered in big old radial capacitors onto these boards and I was wondering how the they got it all back together. There is also a resistor mod that's the DevTeam has suggested and I'm told the SMDs are 0603... awhile back I replace a couple 0805 resistors on an amp board and that's my limit. As far as doing modding individual components on a board, that's a bit too small for me but to replace a whole board? how hard can that be really? I'm thinking its just soldering a couple wires right? and the physical board should be the same so it 'should' just slip back into the housing. I've never done this before but I'm imagining most anyone with a soldering iron should be capable. DevTeam mention getting some pictures and instruction posted on doing the mod. They've also hinted twice now that they will do the work for anyone who isn't a DIY kinda guy... I'm going to assume that they will pick up the tab for shipping BOTH ways, though that hasn't been mentioned. Not cheap to ship to Hong Kong, not to mention the lengthy time getting through customs... I could see it taking weeks to get a mic back unless its through Speed Post which is quite expensive. It would be better if they set up some sort of exchange system. Of course this is all just pre-mature speculation as they've yet to even get these revised boards manufactured for us and who knows how long that will be. They also promised to notify all second batch UMIK owners by email when this does happen... that will be a first (I mean the part about emailing UMIK owners informing them of anything that's been going on).
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post #513 of 887 Old 04-13-13, 11:27 PM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

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Matter of interest would the exchange be totally no charge including freight?

Understanding both sides, economics and customer service this should of happened awhile ago.
For ongoing business it's still is a concern that most people are totally unaware of this problem (# of mics vs complaints).
It would be great if they could just issue a new calibration file that you could download but since each mic is unique how would they do that?

Otherwise I'd just soon send my mic back and be sent a new one that works right.
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post #514 of 887 Old 04-13-13, 11:33 PM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

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rajacat wrote: View Post
Thanks for the reply.

How do I reduce the sensitivity factor down to -18?
Just open up the file in any text editor, like Notepad for instance and change the number... then save the file and that's it.
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post #515 of 887 Old 04-13-13, 11:39 PM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

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rajacat wrote: View Post
It would be great if they could just issue a new calibration file that you could download but since each mic is unique how would they do that?

Otherwise I'd just soon send my mic back and be sent a new one that works right.
The mic manufacturer has the 'raw' calibration data from the factory floor test bed... a calibration file is then generated from this using a script that uses a reference mic so theoretically they don't need to measure your mic again to correct errors in the script. Their claim is that the reference mic was improperly measured and they seem confident that they can produce a corrected file by revising the script. Supposedly these revised boards shouldn't affect the measured frequency calibration data but all this remains to be seen. At this point I don't feel confident about anything they are saying... they've disappointed me too many times already. They've shown in the past that they are not willing to share all pertinent information and will keep quiet about some things they are doing. I'm just really bothered by the fact that the third batch UMIKs have reasonable calibration files and yet the second batch UMIKs do not... I'm certain they used the same script to generate the 10Hz calibration files for both batches of UMIKs and yet they end up vastly different... there is something we are NOT being told about those revised boards and that bugs me.

This stuff just leaves me weary, why can't they make it simple?

I'd like to just send them back my UMIK and have them cross ship me a third batch UMIK so I don't have to wait forever and wonder if they sent it back to the factory to be remeasured or not... then they can rework and recalibrate that one and sell as fourth batch UMIK to some future customer.

Last edited by monomer; 04-14-13 at 12:01 AM.
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post #516 of 887 Old 04-14-13, 05:36 AM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

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monomer wrote: View Post
I hear ya... there are currently a couple of guys that have soldered in big old radial capacitors onto these boards and I was wondering how the they got it all back together. There is also a resistor mod that's the DevTeam has suggested and I'm told the SMDs are 0603... awhile back I replace a couple 0805 resistors on an amp board and that's my limit. As far as doing modding individual components on a board, that's a bit too small for me but to replace a whole board? how hard can that be really? I'm thinking its just soldering a couple wires right? and the physical board should be the same so it 'should' just slip back into the housing. I've never done this before but I'm imagining most anyone with a soldering iron should be capable. DevTeam mention getting some pictures and instruction posted on doing the mod. They've also hinted twice now that they will do the work for anyone who isn't a DIY kinda guy...
Here is what I am trying to visualize. The mic capsule has a pair of wires, probably twisted, going to the circuit board. That twisted pair has to be long enough to be stretched out so the circuit board can be pulled out all the way so the connection point for that pair of wires is exposed, so they can be unsoldered and resoldered to the new board. All this without removing the mic capsule which is - glued? pressed? screwed? - into place, and hopefully without accidentally breaking one of the connections at the capsule, which would be impossible to get at to repair without removing the capsule and the tiny screen over it, if it even can be done safely and without special tooling, and then re-screwing/gluing/pressing it into place (plus the screen, however it is retained). Then you have the extra wire to get pushed back into the tube - how was it originally arranged at factory assembly, folded back and forth? stretched along the circuit board? nicely coiled? is it even possible to duplicate the original arrangement/positioning of the wire without duplicating the entire assembly process? does it matter? is any kind of capacitive coupling a concern, with possible affect on high-frequency response if that extra wire positioning is done "poorly," whatever that may be? Then the extra wire is pushed back into the tube by the new circuit board as it is re-inserted. Is there anything it might catch on, causing it to be pulled out of proper position/pushed into a bad position/break a connection/get pinched and broken/get pinched and have conductor exposed to short against the outer tube/get pinched and jam the circuit board so it cannot be inserted or removed without damage? Or what if the extra wire gets balled up wrong and holds the board from sliding in all the way easily, is it OK to push a little? how hard?..... I could go on.

All this and when the DIY repairer is done, she/he expects to have a precision instrument that meets factory specs and is reliable and performs within a fraction of a dB of the curve that was measured at the factory.

Granted, my one experience opening a tubular-construction condenser mic was 99% negative, and I was a bit obsessive about getting it back together just right (which never happened, it is still in pieces), and maybe the UMIK-1 design will be easy to work with, but based on my experience and having a bit of an idea how mics like that are constructed... I would not sign up to do that work without knowing a lot of detail about how it should go and what it should look like when done.

I am not trying to be an alarmist, only a realist about how tricky the job could be. I hate to think of my HTS mates hollering about nightmare repair jobs &/or unsatisfactory results.
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post #517 of 887 Old 04-14-13, 11:29 AM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

I am also waiting for a final solution from DSP having a second gen UMIC ser 387 but i have a question about sensitivity between the 20 db and the new 10 db calibration file. They both look exactly the same on measurement but are 5 db apart in sensitivity, one showing sensitivity factor -24.2721 for 10 hz the other -21.1 for the 20 hz file. Which measurement is correct.

Thanks for any help
New to rew trying to learn.
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post #518 of 887 Old 04-14-13, 04:04 PM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

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AudiocRaver wrote: View Post
Here is what I am trying to visualize. The mic capsule has a pair of wires, probably twisted, going to the circuit board. That twisted pair has to be long enough to be stretched out so the circuit board can be pulled out all the way so the connection point for that pair of wires is exposed, so they can be unsoldered and resoldered to the new board. All this without removing the mic capsule which is - glued? pressed? screwed? - into place, and hopefully without accidentally breaking one of the connections at the capsule, which would be impossible to get at to repair without removing the capsule and the tiny screen over it, if it even can be done safely and without special tooling, and then re-screwing/gluing/pressing it into place (plus the screen, however it is retained). Then you have the extra wire to get pushed back into the tube - how was it originally arranged at factory assembly, folded back and forth? stretched along the circuit board? nicely coiled? is it even possible to duplicate the original arrangement/positioning of the wire without duplicating the entire assembly process? does it matter? is any kind of capacitive coupling a concern, with possible affect on high-frequency response if that extra wire positioning is done "poorly," whatever that may be? Then the extra wire is pushed back into the tube by the new circuit board as it is re-inserted. Is there anything it might catch on, causing it to be pulled out of proper position/pushed into a bad position/break a connection/get pinched and broken/get pinched and have conductor exposed to short against the outer tube/get pinched and jam the circuit board so it cannot be inserted or removed without damage? Or what if the extra wire gets balled up wrong and holds the board from sliding in all the way easily, is it OK to push a little? how hard?..... I could go on.

All this and when the DIY repairer is done, she/he expects to have a precision instrument that meets factory specs and is reliable and performs within a fraction of a dB of the curve that was measured at the factory.

Granted, my one experience opening a tubular-construction condenser mic was 99% negative, and I was a bit obsessive about getting it back together just right (which never happened, it is still in pieces), and maybe the UMIK-1 design will be easy to work with, but based on my experience and having a bit of an idea how mics like that are constructed... I would not sign up to do that work without knowing a lot of detail about how it should go and what it should look like when done.

I am not trying to be an alarmist, only a realist about how tricky the job could be. I hate to think of my HTS mates hollering about nightmare repair jobs &/or unsatisfactory results.


Exactly

What if the DIY ends up wrecking etc the mic does the DIY get a refund or new mic?

Wouldn't it be in the interest of DSP to admit there faults and just replace the mics concerned?

Economics would say sending a new mic to the owners better than sending the old ones back to get repaired then freight (there and back). Their cost price would determine this.
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post #519 of 887 Old 04-14-13, 09:09 PM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

At what number does batch 2 start? I have one that is definitely batch 1, but I'm not sure if my other one is batch 2.

Today I did a little experiment with my batch 1 mic and compared the response with the original cal file against the newer cal file. The two plots look nearly identical, which makes me feel pretty good about all the measurements I've taken with the old cal file.

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post #520 of 887 Old 04-14-13, 09:17 PM
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Re: MiniDSP UMIK-1 Microphone

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fuzz092888 wrote: View Post
At what number does batch 2 start? I have one that is definitely batch 1, but I'm not sure if my other one is batch 2.

Today I did a little experiment with my batch 1 mic and compared the response with the original cal file against the newer cal file. The two plots look nearly identical, which makes me feel pretty good about all the measurements I've taken with the old cal file.
First batch UMIKs end at the serial #188 and second batch UMIKs are serial #190-539... there is no serial #189 appears third batch is serial #540-???

I suspect the biggest difference you'll find between files in the first batch is below 20Hz response. With the second batch it is any thing below 990Hz and basically gets worse the lower you measure but there are other issues with these UMIKs beyond just the crazy calibration file.
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