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-   -   HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix (https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-screen-development-testing/23090-hts-x2-experimental-n8-reflective-screen-mix.html)

Harpmaker 11-21-09 11:36 PM

HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix

We have a number of experimental mixes in development; one that has been designated HTS-X2 has recently been tested by 1canuck2 and he will be adding info and photos to this thread.

HTS-X2 is part of a family of mixes that will run from N9 to ~N7.6. The paints used in these mixes are readily available in many, if not most, areas of the U.S. and Canada. Basically, a N6 gray paint is added to regular Cream&Sugar™ to get darker shades.

HTS-X2 is a N8 reflective screen mix.

This is the mix that will be called Elektra™ N8.

1canuck2 11-22-09 09:22 AM

Re: HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix

My HTS-X2 was a Behr-based mix. Here's the formula Harp gave me:


HTS-X2 is a 8:1 mix of C&S™ and N6 paints. It doesn't matter which C&S™ formula you use. I'm assuming you will use Behr paints from Home Depot.


The N6 tint formula for Behr is:
For 1 quart
Base = Behr #1854
      oz.    348 oz.
B -  1          6
C -  0        79
F -  0        22

Depending on how much final mix you need you could always have them make this up in a 8 oz. sampler.

The breakdown of the HTS-X2 mix is:
32 fl. oz. Behr #1850 tinted for C&S™ #3

C&S™ #3 base.
1 quart of Behr #1850
Tint  oz.  384th oz.
C        0      4
F        0      1

16 fl. oz. of Craft Smart metallic Silver

6 fl. oz. Behr N6 paint.

This totals 54 fl. oz. of final HTS-X2.
The bad news is when I went to Home Depot to pick up the paints, they told me both 1850 and 1854 have been discontinued. I had to go to three Home Depots to find one quart of each base and get the mix I needed.

1canuck2 11-22-09 09:25 AM

Re: HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix

I mixed up the paints and used about 2 fl oz of distilled water to rinse out the various containers. It was still pretty thick looking but rolled nicely. I used the Tiddler single roller method completing each "stripe" with a gentle downroll, overlapping the previous by half a roller.

My first coat scared me because after it had dried for a couple of hours, it was "blotchy" (there was a speckled effect of dark and light, pretty consistently across the screen as if some parts dried thicker and other parts dried thinner). I rolled the second coat at about two hours and after an hour it looked tons better. I decided to roll a third coat since I had the paint to spare.

After the third coat had dried for about 90 minutes I could not resist and fired up the PJ. Without it fully curing and without a greyscale recalibration, it still looked pretty good to my eye! Blacks were definitely better and white still looked good. I watched a few minutes of Bolt, there's a scene where Bolt (white furry dog) and Mittens (black furry cat) are wrestling around and the detail in both the black fur and white fur was pretty good. I also checked out my standard test movie, the Fifth Element and it looked superb. So first impressions are high!

I took a bunch of photos of the process that I'll post here later. I will also try to take some "good" shots of the screen once it has cured (and I learn how to use the white balance feature on my camera...)

1canuck2 11-22-09 08:59 PM

Re: HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix

Here's some pics.

Supplies all laid out:

Two quarts. One is the base for C&S one is the N6 paint Harp came up with.

The C&S base before mixing in the Craft Silver Metallic:

HTS-X2 mix in the can:

HTS-X2 again:

Ready to roll:

The next three shots are the screen (124" diagonal) after rolling three coats of HTS-X2 and a 28 hour cure.

All the lights on, camera flash on:

Partial lights on:

Lights off, just the flash:

I don't really see a difference between the three shots, I guess that's cos the flash fired off for all three. Should I try a shot with the lights all on and no flash? I am not much of a photographer beyond pressing the button on a decent point and shoot, but if there's any particular shots you want to see, let me know and I'll take them. Harp suggested taking a screen shot after calibrating the white balance to a white screen from a calibration disk. I'll try and grab that and any others you want to see tomorrow night after the paint has cured for a full 48 hours.

Harpmaker 11-22-09 09:39 PM

Re: HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix

Sorry about that 1C2, in my PM to you about this I failed to mention I was talking about taking screen photos of movie still frames and not the naked screen - my bad. For taking shots like that you would almost certainly need a camera tripod since the shutter speeds will be quite long. If a tripod is not available, try to put the camera on something that can't move (tall table, table with books stacked to bring the camera up closer to "normal viewing height", even the back of a chair can help).

1canuck2 11-22-09 10:34 PM

Re: HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix

Hey Harp, I understood that your suggestion was for movie stills. I haven't tried the white balance thing yet, I am hoping for a couple of other shot suggestions people would like to see and I'll do them all tomorrow. The shots above were just everything on full auto on my camera at various light levels.

Also, I have a tripod (the three shots above were all taken from about 17 feet back from a tripod) and I'll be sure to use it for the movie still images too. Any specific movies that you want to see images from?

Harpmaker 11-23-09 02:57 AM

Re: HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix


1canuck2 wrote: (Post 208980)
Any specific movies that you want to see images from?

Wbassett is the movie guru in these parts so he might have some suggestions for you, but you can never go wrong with the screenies from The Fifth Element.

1canuck2 11-29-09 12:35 PM

Re: HTS-X2 - an experimental N8 reflective screen mix

1 Attachment(s)

I've been a bit tardy about calibrating my PJ after applying the HTS-X2, but today I finally found time to lie on the floor for two hours running through a calibration.

My PJ is an Epson 6500UB with only ~75 hours on the bulb. I only have a Spyder3 colorimeter, so take the results with the appropriate pinch of salt given the gear I have. I used HCFR and followed the procedures in a thread I found on AVS using the 75% Saturation windows. Gamma was a bit of a pain in the bum, but I think the results look good.

Attach is the CHC file (zipped) from HCFR showing the post calibration grayscale results. I am not an expert and don't really know if the attached results are anything to be happy with, but my eye says it looks good.

I plan to take some screenies (hopefully tonight) and will set the white balance of my camera to a 100% White screen from the calibration disk I used (AVSHD709) before taking the shots.

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