screen paint for new zealand - Page 4 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 55 Old 03-30-11, 12:03 AM
Shackster
 
<^..^>Smokey Joe's Avatar
<^..^>SJ
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 92
Re: screen paint for new zealand

The roller length of nap has more effect than specifically the oil based roller. I've used both types, result is much the same. The paint flatterning agents where there is less in matt type paints has more effects on the suface texture, sanding under layers reduces the compounding nature of layers.

I would hesitate sanding the top layer unless you can avoid sanding marks, also wait a few weeks for the paint to really harden, being thick it takes a while. If you don't notice any thing or texture about the image I'd be tempted to leave the surface alone.

Light changes what it is doing depending if we are looking or not. Considering we only see this as a reflection of the past....what is it really doing now?
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.
<^..^>Smokey Joe is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 55 Old 03-30-11, 03:37 AM Thread Starter
Shackster
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Christchurch
Posts: 41
Re: screen paint for new zealand

sweet, the picture looks great to me compared to the grey I had before. i dont really see any difference in the light between the 2 but when its dark it comes alive even at 140" live hd sport like the grand prix above cant wait to get my add on boarder made to see it at 120"

I cant see sand marks will let harden off for a few weeks and then maybe another light sand. I cant seem to get it consistent with the mohair some smooth and some sharp little peaks like mini meringues. May I find it easier with a normal roller?

cheers Jase

Jase
jaseskiwi is offline  
post #33 of 55 Old 03-30-11, 03:07 PM
Moderator Emeritus
Don
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central PA
Posts: 3,772
Re: screen paint for new zealand

I can't give you any specific roller recommendation, just the shorter the nap the better as it will leave less texture in the paint. Rather than try to sand out any remaining texture I think I would try adding an ingredient designed to aid the paint in flowing to a smooth finish. In the States we have a product called Floetrol (a liquid that is basically latex paint without pigment) that does this without affecting the color or gloss of the paint. Perhaps Smokey could recommend a similar product local to you. You could also try simply adding some water to the paint to thin it, but be careful since too much will get it too thin and let it run. If you are literally getting "meringue peaks" (great analogy ) then the paint is too thick.

As for sanding the final coat of paint, don't; it's simply too difficult to get an even finish over such a large screen this way.

The flatter finish a paint is the less it will show any texture beneath it or in the paint itself.
Harpmaker is offline  
 
post #34 of 55 Old 03-30-11, 04:09 PM
Shackster
 
<^..^>Smokey Joe's Avatar
<^..^>SJ
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 92
Re: screen paint for new zealand

Paint is a chemical process, generally most paints start as matt and flattening agents are added to smooth the finish for gloss types. The agents also thin out the paint of the important true reflective component, TiO2.

Im afraid this is where painted screens comes unstuck, spraying can be better as long as you do dusting type applications, either way the chemical nature again creates the gathering and texture of a painted surface.

There are some options in the resene range for additives, however they are nasty to handle, better to just go up a grade in type, of course you head to the hotspotting issue when you go to far. Lustacryl would be possibly the next choise jase, although I'd do a test board on mdf before mucking about with current surface.
http://www.resene.co.nz/archspec/dat...arch_index.htm

Light changes what it is doing depending if we are looking or not. Considering we only see this as a reflection of the past....what is it really doing now?
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures.
<^..^>Smokey Joe is offline  
post #35 of 55 Old 03-30-11, 06:17 PM
Moderator Emeritus
Don
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central PA
Posts: 3,772
Re: screen paint for new zealand

Here is a link to the Floetrol additive. I did some testing of this to see if it changed the color of a paint and I found no significant change in it's recommended concentrations. In it's pure form it resembles what we call a "deep base" here in the U.S. which is a latex paint with little or no TiO2 in it.

From what I can document on "flattening agents" they are added to paints and varnishes to LESSEN the gloss of these products. I thought things might be different Down Under, but then I ran across this link for an Australian flattening agent and it seems they work the same way as the ones in the States.

While adding some Floetrol (or a similar product) to paint would thin it slightly thus decreasing the amount of TiO2 in the whole mix by a small amount, I sincerely doubt you would be able to tell it by looking at the painted wall/screen, or even under projection.
Harpmaker is offline  
post #36 of 55 Old 10-26-11, 06:40 PM
gazzagazza
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 19
Re: screen paint for new zealand

Just footnote here... I just found this thread. I had been looking for an N8 grey paint here in New Zealand. The best candidate I had located is Dulux "Ashville" RGB 200,199,199.

Don't know what the spectral response would be, but I liked that it had the slightest increase in Red over the others. I'm going to try some and see what the results are.
Gazzagazza is offline  
post #37 of 55 Old 10-26-11, 07:16 PM
gazzagazza
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 19
Re: screen paint for new zealand

I've been a member for a long time... years, but first post
Gazzagazza is offline  
post #38 of 55 Old 10-27-11, 04:48 PM
gazzagazza
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 19
Re: screen paint for new zealand

OK, well I can see this is going to be fun. Bought some Ashville, and painted up a piece of card with 2 coats. Considering the RGB values 200,199,199 this is not a neutral grey, but one that tends a little to the beige. (not hard to notice) I even went back and checked the tint with the store, and it appears they got their settings right.

I will paint it up as an experiment at least, but I'm puzzled as to why what would have seemed to be such a neutral spec turned out this way.

I guess, based on what I've read elsewhere here that with a beige hint I could add some aluminium powder to it to push it in the right direction?

This will be a very imprecise experiment, I can tell
Gazzagazza is offline  
post #39 of 55 Old 10-27-11, 06:54 PM
Moderator Emeritus
Don
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central PA
Posts: 3,772
Re: screen paint for new zealand

Quote:
Gazzagazza wrote: View Post
OK, well I can see this is going to be fun. Bought some Ashville, and painted up a piece of card with 2 coats. Considering the RGB values 200,199,199 this is not a neutral grey, but one that tends a little to the beige. (not hard to notice) I even went back and checked the tint with the store, and it appears they got their settings right.

I will paint it up as an experiment at least, but I'm puzzled as to why what would have seemed to be such a neutral spec turned out this way.
It is almost impossible to judge the color neutrality of a paint by eye, that is why we need colorimeters or spectrophotometers.

To even come close to judging a neutral color by eye you MUST have a sample of the neutral color to compare your paint sample to.

RGB 200, 199, 199 is a true neutral gray with a Munsell neutral gray value (what we just call an N value) of 8.0 (an N8 shade of gray). The L*a*b* values would be 80.32, 0.349, 0.113. I would say that if this paint is looking visibly beige to you that something is wrong somewhere.

Quote:
I guess, based on what I've read elsewhere here that with a beige hint I could add some aluminium powder to it to push it in the right direction?
You could compensate for the beige color by adding some silver paint to the mix, but I would NOT add metallic aluminum powder, flakes or dust. Unless the metal have been specially chemically treated so it can be safely added to water-based compounds it could produce an exothermic reaction hot enough to start a fire! Also, most aluminum powers are not very reflective. If you want to experiment adding aluminum to paint I highly recommend finding a source of water-based aluminum paint and mixing that into your paint mix. We have found that Auto Air Aluminum-fine #4101 is available almost world-wide. It is an automotive paint, but many airbrush paint suppliers sell it as well.
Harpmaker is offline  
post #40 of 55 Old 10-27-11, 07:04 PM
gazzagazza
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 19
Re: screen paint for new zealand

Visibly beige... well lets say a warm grey... I had the store check the formula, I was the last customer they had tinted for and the machine was still set... we checked against the computer formula, and all was correct. Put my painted sample against a colour card (its from an extended range, not the usual consumer range) and the tint matched the card. So the tint is OK.

I see in another thread mention of someone in Australia having used Ashville..

I've ordered some Liquitex Basics Silver... 2 x 4oz tubes... I can play with that as an additive I guess.

I should also put aside some sample cards and ask someone to run a spectrum.
Gazzagazza is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
paint , screen , zealand

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now




PLEASE COMPLETE ALL REQUIRED FIELDS BELOW... THANKS!

REQUIRED FIELDS ON THIS PAGE
YOU MUST COMPLETE ALL OF THESE

Username
Password
Confirm Password
Email Address
Confirm Email Address
Random Question
Random Question #2




User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
PLEASE READ BELOW PRIOR TO ENTERING AN EMAIL ADDRESS!

ATTENTION!

YOU MUST ACTIVATE YOUR ACCOUNT!

Activation requires you reply to an email we will send you after you register... if you do not reply to this email, you will not be able to view certain areas of the forum or certain images... nor will you be able download software.

AN INVALID EMAIL ADDRESS WILL CAUSE YOUR ACCOUNT TO BE DELETED!

See our banned email list here: Banned Email List

We DO NOT respond to spamcop, boxtrapper and spamblocker emails... please add @hometheatershack DOT com to your whitelist prior to registering or you will get nowhere on your registration.


Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML is not allowed!
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 


For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome