New Shackster needs a Painted Screen! - Page 10 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #91 of 144 Old 08-16-07, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
12th Man
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 61
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
I can't see any metallic flakes in your texture photos. Can you see them with your eyes?
I will have to inspect closer when I get home.
Quote:
There should have been lots of mica from the Delta metallic paints. Did you rinse the little bottles out well with poly and water when making up the SF? Did you stir the satin poly well before adding it to the mix?
Uh.......well.....The answers are NO and YES, respectively. As I have stated throughout, (a) I am new to all of this, (b) it is entirely possible that the poor results were my fault (obviously) and (c) I made every attempt to follow the instructions given to the letter. The part about rinsing the Delta bottles out with poly & water is the first time I have seen that suggested anywhere. Maybe I overlooked it somewhere and it certainly was not spelled out in the SF instructions. Maybe it is Painting 101 common sense. All I did was thoroughly empty the bottles into the SF mix until nothing else came out when banging on the bottle. Another lesson learned.

I did mix the satin poly.

Quote:
The other question I would have is do you think the shade of gray is dark enough for your ambient light conditions?
As noted in earlier posts, my current thinking has evolved to the point where I am leaning to a light gray to white screen so yes, I think it is dark enough.
12th Man is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #92 of 144 Old 08-16-07, 11:41 AM
Elite Shackster
 
wbassett's Avatar
Bill
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Central PA
Posts: 2,234
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
cynical2 wrote: View Post
Good, thanks for the info. That confirms what I've been thinking. I'm considering using some other colors for the room walls since the price is so reasonable.

Would you have any reservations using it as a wall covering... maybe black everywhere on the screen wall, surrounding the screen...and other colors on the other 3 walls? Do you think it would look like a quality job, or "cheap"?
No but my current room isn't really a dedicated theater so that would probably look out of place in that room. For a dedicated theater, it might look quite nice and lend a rich look to the walls, like the fabric wall panels you see.

As discussed elsewhere, you have to always be concerned for any potential fire hazzard. Although I don't see it as a major problem if it was to be put on a wall, you might want to check your insurance policy just in case. Worse scenario something happens and it's not even in your theater room, if it is deemed a fire hazzard your insurance company could give you a hard time with any claims even though it didn't cause the fire. If there are no restrictions, there are some nice looking fabrics that you could use.

I'm not sure if this is everywhere, but the Walmarts in my area are getting rid of the craft area and sewing materials. You might be able to get it even cheaper on clearance sales.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein

"If all else fails, spin the cat."- Grzboken
wbassett is offline  
post #93 of 144 Old 08-16-07, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
12th Man
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 61
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Is this this exact stuff? I tried calling the closest Michaels and it became clear that the clerk was not interested in helping with my scavenger hunt and that I would be better off going myself. Would it be most likely to be near the craft paints like the Delta stuff I used for Silver Fire or in the section with all the artists paints?

You can also order it direct from Plaid (parent company of FolkArt brand) here. Cost is $2.19 US plus $4.60 shipping but they have temporarily suspended shipments to Canada (tiddler!). The store locator returned all kinds of options (Walmart, JoAnn, Michaels) but from Cynical2's experience I have my doubts.

FolkArt Pearlizing Medium #487
12th Man is offline  
 
post #94 of 144 Old 08-16-07, 12:32 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 360
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

That's the the stuff. I got mine from Wal-Mart. If lightening the screen color is not a concern then the Folkart Metallic White Pearl maybe easier to find. I was using two 2oz. bottles to the quart of the white pearl before I tried the Pearlizing Medium.

The more pearl flakes the more gain and the greater the likelihood you will not down roll it properly and get streaks. If your base paint (SF) is already loaded with mica flakes then I would play it safe and just add one bottle of the Folkart Metallic White Pearl. Easy to find and less likely to have problems.
Tiddler is offline  
post #95 of 144 Old 08-16-07, 12:33 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 360
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

I just added the following to the Pearl Clear Coat Trials thread:
Preparation & Application of the Pearl Clear Coat

In a separate container combine one quart of Behr Matte Polyurethane #780 and one 2oz. bottle of Folkart Pearlizing Medium. The Folkart Pearlizing Medium can be found in the craft paint section of Wal-Mart or Michaels Arts & Crafts. I have found a 1 or 2 oz. syringe with a catheter tip is very helpful. You can get one of these from a veterinary office. The pearlizing medium is very thick. Squeeze as much out of the bottle as you can. Fill the bottle half way with poly using the syringe. Put the lid back on and shake. Pour out the poly and repeat until you see that all the pearl has been rinsed out of the bottle. Be sure to mix the poly well before dumping it into the container for mixing. The flattening ingredients in the poly settles to the bottom of the can. You want to be sure you mix the flattening agents into the poly before mixing it with the pearl. Mix the poly + pearl very thoroughly using a drill attachment. Be sure to stir the pearl clear coat every time you go to use it.

To apply the white or gray base coat refer to the Basic Roller Painting Instructions.
The following clip is included in the instructions.




The application of the Pearl Clear Coat is similar with a simple addition of down rolling. This final uni-direction rolling causes all the pearl flakes to be aligned the same way. This is demonstrated in these video clips:





NOTE: In the video I made one minor error when down rolling. Notice the end of the roller the handle is attached to. The pressure on the handle end is actually slightly higher than the free end of the roller. I should have been rolling with the roller flipped over so the free end was the last part of the roller to down roll the screen. I was also not getting enough polyurethane on the screen and ended up redoing the base coat and top coat to fix the streaks. So remember load as much Pearl Clear coat on the roller as it will hold. Always trail with the free end of the roller when down rolling.

Well that's all I have to offer to the low lumen crowd. I hope it is of some use to those who can get these paint products. For those in other countries the basic concept is applicable to use with products you can find locally. Any pure white base paint can be tinted to near neutral with a ratio of 2:1 or 3:1 of Black tint to Yellow tint. For very highly pigmented bases I recommend the 2:1 ratio. For primers and lower pigmented bases I would go with the 3:1 ratio. Some companies have different names for these tint pigments. The black should be fairly easy to identify. The Yellow Oxide is a dirty yellow color like regular mustard.
I have posted similar instructions so many places I have lost track where. I may not have ever posted it here on HTS. I need to get it together and properly present all this stuff soon.
Tiddler is offline  
post #96 of 144 Old 08-20-07, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
12th Man
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 61
Frame

Can someone help me with the precise cut lengths I need for a 126" screen framed with 1x3 poplar and 45 degree corners? The viewable image according to the calculator on Projector Central is 62" H x 110" W. So adding 3" on each side for the width of the poplar and I get 68"x116" but something tells me there are more exact measurements to be made.

I've read that 1x3 poplar is actually ~2.5" wide. So would the correct lengths then be 67" (2) and 115" (2)? Has anyone used the "Hangman" product? I was wondering if that particular system allows the frame to sit flush against the wall.

Thanks!
12th Man is offline  
post #97 of 144 Old 08-20-07, 04:07 PM
Senior Shackster
Jim
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 560
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

I've read somewhere that you should actually project an image on the wall and measure it to determine frame dimension.

But, you didn't ask that, so I'll answer what you did ask (based on 16:9...which I'm not 100% sure is the exact standard or not).

62.00" x 110.22" (about 110 1/4), gives a screen diagonal of 126.46"

61.75" x 109.78" gives a screen diagonal of 125.95"...you could just use 61 3/4 x 109 3/4 and you'll be close to 126" diagonal.

And, for the super-accurate out there...

61.7729" x 109.8185" gives a screen of exactly 126" diagonal.

Regarding cutting...cut a 45 degree angle on one end. Then, from the "short" end of the angle you just cut, measure the appropriate distance as outlined above (e.g. 61 3/4" for one of the vertical boards). Mark that measurement, and then make the cut on the other end in the opposite direction, making sure that the "short" side is as long as the mark you made from the measurement.

So, the board should be shaped like this when cut:

__________________________
\________________________/
This blue line in the above
sketch should match the screen
dimension you need.

Just let the outside dimensions of the frame fall where they may. You are right in that the frame will add twice the board width in both directions...but it may not be EXACTLY 2.5" per board...there can be variation in that dimension, as lumber isn't perfect.

So, you just focus on getting the short sides to match your desired screen dimension...that's the bottom line. (Oh, and that I would strongly consider just measuring the dimensions of a projected image on the wall...then you're 100% sure that the frame you're building is a perfect match for the projector/screen combination.)

Good luck!
cynical2 is offline  
post #98 of 144 Old 08-21-07, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
12th Man
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 61
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
cynical2 wrote: View Post
So, you just focus on getting the short sides to match your desired screen dimension...that's the bottom line. (Oh, and that I would strongly consider just measuring the dimensions of a projected image on the wall...then you're 100% sure that the frame you're building is a perfect match for the projector/screen combination.)
Geez, I try to ask an over thought, over complicated question and all I get it a common sense response?

Thanks man. Makes perfect sense.

Any recommendations on hanging hardware? I know the mirror clips are a possibility and may go that route. I do want a frame that is both removable (for the next great paint application) and flush to the wall (as much as possible). Velcro?? How heavy will a 1x3 poplar frame of this size be?

And because there can never be too many dancing bananas...






12th Man is offline  
post #99 of 144 Old 08-21-07, 10:37 AM
Senior Shackster
Jim
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 560
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
12th Man wrote: View Post
Geez, I try to ask an over thought, over complicated question and all I get it a common sense response?

Thanks man. Makes perfect sense.

Any recommendations on hanging hardware? I know the mirror clips are a possibility and may go that route. I do want a frame that is both removable (for the next great paint application) and flush to the wall (as much as possible). Velcro?? How heavy will a 1x3 poplar frame of this size be?

And because there can never be too many dancing bananas...






Hey, I've over thought this whole DIY screen thing to death...I understand, believe me.

I don't know of any great mounting options, and haven't been through the framing process myself (yet). But, if you're going to wrap it in velvet I've read multiple times that you can just nail it up with small finishing nails. The nap of the velvet will apparently cover up the nails. If you have a compressor, just put it on about 125psi and blow some small brads right through the velvet. If you are using a hammer, you'll need to use a punch to sink the nails through the velvet and bury the head in the wood.

Here's a link to a post I made with another mounting option that is only applicable in some situations (depending on your home's configuration).

Whatever you do, you want to make sure that the frame is completely flush to the wall. You don't want light leaking between the wall and frame...(at least my intuition is that would be a bad thing). So, it doesn't seem to me like velcro would be the best solution. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

One thing I've thought about doing, to deal with any irregularities in the "flatness" of the wall, is to get a roll of soft foam weather stripping tape (comes in about 1/2" width at HD or Lowe's) and taping it to the back side of the frame. It compresses to completely flat (it's very porous), but will also fill any gaps anywhere the frame isn't perfectly flush to the wall. Here's a link to what I'm talking about. This will make it where no light can leak between the frame and wall, even if either the frame or the wall isn't perfectly flat.

Good luck!

Last edited by cynical2; 08-21-07 at 10:45 AM.
cynical2 is offline  
post #100 of 144 Old 08-23-07, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
12th Man
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 61
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
cynical2 wrote: View Post
I've read somewhere that you should actually project an image on the wall and measure it to determine frame dimension.

But, you didn't ask that, so I'll answer what you did ask (based on 16:9...which I'm not 100% sure is the exact standard or not).

62.00" x 110.22" (about 110 1/4), gives a screen diagonal of 126.46"

61.75" x 109.78" gives a screen diagonal of 125.95"...you could just use 61 3/4 x 109 3/4 and you'll be close to 126" diagonal.

And, for the super-accurate out there...

61.7729" x 109.8185" gives a screen of exactly 126" diagonal.

Regarding cutting...cut a 45 degree angle on one end. Then, from the "short" end of the angle you just cut, measure the appropriate distance as outlined above (e.g. 61 3/4" for one of the vertical boards). Mark that measurement, and then make the cut on the other end in the opposite direction, making sure that the "short" side is as long as the mark you made from the measurement.

So, the board should be shaped like this when cut:

__________________________
________________________/
This blue line in the above
sketch should match the screen
dimension you need.

Just let the outside dimensions of the frame fall where they may. You are right in that the frame will add twice the board width in both directions...but it may not be EXACTLY 2.5" per board...there can be variation in that dimension, as lumber isn't perfect.

So, you just focus on getting the short sides to match your desired screen dimension...that's the bottom line. (Oh, and that I would strongly consider just measuring the dimensions of a projected image on the wall...then you're 100% sure that the frame you're building is a perfect match for the projector/screen combination.)

Good luck!
My neurosis has flared up again. I measured the projected image at a width of 110.5". I found the following formula on AVS and when I work out the numbers they are slightly off from yours. What is the formula you used for the above measurements?

Here's the formula from AVS --

h=height, w=width, d=diagonal

h = d / 2.04
w = 1.78 x d / 2.04

So using my very limited and rusty algebra skills and the width formula shown above I worked back to calculate the diagonoal at 126.64" based on my measured image width of 110.5".

Then using the height formula above I get 62.07" which is VERY close to your first calculation (below) but the widths seem more off (110.5 vs. 110.22), or are they?

[PIE]62.00" x 110.22" (about 110 1/4), gives a screen diagonal of 126.46"[/PIE]

I know we are splitting hairs here and I will ultimately be able to zoom to fill the whole screen so this is just thinking things through out loud as much as anything but if you have any last minute input I'd love to hear it. Making the cuts tonight after work.
12th Man is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
painted , screen , shackster

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now




PLEASE COMPLETE ALL REQUIRED FIELDS BELOW... THANKS!

REQUIRED FIELDS ON THIS PAGE
YOU MUST COMPLETE ALL OF THESE

Username
Password
Confirm Password
Email Address
Confirm Email Address
Random Question
Random Question #2




User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
PLEASE READ BELOW PRIOR TO ENTERING AN EMAIL ADDRESS!

ATTENTION!

YOU MUST ACTIVATE YOUR ACCOUNT!

Activation requires you reply to an email we will send you after you register... if you do not reply to this email, you will not be able to view certain areas of the forum or certain images... nor will you be able download software.

AN INVALID EMAIL ADDRESS WILL CAUSE YOUR ACCOUNT TO BE DELETED!

See our banned email list here: Banned Email List

We DO NOT respond to spamcop, boxtrapper and spamblocker emails... please add @hometheatershack DOT com to your whitelist prior to registering or you will get nowhere on your registration.


Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML is not allowed!
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 


For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome