Help with hot-spotting... - Page 2 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #11 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Steve
 
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

ALMFamily -- I do not think ROLLING on the thinned paint was the issue; there was no more hot-spotting when I rolled on that last coat of thinned paint, vs. the hot-spotting I was getting from the prior layer of thinned paint that was sprayed on. Both layers were giving roughly equivalent amounts of hot spotting.

SO, if thinning is something that will cause a lower-sheen paint to have a bit more sheen, it doesn't seem to me from my experience that the method of application -- rolling OR spraying that thinned paint -- makes any difference. BOTH the rolled layer of thinned paint AND the sprayed layer of thinned paint had hot-spotting.

Further, the thinning, of course, may have NOTHING to do with it; it may simply be that ProClassic satin, for my room, projector, projection distance, and screen size, is simply a finish with too much sheen. But, I'd be curious to know if rolled-on, UN-THINNED ProClassic (satin) would have caused hot spotting, given that it's now clear that the rolled-on, un-thinned Dimension (matte) does NOT...

Steve

Last edited by sgoss66; 11-06-12 at 01:47 PM.
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post #12 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 12:16 PM
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Great explanation - thank you.


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post #13 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Glad to help! Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.

Steve
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post #14 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 03:06 PM
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

When I made up my test panel of ProClassic satin I thinned the paint about 25% with distilled water. No hot spotting occurred. I used an air compressor powered HVLP with 1.4mm nozzle.

If I understand the way ProClassic is supposed to work the thicker the coat of paint is (without running or sagging of course) the better it will flatten out. This means that you well could get a smoother finish by rolling instead of spraying, but I doubt the difference would be all that visible to the human eye.
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post #15 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Thanks Don.

So, it sounds like this is at least some evidence that thinning may not increase the sheen of the paint...

Hmm...

Steve
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post #16 of 35 Old 11-07-12, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

SUCCESS!!!

First off, Don, I can now confirm that Duration does not roll on quite as nicely as the ProClassic. It's not BAD, but not quite as easy to get a nice even coat. Last night, I thinned a bit of it down, and rolled it on, and still was not happy with my finish. I still had enough "flaws" on the screen, roller marks and such, that I was not happy. So, I had to do yet ANOTHER coat, which turned out to be probably about the tenth coat of paint/primer on this screen! On this coat, though, I took something you said in your last post -- that ProClassic is supposed to flatten out better when applying a thicker coat of paint. I'm happy to say that with the Duration, that also did the trick. I applied a heavier coat of paint, and was SUPER careful with my application, and it flattened out nicely -- FINALLY my screen is "acceptably perfect." No flaws visible. THANKS for your mention of a "heavier coat of paint" in your post. That definitely did the trick for me, with the Duration paint.

Then, this morning, my new projector came. As I mentioned, they upgraded me from the Mitsubishi HC3800 to an HC4000 (they had no more stock of the 3800s left -- so I got lucky!) The moment I turned the new one on, WOW! Night and day difference, no pun intended. The brightness of this PJ was AMAZING. I have not yet even run it in "standard" lamp mode; I'm in low lamp Cinema mode, and it is SUPERB. VERY bright, VERY sharp, beautiful colors, and I haven't even run the calibration on this one yet. I cannot BELIEVE the difference in brightness. And the best news of all -- even this super-bright projector is giving me NO HOT-SPOTTING on my screen. FINALLY, I have the picture I'd been hoping to have -- now that I've ironed out all my screen issues and projector issues. THANKS AGAIN all, for all the help getting me to this point!

Steve
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post #17 of 35 Old 11-07-12, 09:06 PM
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Glad we could be of assistance Steve. That's what this forum is all about, helping folks get the best image they can with what they have.

Glad you had a good resolution to your PJ problems! It sounds like your HC3800 had some real imaging issues.
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post #18 of 35 Old 11-07-12, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Yep, it had some "imaging issues," all right! WOW.

Thanks,

Steve
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post #19 of 35 Old 11-07-12, 10:02 PM
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Great to hear Steve! And, congrats on the projector upgrade!


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post #20 of 35 Old 11-08-12, 01:05 AM
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Quote:
sgoss66 wrote: View Post
VERY bright, VERY sharp, beautiful colors, and I haven't even run the calibration on this one yet.
Steve, it's good to hear that everything turned out well. Enjoy your new ''toy''!!!

It's pointless to run the calibration disc and do some adjustments in the first 50 hours (except brightness and contrast levels of course...) due to lamp's unstable temperature behaviour. After 50 or 60 hours, you 're good to go calibrating!!!
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