Help with hot-spotting... - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #1 of 35 Old 11-04-12, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Steve
 
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Help with hot-spotting...

Hi all...

I have hot-spotting issues on my newly-painted screen (Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Interior Acrylic Latex, Satin sheen, tinted SW6260 (Unique Gray)).

Apparently, the sheen of the Satin ProClassic paint is too much for my projector. What is a good solution to this issue? Is there a "top coat" of some kind that can be applied to cut down the glare, or do I need to find a good, neutral gray equivalent to "Unique Gray," but in a base that has flat sheen?

Thanks,

Steve

Last edited by sgoss66; 11-05-12 at 08:29 AM.
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post #2 of 35 Old 11-05-12, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Gotcha, Mechman. Don is suggesting Sherwin-Williams "Duration" paint, in "SW6260 Unique Gray". I'll give that a shot; do you know if Unique Gray mixed in that paint base will be similarly neutral, as compared to the "Unique Gray" in the ProClassic paint?

Steve
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post #3 of 35 Old 11-05-12, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

OK, sounds good...I'll pick up a quart of the "Duration" paint. I'll ask you what I asked Don -- you both said "one step down" in sheen, so that would be going down from satin, in the ProClassic, to a matte in the Duration. You both think that matte will eliminate the hot-spotting, without me having to drop all the way down to a flat base?

Steve
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post #4 of 35 Old 11-05-12, 12:03 PM
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Quote:
sgoss66 wrote: View Post
OK, sounds good...I'll pick up a quart of the "Duration" paint. I'll ask you what I asked Don -- you both said "one step down" in sheen, so that would be going down from satin, in the ProClassic, to a matte in the Duration. You both think that matte will eliminate the hot-spotting, without me having to drop all the way down to a flat base?

Steve
No matte finish paint should hot spot, but then again we've never heard of the SW satin finish causing hot spotting in an N8 shade of gray or lighter.
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post #5 of 35 Old 11-05-12, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Sounds good, Don, on the matte finish. I just ordered a quart of it in Unique Gray, from SW. I'll pick it up on the way home. I guess with my projector relatively close to the screen (13'), and with a relatively small screen (92"), there are just too many lumens hitting the screen -- thus causing my hot-spotting when, in most cases, there would be none.

Meanwhile, I spoke with Mitsubishi this morning, and they are sending me a new unit, overnight shipping. They are including a return label in the box, to send mine back in -- so you can't beat that, in terms of customer service. Hopefully, now, I'll be able to adjust/calibrate this new projector, and end up with a nice bright image. That, combined with the lower-sheen paint on the screen, and I should be in business!! PERFECT! I'll report back when I get the screen re-painted, and the new projector up and running...

Thanks guys...

Steve
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post #6 of 35 Old 11-05-12, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

OK -- an update. One coat of SW "Duration" in matte finish, Unique Gray tint, and a quick test when the paint was barely dry showed NO HOT SPOTTING! Now, it's a matter of waiting on the new projector (latest news is I'm being "upgraded" to an HC4000, which should be here in a couple of days). I look forward to having this last piece of the puzzle in place, so I can calibrate and enjoy!

Thanks again for the help; the matte finish paint seems to do the trick -- at least with the HC3800 in "Cinema" mode...

Steve
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post #7 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 09:03 AM
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Great to hear Steve - really makes you wonder about that previous can of paint.......


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post #8 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 09:14 AM
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

Steve, did you notice any difference rolling the Duration compared to rolling the ProClassic?
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post #9 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

ALMFamily --

It certainly does make one wonder. The only other thing I can say is, I DID thin down the ProClassic with water (for my HVLP sprayer), so I'm not sure if that could have resulted in a "glossier" finish than non-thinned ProClassic (I know Sherwin-Williams recommends NOT thinning their paints...)

Don --

YES, I did notice a difference...I didn't think it rolled on quite as evenly or smoothly as the ProClassic, BUT...there's a caveat. I did not thin the Duration paint. I had thinned my entire quart of ProClassic (thinking I'd be spraying the whole time, and not rolling), so when I decided to roll on that "top coat," it was using the left-over paint that had been thinned down to HVLP consistency. Having said that, that thinned-down ProClassic rolled on nice and smooth, and was easy to get consistent coverage with no roller marks, and when it dried, it laid down a nice, even, smooth, texture-free coat.

Now, when I painted on the Duration last night, I didn't thin it first. Having said that, when painting on that coat of Duration it was harder to get nice, consistent coverage, with no roller marks, etc. I had to work much harder to eliminate roller marks and keep it texture free. BUT -- I was obviously not comparing "apples to apples" given that it was not thinned.

I will probably paint on one more coat of the Duration, as -- despite my efforts -- there are just a few very minor imperfections, reflecting the fact that it was indeed a bit more difficult to apply, and apparently didn't "lay down" quite as well after application thus leaving a few spots of very minor "texturing." If and when I do apply this one final coat, I will thin it first. THEN, I'll have a better "apples to apples" comparison to share regarding rolling on the two products.

Thanks,

Steve
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post #10 of 35 Old 11-06-12, 11:56 AM
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Re: Help with hot-spotting...

I noticed the same thing when rolling on the Kilz primer - I did not thin it at all and I had to go over it several times to remove the texture.

As I have no experience in this arena, could it be that rolling on the thinned paint made the layer contain more water thus causing the hot spotting issues?


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