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-   -   How best to mount a velvet frame for screen painted on wall? (https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-screens/28382-how-best-mount-velvet-frame-screen-painted-wall.html)

1canuck2 04-25-10 09:49 PM

How best to mount a velvet frame for screen painted on wall?
 

So, having lived with my Elektra N8 screen for a few months, its finally time to frame it.

The screen is ~110"W x 62"H. I just ordered some Royalty 3 Velvet in black from JoAnn's using a 50% off coupon to force me to get started on the frame.

I am looking for advice on how to best mount it flush to the wall.

I plan on doing a 2-3" wide border using trim pieces from Home Depot. I haven't gone shopping yet to see what's available, but the biggest concern is how to cleanly mount it to the wall without it sitting off from the wall.

I'd prefer not to screw or nail directly through the frame to the wall as I am concerned about hiding the screw/nail heads and/or damaging the velvet during the mounting process.

I considered a french cleat but a traditional one would push the frame off of the wall.

The best thing I have found so far is this:
http://govart.com/hardware_cleat_A.html

3 or 4 of the 12" or 18" ones along the top and another 3 or 4 along the bottom should do the trick. The sides would be supported by the top and bottom (and metal corner brackets will tie the whole frame together).

It says the wall standoff is 3/16", so in principal if I had wood that was at least 3/4" thick and 3" wide, I could rabbit out 3/16" x 2" channel from the back of it and recess the cleats making it sit flush.

The frame will be ~116" wide but fairly light. I'd think four cleats evenly spaced along each horizontal piece would hold it without warping, wouldn't you? Put two close to either end and space the other two evenly in between.

Is this a good plan? Any other ideas? The frame itself should end up fairly light so the mounting system will not have to bear a lot of weight, I am just concerned with the frame bowing over time so will need to make sure it supported in if places along the horizontal lengths.

Any ideas welcome!

1canuck2 04-26-10 12:24 PM

Re: How best to mount a velvet frame for screen painted on wall?
 

I read a little about it but have never seen it in person.

I was mostly turned off by wbasset's statement in the Screen 101 thread):
"Flok- Works, but you’re paying more for the name than anything at $49.00 for a 2”x25 yard roll." (Although I just saw it on Amazon from Parts Express for $32).

Of course, I just spent $30 on the velvet and have to buy wood, etc.

So people just sit it flat against the wall? I suppose it will work, but not quite the look I was going for as I like the concept of the frame having some dimension to it. I can be convinced otherwise if people say its good...

Anyone have good pics of flock-based frames?

Trees415 06-16-10 01:32 AM

Re: How best to mount a velvet frame for screen painted on wall?
 

I wouldn't suggest flock tape, I saw a home theater that used flock and it doesn't look very professional. Nothing beats velvet or velour screen bordering, given the best looking home-made screens I've personally seen all had velvet bordering. I'm actually in a similar position as you, as I am in the process of creating a velvet border around my 110" BOC screen. Depending on how much $$ you can spend and how much work you want to do, there are a number of ways to go about it. The best case scenario is, as you mentioned, wrapping the cloth around lumber and mounting it to the wall. However, using lumber can get to be pretty expensive depending on how wide of a border you want.
For my HT, I wanted my bordering to be 6" wide on the sides, and 14" on the top and bottom (runners). Since 14" wide lumber boards are not cheap, I decided to go with a rigid, styrafoam-like sheathing board called Foamular, which is board that is used for insulation. I picked up a 4' x 8' board that was 1 in. thick for about $10 at home depot. This is optimal for me because it is relatively cheap, and the material is very light weight. I then cut it into 4 pieces, stapled the velvet to the board, and am currently in the process of mounting it to the wall around the frame that my screen is attached to. I am probably going to use keyhole brackets or French cleats similar to what you posted to mount it to the wall. So far I haven't hit any major issues with the foamular boards, but I haven't finished yet. I've been taking pictures along the way, so I'll post them up when I'm finished in the next couple days.
Just an option to think about. If you are able to spend the money though, then you should probably go with lumber boards, or maybe MDF or something like that. Hope this helps.

1canuck2 06-16-10 09:00 AM

Re: How best to mount a velvet frame for screen painted on wall?
 

Hey Trees, thanks for the input. I'll go look at that foamular stuff, lightweight would be good.

I already have the velvet, so the flock idea is out of the question anyway, I am just looking for the best mounting method and framing material.

I am looking for a 2-3" border. I was looking at trim pieces at HD but am concerned that they are too thin and flexible and will end up sagging. Pricing-wise they are a good option and you can get them in longer pieces. The 110" width of my screen is a bit of a pain as many good solutions are only 8' wide. Do you know if foamular comes in 10' lengths?

Does the foamular seem rigid enough that you think the staples will hold? What about the keyhole brackets? Foamy stuff would be good from a light and rigid-enough perspective, I'd just be scared of it holding up over time with staples and such. But I have not seen the foamular you are talking about.

Edit: I just googled and realized its the rigid pink insulation. I am no expert and have not used it myself, but I'd be afraid the staples won;t hold and the keyholes or cleats wouldn't either. Let me know how it goes.

Trees415 06-16-10 11:13 PM

Re: How best to mount a velvet frame for screen painted on wall?
 

Quote:

1canuck2 wrote: (Post 270583)
I am looking for a 2-3" border. I was looking at trim pieces at HD but am concerned that they are too thin and flexible and will end up sagging. Pricing-wise they are a good option and you can get them in longer pieces. The 110" width of my screen is a bit of a pain as many good solutions are only 8' wide. Do you know if foamular comes in 10' lengths?

Does the foamular seem rigid enough that you think the staples will hold? What about the keyhole brackets? Foamy stuff would be good from a light and rigid-enough perspective, I'd just be scared of it holding up over time with staples and such. But I have not seen the foamular you are talking about.

Edit: I just googled and realized its the rigid pink insulation. I am no expert and have not used it myself, but I'd be afraid the staples won;t hold and the keyholes or cleats wouldn't either. Let me know how it goes.

The Foamular Boards I'm using hold staples better then I had thought, but I put a piece of tape over the staples just to be safe. Then I superglued 2-3 keyhole brackets to the board. it has worked well so far for me. I know that some people have had success using aluminum J-channels to hold the boards in place, but I find they mainly more useful for attaching masking boards to a screen frame.
But let me re-emphasize that this is a poor man's option for obtaining wider borders. If you choose to go with bordering < 6" wide, I'd suggest that you use lumber boards without question. But if you want bordering that is 6" wide or more, then rigid foam sheathing will be a much more economical approach.
Just make sure that 3" is appropriate for your set-up. I would suggest you make your bordering wider then 3" if the walls and ceiling in your HT are painted a lighter, more reflective color. However, 3" bordering is fine for darker walls and ceilings.Basically, wider bordering will be more effective in capturing stray light, but it is only necessary if the rest of the wall around your ceiling reflects a lot of light.
So yeah, like I said before, lumber is your best bet, especially under 5". Just make sure to get appropriately sized lumber boards that are fairly flat, then miter each end at a 45 degree angle so that all four boards attach cleanly. If you have anymore questions just post it up, and I'm sure someone who actually knows what they are talking about will answer instead of me.:D good luck.

Edit: I want to mention one more thing about the foamular boards. Cutting it into 4 boards was a pain in the . I spent close to an hour cutting the foamular using a yard stick and a very sharp utility knife that is kind of like a box cutter. Despite making very slow, precise cuts, none of the cuts were perfectly straight. Luckily when I wrapped the boards in velvet, it was difficult to notice. While this will probably make perfectionists shy away from using rigid foam, if you are not as concerned with slight imperfections then it would be a viable option.

1canuck2 06-17-10 08:01 PM

Re: How best to mount a velvet frame for screen painted on wall?
 

Thanks for the info Trees...
My screen wall is a deep chocolate brown colour, so things are good there. I mostly want to frame it in velvet for:
1. The look (mostly a "when the lights are on" look)
2. To give the projected image a "clean" edge since I am projecting against a flat wall.

My bigger issue is that my ceiling is white and I get a reasonable amount of reflections from it back on the screen but I have been unable to come up with a fix for that that would work and look good. I do not want to paint my entire ceiling, in fact I cannot paint the ceiling at all (its california knockdown...) Hmm, if there was something as light as foamular that was paintable, I could conceivably mount it to the ceiling against the screen wall for a few feet, but that's a different thread...


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