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-   -   Cream&Sugar™ Ultra (https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-screens/44654-cream-sugar-ultra.html)

Harpmaker 05-16-11 11:28 PM

Re: Cream&Sugar™ Ultra
 

Quote:

kadijk wrote: (Post 437121)
Harp, a quick question. We have discussed this on the development thread already but I was wondering if you have gotten around to formulating the C&S Ultra with paint one could get at Home Depot.

I'm quite certain C&S™ Ultra can be made with Behr #1850 paint (ultra white flat latex enamel) instead of the Valspar Ultra Premium white flat latex enamel, but the silver paint MUST be Liquitex BASICS Silver (at least at this time). Home Depot seems to be stopping selling metallic paints; first Behr stopped making their metallics and then HD stopped selling the Ralph Lauren metallics. I know it's an inconvenience ordering the Liquitex paint, but the only other choice is paying big bucks to get them from a local store that sells artist paints (A. C. Moore, Michael's etc.). If you can assemble the needed paints over time, you can get 40% to 50% off retail price by using weekly coupons at the above mentioned stores (they will accept each others sale coupons).

Quote:

My situation is almost identical to Centurian's and so your comment about the valspar paint maybe hotspotting got me thinking. Or is that only in regards to the darker mix( Electra)?
It's only when making a darker mix by adding the N6 paint. The way things stand C&S™ Ultra is made using the regular BASICS Silver paint since the BASICS MATT paints are not sold in the large craft/artist supply stores any more (I don't know why). All the BASICS paints are of a satin finish (some, like the Titanium White are even glossier) so C&S™ Ultra is already 50% satin and 50% flat white enamel so any additional satin paint may push the mix into hot spotting. Another contributing factor is that C&S™ Ultra only makes 32 oz. of paint before water is added while the older C&S™ mixes made 48 oz. The volume discrepancy is really less than that because the BASICS paint is VERY thick, but I hope you get my drift. That is why I'm only suggesting the Behr N6 paint (it's flat) be used to make Elektra™ with C&S™ Ultra as the base paint.

We will be introducing two new mixes later this year, the first is Cream&Sugar™ International and the other will be called Aurora™ International. These mixes will be made from 100% Liquitex BASICS or BASICS MATT paints. This is being done so that these mixes can be made in any country in the world. Aurora™ will basically be the same thing as Elektra™ only it will use a N5 paint as a shade-adjuster since that is the only neutral gray Liquitex sells.

kadijk 05-16-11 11:50 PM

Thanks. I have the liquitex basics already so it's the base I need to acquire with no lowes nearby. Your work and testing are MUCH appreciated.

Harpmaker 05-17-11 10:54 AM

Re: Cream&Sugar™ Ultra
 

Quote:

kadijk wrote: (Post 437153)
Thanks. I have the liquitex basics already so it's the base I need to acquire with no lowes nearby. Your work and testing are MUCH appreciated.

Thank you.

In all of our testing Valspar Ultra Premium enamel and Behr #1850 have performed in a very similar manner and one could be exchanged for the other. If you have to you could probably use the newer Behr #1750 (their ULTRA paint), but do that only if absolutely necessary. I have read that some have had problems with roller marks with #1850, but all that means is that they haven't thinned it enough with water before rolling (it doesn't take much).

kadijk 05-18-11 09:56 AM

I guess the only problem with using the Behr product is knowing the tint formula that HD would use to match the Lowes coloring.

Harpmaker 05-18-11 11:45 AM

Re: Cream&Sugar™ Ultra
 

Quote:

kadijk wrote: (Post 437404)
I guess the only problem with using the Behr product is knowing the tint formula that HD would use to match the Lowes coloring.

With any luck I'll be checking this out today. :T

Centurion 05-19-11 09:10 AM

Re: Cream&Sugar™ Ultra
 

Harp,
I really appreciate your insight and knowledge on this. I think i will go the route of using C&S with maybe a pinch (1 - 1.5oz) of N6 ? Interesting recommendation on the PJ as I was/am strongly considering the Epson 8700UB or 9700UB as well. Thanks again.

Harpmaker 05-19-11 12:12 PM

Re: Cream&Sugar™ Ultra
 

Quote:

Centurion wrote: (Post 437628)
Harp,
I really appreciate your insight and knowledge on this. I think i will go the route of using C&S with maybe a pinch (1 - 1.5oz) of N6 ? Interesting recommendation on the PJ as I was/am strongly considering the Epson 8700UB or 9700UB as well. Thanks again.

Adding that small an amount of N6 paint to C&S™ Ultra would only darken the mix by the slightest amount, but it wouldn't hurt anything either.

I am far from an expert on projectors, for that info check out our PJ forum here at HTS. All of the PJ's you are contemplating are way above my pay-grade - all I know about them is what I read; but if you are serious about good image contrast and black levels get a PJ that has them "out of the box" and don't try to compensate for their lack with a screen.

Centurion 05-19-11 01:46 PM

Re: Cream&Sugar™ Ultra
 

Excellent recommendation. So now I have to ask what projector are you running?

Harpmaker 05-19-11 05:45 PM

Re: Cream&Sugar™ Ultra
 

Quote:

Centurion wrote: (Post 437717)
Excellent recommendation. So now I have to ask what projector are you running?

I'm half embarrassed to tell you. :blush: Like a lot of people I made the mistake of getting a cheap PJ that was on sale (I think I paid something like $300, but it may have been $400) without really knowing anything about projectors. I got a Viewsonic PJ503D (which I don't recommend to anyone for any purpose). It's an 800x600 PJ, but that doesn't really bother me since I'm still using standard DVD's; but it's a DLP PJ that only has something like 2 or 3 segments on the color-wheel which causes me a HUGE problem with Rainbow Effect. It is especially bad when watching a Black&White movie since the colors you see out of the corner of your eyes are easily seen against the B&W image on the screen. The RBE is so bad with this PJ I even was able to take a photo of it! The area of the image where I am moving my finger up and down in is white (meaning it's getting equal amounts of red, green and blue light) the area of the image hitting my hand is blue.

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/4329/pict1330om0.jpg

abby3347 06-05-11 07:56 PM

Re: Cream&Sugar™ Ultra
 

Harp,

I am most impressed with your knowledge and experience with high performing DIY screens for a reasonable price.

Presently, I am in the final stages of finishing a new summer home with a theater room that will have high ambient light during the daytime, so we plan to use the PJ only at night and a smaller flat screen display positioned below during the daylight hours. There are some parameters of the room layout and decor that I will not be able to change, so I am seeking advice to help make sure I achieve the best outcome in terms of the screen performance. The Projector is a Panasonic PT-AE4000U that will need to be ceiling mounted at about 11' (as close as possible) from the 107" diagonal screen painted on smooth drywall, the back of the fire place. Ceiling is light beige and walls are medium beige in eggshell latex. I can control lighting to a very low level of light. There can be a small amount of indirect moonlight coming from the great room behind the fireplace wall reflecting off walls in the theater room. This indirect light is coming from behind and to the sides of the screen which remains very dark. I believe the light from the screen image reflecting off the theater room walls and ceiling will be a bigger factor.

Do you think the C&S Ultra will be a good selection for this PJ and the environment described above?

I tried my old Sharp XV- Z90U in this room on the primed wall and it was plenty bright, a little reflection off the ceiling that I may need to work on. I made a 92" dia. portable screen for this projector with a Behr formula a few years ago that we still enjoy and I am looking forward to high performance with the new screen and PJ.

Thanks,

Dave


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