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sgoss66 11-04-12 08:00 PM

Help with hot-spotting...
 

Hi all...

I have hot-spotting issues on my newly-painted screen (Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Interior Acrylic Latex, Satin sheen, tinted SW6260 (Unique Gray)).

Apparently, the sheen of the Satin ProClassic paint is too much for my projector. What is a good solution to this issue? Is there a "top coat" of some kind that can be applied to cut down the glare, or do I need to find a good, neutral gray equivalent to "Unique Gray," but in a base that has flat sheen?

Thanks,

Steve

sgoss66 11-05-12 08:30 AM

Re: Help with hot-spotting...
 

Gotcha, Mechman. Don is suggesting Sherwin-Williams "Duration" paint, in "SW6260 Unique Gray". I'll give that a shot; do you know if Unique Gray mixed in that paint base will be similarly neutral, as compared to the "Unique Gray" in the ProClassic paint?

Steve

sgoss66 11-05-12 10:37 AM

Re: Help with hot-spotting...
 

OK, sounds good...I'll pick up a quart of the "Duration" paint. I'll ask you what I asked Don -- you both said "one step down" in sheen, so that would be going down from satin, in the ProClassic, to a matte in the Duration. You both think that matte will eliminate the hot-spotting, without me having to drop all the way down to a flat base?

Steve

Harpmaker 11-05-12 12:03 PM

Re: Help with hot-spotting...
 

Quote:

sgoss66 wrote: (Post 561687)
OK, sounds good...I'll pick up a quart of the "Duration" paint. I'll ask you what I asked Don -- you both said "one step down" in sheen, so that would be going down from satin, in the ProClassic, to a matte in the Duration. You both think that matte will eliminate the hot-spotting, without me having to drop all the way down to a flat base?

Steve

No matte finish paint should hot spot, but then again we've never heard of the SW satin finish causing hot spotting in an N8 shade of gray or lighter.

sgoss66 11-05-12 12:18 PM

Re: Help with hot-spotting...
 

Sounds good, Don, on the matte finish. I just ordered a quart of it in Unique Gray, from SW. I'll pick it up on the way home. I guess with my projector relatively close to the screen (13'), and with a relatively small screen (92"), there are just too many lumens hitting the screen -- thus causing my hot-spotting when, in most cases, there would be none. :huh:

Meanwhile, I spoke with Mitsubishi this morning, and they are sending me a new unit, overnight shipping. They are including a return label in the box, to send mine back in -- so you can't beat that, in terms of customer service. Hopefully, now, I'll be able to adjust/calibrate this new projector, and end up with a nice bright image. That, combined with the lower-sheen paint on the screen, and I should be in business!! PERFECT! I'll report back when I get the screen re-painted, and the new projector up and running...

Thanks guys...

Steve

sgoss66 11-05-12 08:44 PM

Re: Help with hot-spotting...
 

OK -- an update. One coat of SW "Duration" in matte finish, Unique Gray tint, and a quick test when the paint was barely dry showed NO HOT SPOTTING! Now, it's a matter of waiting on the new projector (latest news is I'm being "upgraded" to an HC4000, which should be here in a couple of days). I look forward to having this last piece of the puzzle in place, so I can calibrate and enjoy!

Thanks again for the help; the matte finish paint seems to do the trick -- at least with the HC3800 in "Cinema" mode...

Steve

ALMFamily 11-06-12 09:03 AM

Re: Help with hot-spotting...
 

Great to hear Steve - really makes you wonder about that previous can of paint.......

Harpmaker 11-06-12 09:14 AM

Re: Help with hot-spotting...
 

Steve, did you notice any difference rolling the Duration compared to rolling the ProClassic?


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