Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build - Page 3 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #21 of 35 Old 05-01-14, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

As promised - unboxing photos.
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post #22 of 35 Old 05-03-14, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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First Cuts

Got the parts cut to basic sizes today. Had Home Depot cut the big sheet down to manageable sized pieces taking care to keep the factory edges in usable positions for the following cuts. I marked all the factory edges with an "E".



Before I started I checked the alignment of the saw. I use a Mag DRO Miter Slot BAse Table Saw alignment tool. It holds the shaft of standard calipers and is more than solid enough for wood working. I got the blade aligned to .0035" error front to back at full extention.



While the blade was up I checked it for square.



Then I used the Mag Dro setup again to check the rip fence. It was out .011", a little more than I'd like but usable. (I like the outfeed end to be a little open anyway, but ~.003 or .004 is enough to help prevent binding and burning.)



Then it was time to do rough rip cuts to get the 3 sheet sections from HD down to the approximate sizes for the all the parts. Take care when you make these types of preliminary cuts. They don't need to be real accurate in width, over wide by some margin is fine. What you need is a STRAIGHT cut. The edges you make here will be the edges you use later. Focus on the interface between the work piece and the fence. Don't ignore the blade. When you ignore blades they tend get their feelings hurt and are more likely to bite fingers and other fleshy things, but the most important thing is the work against the fence. Maintain that and good down force and what's happening at the blade will work out right. Focusing on the cut is a rookie mistake that makes for un-parallel cuts.



From there it was time to rip to final width. Measure twice from the fence to edge of the carbide tooth on the blade. Then cut all of the identical width pieces in a batch. Move from group to group till all the widths are complete.

When all the ripping was done I mounted the crosscut sled and got a block of wood and a clamp for a stop block. For each length I set the piece in place, line up a cut mark to the saw tooth, then set the stop block. Re-check the length to the cut mark and make the cut. Then use the stop block to make the remaining cuts for identical pieces. Stop blocks are best used on the kept end as opposed to the off cut. This allows you to adjust for the final length (cut long then small corrections till right). If the stop block is on the off cut (sometimes it's unavoidable) you need to measure for each cut to prevent errors that rise from inconsistent lengths of the raw pieces.



When I was done I checked the widths and the lengths of the sides and the backs for consistency.



The sled/stop block setup makes for quick work on things like brace pieces.



All done with the sizing cuts.



Tomorrow I'll get the detail cuts marked off and completed.

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post #23 of 35 Old 05-04-14, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

Made some progress today. Back cuts on the sides and all the rabbets and dadoes. I had to quit early to attend a church function I had forgoten about. I have pics I'll try to post tomorrow.

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post #24 of 35 Old 05-05-14, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

Creating the back cut for the front panel.

I used a strip of " MDF to measure for the notch cut in the sides that will receive the front panel.



Then thought some more and used the piece of " to act as a spacer for setting a straight edge guide, in this case my 4' level.



It made for a nice straight cut right where it needed to be.

I could have done the same for the other pieces but instead I used the first piece as a pattern and did the rest with my plunge router and a flush trim bit. This insured a perfect match with the exception of the rounding on the inside corner which was cleaned up with a sharp chisel.



Four sides ready to receive rabbets and dadoes. (In retrospect I should have cut the rabbets and dadoes first as cutting the notches made for some difficulty in registering the pieces against the fence of the sled)



One might think that the dust that resulted would be a problem. That dust and a little wood glue will make a perfect filler later. (Yes, I'm cheap) The first bag shot was from just the first routed piece. I think that I'll have enough.




One more note. A few years back I bought a cheap ($100) wood working bench from Ace Hardware. It's a 5' light weight toy of a thing that has non-standard, ⅝" dog holes, and pathetic little wood dogs that barely get the job done with lame front and end vises. I've never regretted the purchase. Sure, I'd like to have a really nice solid maple 7 footer with nicer vises and standard dog hole sizes but this thing has been just what I needed for jobs like this one.



Next up - Rabbets & Dadoes

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post #25 of 35 Old 05-05-14, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

Long rabbets on the rip fence.

The long rabbets are done with a sacrificial fence (3/4 ply clamped to the table saw fence - not shown) and and dado stack set up for an over sized width. In this case all 6 ⅛" cutters and chippers plus the 3/32" chipper.



You should always engage ALL the threads of the arbor nut.



The stack is lowered fully into the saw, the sacrificial fence is then positioned to overlap the stack by about ⅜". The blade is then started and slowly raised till the proper cut depth is reached. Test it on a piece of scrap.



Once you have the depth correct check the width.



Make incremental corrections till the width is correct. I'm calling this good.



Proper prep makes for quick work on the rabbets. Always use push blocks even when the blade doesn't come through the top of the work piece. (not shown - the rabbets on the side pieces)


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Last edited by GCG; 05-06-14 at 10:18 PM. Reason: correction
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post #26 of 35 Old 05-05-14, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

End rabbets & dadoes.

For end rabbets and dadoes going over wide isn't an option. Setup will determine if you have a good fit or if the dado/rabbet is to loose or too tight. Too loose and you lose the alignment qualities you're looking for. Too tight and rabbets have visible overlap and dadoes either won't assemble at all or may even split the material at the joint.

You need to assemble the dado stack first using the fractional ID's of the blades and chippers, test for fit on scrap from project stock and make adjustments, usually with the supplied shims. I started with the 6 ⅛" blades/chippers and needed to make 3 adjustments before I was happy. I consider a good joint to be a good friction fit that can be disassembled by hand with light effort. If inverted the captured piece should remain in the dado.



Setting up for the end rabbet cut is a simple matter. Run the sled to place the fence over the blade and attach a stop block on the far side that just kisses the blade teeth. This will achieve the desired cut virtually every time.



For the dado lining up all the slots will be critical during assembly so the position needs to be referenced to a common edge. In this case the front doesn't go all the way to the top so the bottom was the only choice. A strategically placed stop block works all around.



One last detail for the cuts. Check the length of the brace pieces. They need to be the same length as the space between the long rabbets on the fronts and backs.



That'll work.

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post #27 of 35 Old 05-05-14, 03:27 PM
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

Quote:
GCG wrote: View Post
Somewhat off topic.
I've been putting off building a crosscut sled for my table saw and this is a perfect reason to go ahead with it. If anyone is interested in it, sing out, and I'll include it in this thread.
Otherwise i'll keep it to myself.
Hi.
Saw your post on the Routerforum. If you include something about the sled, I'd be interested.
Mark
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I bought an Infinity ServoStatic-I set in the 70's.
The owners at the then startup company, were true innovators.
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post #28 of 35 Old 05-05-14, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

Links to everything are in the first post. I did three construction posts on the sled.

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post #29 of 35 Old 05-08-14, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

Not a lot of progress during the week. Work gets in the way. I manage to do a little prep and research.

I'm going to use a template to mark the baffle positions for the drivers and the attachment points for the grill. This way the grills have the best chance of being interchangeable. The centers of the drivers and the attachment points for the baffle I'll drill with the smallest brad point I have and I'll use it as a transfer punch. The current plan is to use rare earth magnets to hold the grills in place.



I checked the crossovers against the middle partition and as I had guessed both would not fit.



I'll mount the tweeter xover on the side near the tweeter. This has the bonus of allowing the inductor to be mounted so that the axis is at right angles to the other two. I was already planning to attach them both with screws (double sided tape was applied by Madisound - nice touch). I want to be able to remove the xovers in the event we don't sell and stay here. If so I'll need to build a stand mount/bookshelf version of the enclosure to fit the space.

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Last edited by GCG; 05-12-14 at 10:34 AM.
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post #30 of 35 Old 05-12-14, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Zaph Audio ZA5.3t (Madisound) Build

Weekend progress:

First up - the terminal cup. The cup has a nice rounded edge profile that would look better if surface mounted so I ignored the recess and setup for a simple through cut. All I needed was a pattern and a flush trim bit for the router.

Making the pattern was easy enough - a few 1" strips of " MDF taped together around the body of the cup.



Then attach the pattern to the back. I made center line marks on both the location on the back piece and the pattern and used them for alignment. Attach with brad nails or double sided tape (if tape is used, watch the amount of lateral force applied during routing as the pattern could shift.) Once the pattern is in place use it to locate a hole large enough for a jigsaw blade in each corner and cut the bulk of the waste out with the jigsaw. Leave a little waste to be removed by the router.



When matching the radius of a part to a bit always use a bit with an equal or, in in this cas, lesser radius. just be sure if using a lesser the tighter corner will be covered and unseen. Make certain there is sufficient clearance below the work by raising the piece on spacers (in this case some " scrap). Clamp the work down.
Set the depth of the bit to allow the cutter to just extend past the bottom edge of the work piece and insure the bearing will make good contact to the pattern. Move clockwise around the hole keeping the bearing against pattern.



When done the pattern is removed. The brads can be pulled but will require filler so I opted to use a fiber reinforced cutoff wheel with my Dremel. Personal note: I use only the fiber wheel. The cheap carbon wheels shatter too easily. Since the brads were a little long I had some excess on the back side before I started the cut. The Dremel took care of that, too.



Nice fit.



Port:

The port needed a recessed cut for the flange. A plunge router is the best tool for getting an accurate recess depth. Most plunge routers have some sort of depth stop adjustment. The Bosch I own (model 1617) uses a stop rod/rotating stop turret arrangement.

With the bit chucked into the collet, set the router on a flat surface. Plunge the router till the tip of the bit is just touching the flat surface and lock it into place.


Sometimes it's possible to use the work piece itself to set the depth but in this case the piece interfered with parts of the router and would not set straight.


Here's where a set of calipers can be used. Just take a measurement of the flange thickness and use it to transfer the dimension to the stop. Zeroing the calipers at the measurement will allow for easily seeing if the calipers shift during the transfer.


I'm using the Jasper 240 circle jig for the circle cuts. When using a circle jig, use a backer board. I used a piece of " MDF. Firmly attach the backer so that the completed cut will not compromise the attachment. I use brads so I placed two near the center pivot and two outside the outer cut line. My first cut is the inner dim. This way it's easy to see when the flange recess cuts are complete. First the inner through cut at recess depth, then the outer flange dim., then step the diameter down incrementally till the flange recess is complete with a clean bottom. Reset to the inner through dim and step the turret to get incrementally deeper cuts till the cut goes through.


The only problem was with accepting the dimensions from the documentation. It left too much of a gap. Lesson learned.


The backs are done. Next post the baffles.

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