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-   -   Looking for driver and general sub advice (https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/23124-looking-driver-general-sub-advice.html)

tstewart 11-23-09 07:31 AM

Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

Hello. I'm in the early planning stages of a sub build, and am trying to decide between the drivers below (for Christmas :) ).
Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm $160 (probable choice)
Dayton DVC385-88 15" DVC Series Subwoofer $150
Dayton TIT400C-4 15" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer 4 Ohm $220

Room dimensions: 15'x20'
Music/HT: 50/50
Amp: Behringer EP 1500 (used)(don't have it yet, so advice on this would also be helpful)
Sub volume: 9 cubic ft. or so, ported
Sub location: rear corner (not ideal I know) next to end of sofa

I will go with a ported design. Dimensions will be roughly 2' tall x 1'-10" wide x 2'-6" deep. There is a HVAC vent right behind where it will be, so I don't want the port or driver to be in the back to avoid blasting the rest of the house (although I can close the vent if absolutely necessary). I'd also like to avoid having anything on top, because this will basically be an end table/cabinet. So, which ways should the driver and port be facing? Other design advice?

I'm leaning toward the Reference HF driver due to price. If someone tells me I really need the Mk III, I will probably shell out the extra dough.

I'm most of the way done renovating my HT room, and plan on doing a thread on that in addition to the sub build.

Thanks!

evilskillit 11-23-09 07:49 AM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

My friend built a Dayton Reference 12" RSS315HF in an approx 4 cu ft ported box and man does that thing sound good. I'm not sure why anyone would pay more for the titanic except maybe for the extra excursion for movies, but at that point I think I'd go with an exodus audio subwoofer.

So my money would be on the Reference 15. I don't think it will disappoint you.

tstewart 11-23-09 08:15 AM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

I forgot to mention that I will generally be using low gain due to the wife (I forget the acronym y'all use). Also, I would like to tune it to 18 Hz or lower.

tstewart 11-23-09 08:34 AM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

Quote:

evilskillit wrote: (Post 209040)
My friend built a Dayton Reference 12" RSS315HF in an approx 4 cu ft ported box and man does that thing sound good. I'm not sure why anyone would pay more for the titanic except maybe for the extra excursion for movies, but at that point I think I'd go with an exodus audio subwoofer.

So my money would be on the Reference 15. I don't think it will disappoint you.

Thanks for the advice. The only Exodus I see in my price range is the
Exodus DPL-15 at $140. Any opinions on that vs. the Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF? Any other suggestions on drivers or sub design? I am leaning toward a down firing driver. Appearance wise, I'd like to fire the port (probably round 6") out the back, but with the heat register back there, that may not be best. I am guessing, based on reading other threads, that to get the port length for sub 18 Hz, I will need to go long ways with the port tube, so out the front. Whichever way they go, should the driver and port be centered? If not, how far off center?

For grins I will mention that I am building all the cabinets in the room. A long credenza in front, under the wall mounted TV, a display cabinet, a dog crate and the subwoofer. The dog crate will be at one end of the straight sectional, and the sub at the other. The will be similar in size and appearance. Maybe I'll add a porthole to the crate to match the sub port.:T

dyohn 11-23-09 09:52 AM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

You'd probably be better off building with the Dayton driver rather then the Exodus DPL due to its higher Qts, as you'll be able to create a system with Qtc around .5 or .6. I've used the Dayton HF drivers in as small as 2 cuft and it really does sound nice, especially for music.

Mike P. 11-23-09 03:10 PM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

1 Attachment(s)
Depending on how much output you want, the Dayton RSS390HF will do well in 9 cu. ft. tuned to 18 hz with a pair of 4" flared ports 21" long each or one 6" port 22" long. There is a sub build with this driver here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...sub-build.html


The sub will take 300 watts to reach Xmax. The Titanic-15 will go louder and lower with 800 watts. Both subs need a hi-pass filter at 18 hz to protect the drivers from over excursion at the lower frequencies.

Attachment 17412


Quote:

Exodus DPL-15 at $140. Any opinions on that vs. the Dayton RSS390HF-4 15"
The DPL-15 is an IB sub, not what you want for your application.




tstewart 11-24-09 04:50 PM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks, Mike. I've now played with WinISD a bit. It's very cool. I guess people have found its modeling to be pretty accurate?

For some reason, the curve I got for the Titanic was not as flat as yours using the parameters you specified.

I modeled the Titanic and the HD (gray) and HO (orange) versions of the RSS390 along with the Titanic (green). The HO has higher SPL between 18 and 21 hz, but has a dip at 25. I'm not sure what the impact of the S curve vs. the rounded curve will be on the listening experience.

evilskillit 11-24-09 08:21 PM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

You may have entered in your TS parameters slightly different than he did. As you can see the titanic is only a benefit if you run more power model the titanic with 300 watts vs the reference 15 at 300 watts if thats the amp you're planning on getting so you can see how they'll compare for you.

As far as the reference HO its basically the car verison, it models similarly but in a much smaller box, it does however require quite a bit more power to reach the same output. I wouldn't recommend using the HO for home use unless you just had to have a much smaller box than most of the other subs would allow.

And yes the DPL-15 is not really intended for use in a box it is an infinite baffle sub and would not be comparable for what you are doing.

edit, didn't see that you were using an ep1500, so a sub that handles more power could be a benefit.

Right now I see that the Titanic 15 is $220. for $220 I might lean more towards the exodus audio shivax2 for $198 or the Tempestx2 for $220. I like the Dayton Reference subs, I feel the represent a great value and have great sound quality but once you go past the $200 mark I think Exodus Audio or CSS or a lot of the other sub companies begin to offer a better value.

TempestX2 15" > Titanic 15"

tstewart 12-12-09 03:10 PM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I've purchased the RSS390HF. I guess I will end up getting one of the bash plate amps for the ease of adding the high pass filter (compared to the ep1500). I have space for about an 11-12 cu. ft. box (2'wide x 2'tall x 3'deep). It is going at the end of my theater seating. To maximize volume in the space I will probably not make it down firing. So, I'm trying to figure out where to put the driver and the port. The only surfaces that are not up against something are the top and front. On the side away from the seating is a floor to ceiling drape in a 6" space between the side of the sub and the end wall. Would it work to put the driver on that side, or would the drapes absorb too much of the sound? On the side towards the seating will be about a 2" space. Would the driver work there? If you guys say the best options are the top and the front, which should go where? It seems like a bad idea for the port and driver to both be in the front, although I know some subs use that design. I would think there would be some out of phase cancellation between the driver and the port, but maybe they tend to produce different frequencies?
The port tube will be about 15" long, so I think it could go out the top or front (or side).

I have a slightly wackier question. My theater seating has some space behind it (between the back wall and the seat): about 7" x 12" x 8' (4 cu. ft.) I could build a box to go in that space that would connect to the main part of the sub box. Would that help me get lower frequencies? I would think a long skinny box like that would have some strange acoustic properties, so that I can't simply increase the box volume in WinISD!

Mike P. 12-12-09 03:17 PM

Re: Looking for driver and general sub advice
 

Which Bash amp are you considering? The 300 watt or the 500 watt amp?





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