BroadBand Bass Trap's Build - Page 8 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #71 of 175 Old 02-22-09, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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jason
 
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

Couple pictures of 4ft'r QRD with hight udjustable stands...

Cheers....
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BroadBand Bass Trap's Build-2-4ft-qrd-stand.jpg  

BroadBand Bass Trap's Build-3-qrd-diffusor-stand.jpg  

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post #72 of 175 Old 02-22-09, 12:19 PM
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Raven
 
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

I'm following closely in your footsteps, CM!

I couldn't sleep last night, so I started working on these.



I'm recycling some American Oak stair treads that have been in storage for the past 13 years. They happened to be the same thickness as the design that inspired mine, so I worked from those measurements.

Unfortunately, just as I was cruising through the deepest cuts, the motor failed on my table saw! I can't afford this right now! I'm hoping I can figure out how to fix it myself.



When/If I ever get these done (I have four of them I'm working on now for the back wall), I'll be staining them in a deep cherry color to match the trim I've still yet to install. LOL
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post #73 of 175 Old 02-22-09, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

Wow they look good so far Raven, I think staining them as aposed to painting is the best option Especialy with hard wood. Deep Cheery will look Awesome...

What happend to your saw that is an induction motor & are usually very reliable,
Does The motor Hummmm or did smoke come out of the capasitor cover on top of the motor, because it could be the Start/run capasitor which is an easy fix...

Its A pitty I am across the pond or I would fix it for you, but if you discribe what it did before it stopped may help....

Cheers....
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post #74 of 175 Old 02-22-09, 06:43 PM
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

Quote:
cinema mad wrote: View Post
Wow they look good so far Raven, I think staining them as aposed to painting is the best option Especialy with hard wood. Deep Cheery will look Awesome...

What happend to your saw that is an induction motor & are usually very reliable,
Does The motor Hummmm or did smoke come out of the capasitor cover on top of the motor, because it could be the Start/run capasitor which is an easy fix...

Its A pitty I am across the pond or I would fix it for you, but if you discribe what it did before it stopped may help....

Cheers....
The motor was having trouble spinning and popped the breaker. I took it all down (belt drive) and found it was *not* the arbor, belt, angle, or tension...so I started looking at the motor. It's a combination of things I feel. The bearing felt tight rather than smooth, the armature looks like it was rubbing a bit, I believe I did see a little smoke from the cap...and the little plastic looking disc that I believe the current passes through (not sure how but a copper leaf rides on this bakelite looking disc) is cracked and broken.

I'm attempting to clean and lub the bearings, and epoxy the backside of this disc...but if it passes current the way it looks, then I'm betting it's no go. If all that works, I'll track down a new capaciter. At this point, I should probably just track down a new motor. I just really can't afford this right now...so I'm kinda stuck on all projects till I can get the table saw spinning again.
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post #75 of 175 Old 02-22-09, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

The bearings should'nt be tight at all and can lead to issues, It sounds like the Rotor (armature) was poling (rubbing on the stator)... The little Slip ring on the front of the Rotor is only used for Start up it basiclly Engages & disengages the start cap for higher start-up torque it works on centrifugal force, once the motor is spinning at A certain RPM the slip ring disengages the start cap...

Cheers Lonely Raven...
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post #76 of 175 Old 02-22-09, 10:03 PM
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Raven
 
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

Quote:
cinema mad wrote: View Post
The bearings should'nt be tight at all and can lead to issues, It sounds like the Rotor (armature) was poling (rubbing on the stator)... The little Slip ring on the front of the Rotor is only used for Start up it basiclly Engages & disengages the start cap for higher start-up torque it works on centrifugal force, once the motor is spinning at A certain RPM the slip ring disengages the start cap...

Cheers Lonely Raven...
Thanks for that education. I'll be shopping for a used motor and I'll chime in when I get my diffusers done.
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post #77 of 175 Old 02-23-09, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

If you can, See If you can fined an induction motor with higher hp rating than the original motor but runs around the same RPM as the old motor, "the RPM is the important thing to remember", also the shaft & Key way OD That way you can just swap the pully's straight over and your good to go....

Cheers...
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post #78 of 175 Old 02-23-09, 07:25 AM
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Raven
 
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

I was poking around, and all the induction motors seem to be direct drive setups. Which just isn't possible with this particular saw. All the cap-start, belt drive motors that fit this table are 1HP, 3450RPM with the same pully diameter and shaft setup...which at least makes it easy to swap out another motor.
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post #79 of 175 Old 02-26-09, 12:28 AM
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

OK, I'm back on track to trying to get caught up with you! I picked up a replacement saw tonight!



And yes, it happens to be the same 25 year old one as mine! LOL

Mine was more tricked out, so I swapped the motor into my old saw which has a cast iron top and better fence. And I got to work!



I'm *really* shocked as to how much this wood warped since Sunday when my saw died! Because I didn't get the relief cuts done before the saw died, it was starting to bow and twist a bit...so my cuts were off quite a bit on some passes because the wood was no longer square. It doesn't help that it was already checked and chipped from being in storage for 13 years....so dont' pick on me for the veins being off!





OK, it's way past my bedtime...I need to be up for work in 5 hours.

Mad, do you have any tips on how I should stain and clearcoat these? I have some nice oil based stain I plan on using...but I'm wondering if I only clearcoat the front side, will that cause it to warp badly because the backside is untreated?
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post #80 of 175 Old 02-26-09, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
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jason
 
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Re: BroadBand Bass Trap's Build

Wow Raven you have been working very hard by the looks of it , I am impressed.. your not mucking about gettin straight back into it LoL... Good to see you have your table saw up and running...

Yes those cuts in the back are very important to relieve the tension out of the wood & stop the Diffusors warping....

As far as staining I would say just stain the fronts and sides thats all I did & I have'nt noticed any warping, I used A little artist brush to get down into the Diffusion Wells and then used A piece of cotton sheet to quickly rub off the excess to get A nice even stain...

Before Staining I spent A while sanding the diffusors first especially in the Wells, I started with 120grit then 240grit then 420grit to get A nice smooth finnish....

For the clear coats I made sure the Diffusors were free of dust and just painted on with A brush carfully so as not to get air bubbles, so I only stirred the clear in the tin not shaken..
I poured A little at A time into A cup so I would'nt contaminate the large tin of clear with the stain residue that is left on the paint brush after applying the clear coat....

Is that your Blue Suzuki Motor Bike ? what size is it, I am mad on bikes ....

Cheers....
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