MrLoofer's Garage HT Build - Page 3 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #21 of 177 Old 04-14-10, 02:47 PM
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

It looks like you're doing a fantastic job and taking care to do things right. I did a similar garage conversion but would never have tackled such a project myself (I have two left hammers). Congrats.

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http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...r-project.html
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post #22 of 177 Old 04-14-10, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

Thanks guys! We've come quite a way in the past week. We're a couple of days behind schedule and due to prior commitments we won't be able to drywall until Monday. We will however be getting insulation done by end of this week, drywall by Wed then mudding by end of week and hopefully paint that weekend. Fingers crossed..

Here's a quick video of the inside now:
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post #23 of 177 Old 04-14-10, 11:43 PM
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

Does anyone have any suggestions for rack ventilation? We're going to be building a complete enclosure that will be recessed into the 2nd half of the garage but we're not planning on putting any access door on the back. To the right of the rack is a cavity that we're going to use to feed all the cables coming from the ceiling. The cavity will also house all the power strips and transformers etc. This will have an access panel at the rear from the garage. Here's the thing: How well does this need to be ventilated? Should I be considering putting a couple of silent fans in the cavity and have them blow into the rack? What about an exhaust, do I need one? Should I let the air blow back into the room?

[/QUOTE]

Parts express has rack mount ventilation fans with reusable filters on sale i think till the end of the month.
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post #24 of 177 Old 04-15-10, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

Quote:
bambino wrote: View Post
Does anyone have any suggestions for rack ventilation? We're going to be building a complete enclosure that will be recessed into the 2nd half of the garage but we're not planning on putting any access door on the back. To the right of the rack is a cavity that we're going to use to feed all the cables coming from the ceiling. The cavity will also house all the power strips and transformers etc. This will have an access panel at the rear from the garage. Here's the thing: How well does this need to be ventilated? Should I be considering putting a couple of silent fans in the cavity and have them blow into the rack? What about an exhaust, do I need one? Should I let the air blow back into the room?

Parts express has rack mount ventilation fans with reusable filters on sale i think till the end of the month.[/QUOTE]

Cool, thanks! Do you have a link?
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post #25 of 177 Old 04-15-10, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

Ok everyone here's the dilema of the day. I am debating over whether to put in a brand new fixed 16:9 screen or convert the 106" da-lite retractable high powered screen that I already have into a fixed frame and use that. The only issue with the latter is this screen has sagged somewhat over time creating a V in the middle of the screen. I'm pretty sure it could be stretched out though, but I have no clue if it would work without taking the retractable system apart and removing the screen. The screen itself has about a 2" black border on each side so there should in theory be enough to stretch over a DIY frame. Trying to keep costs low and seems a shame to buy another screen (my 120" Vapex fixed screen won't fit in the new room) when I can leverage what's there.

Thoughts?
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post #26 of 177 Old 04-15-10, 08:52 PM
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

Visit the DIY screen section. Mechman and Harp are two fo the most helpful guys on HTS....besides Sonnie and Prof. of course!
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post #27 of 177 Old 04-16-10, 06:57 PM
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

in terms of rack cooling, your definitely going to want fans in there. If I unplug my fans it gets HOT and I mean REALLY hot!

I highly highly highly recommend you check out http://www.coolerguys.com/

They have virtually silent fans and temperature triggered on switches (they come on at 87 and off at 80) . I think I paid around $60 for three 120mm fans, the power converter, temperature switch, and extension cords.

When laying out the fans, you have to remember that air flows like water and heat rises. I have two inlet fans and one outlet fan. My inlet fans have a filter in front of them. By having more inflow than out, I have a positive pressure in the cabinet so air is flowing OUT of all the hinge gaps, door openings, etc. If you had more exhaust flow than inflow, then dust and what not from your room would get sucked IN to the cabinet.

I have a three inch gap in front of and behind all my shelves for airflow. The input fans blow straight up the back of the cab and the exhaust fan is located in the center of the cab ceiling. The theory being that having air blow up one side of the cab (back in my case) you get a circular flow of air going.

I think you can google cabinet ventilation and probably find a diagram of what I am talking about.
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post #28 of 177 Old 04-16-10, 07:00 PM
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

Quote:
mrloofer wrote: View Post
Ok everyone here's the dilema of the day. I am debating over whether to put in a brand new fixed 16:9 screen or convert the 106" da-lite retractable high powered screen that I already have into a fixed frame and use that. The only issue with the latter is this screen has sagged somewhat over time creating a V in the middle of the screen. I'm pretty sure it could be stretched out though, but I have no clue if it would work without taking the retractable system apart and removing the screen. The screen itself has about a 2" black border on each side so there should in theory be enough to stretch over a DIY frame. Trying to keep costs low and seems a shame to buy another screen (my 120" Vapex fixed screen won't fit in the new room) when I can leverage what's there.

Thoughts?
Totally do-able. Build a hard wood frame. Cut the old screen off and staple to the new frame. I would suggest you invest in a cheap air stapler if you have a compressor and DO NOT SINK THE STAPLES IN ALL THE WAY UNTIL THE SCREEN IS STRETCHED AND THEIR ARE NO WRINKLES!!

I pulled about 50 staples out and re stretched my screen about 4 times before I got it perfect. Make sure your frame has at least one veritcal support in the middle to prevent sagging.

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post #29 of 177 Old 04-16-10, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

Quote:
bbieger wrote: View Post
in terms of rack cooling, your definitely going to want fans in there. If I unplug my fans it gets HOT and I mean REALLY hot!

I highly highly highly recommend you check out http://www.coolerguys.com/

They have virtually silent fans and temperature triggered on switches (they come on at 87 and off at 80) . I think I paid around $60 for three 120mm fans, the power converter, temperature switch, and extension cords.

When laying out the fans, you have to remember that air flows like water and heat rises. I have two inlet fans and one outlet fan. My inlet fans have a filter in front of them. By having more inflow than out, I have a positive pressure in the cabinet so air is flowing OUT of all the hinge gaps, door openings, etc. If you had more exhaust flow than inflow, then dust and what not from your room would get sucked IN to the cabinet.

I have a three inch gap in front of and behind all my shelves for airflow. The input fans blow straight up the back of the cab and the exhaust fan is located in the center of the cab ceiling. The theory being that having air blow up one side of the cab (back in my case) you get a circular flow of air going.

I think you can google cabinet ventilation and probably find a diagram of what I am talking about.
Awesome! I'm checking them out right now. I have to figure out where the fans will go and since I have the cavity on the right of the rack that's the ideal place to put them.
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post #30 of 177 Old 04-16-10, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: MrLoofer's Garage HT Build

Quote:
bbieger wrote: View Post
Totally do-able. Build a hard wood frame. Cut the old screen off and staple to the new frame. I would suggest you invest in a cheap air stapler if you have a compressor and DO NOT SINK THE STAPLES IN ALL THE WAY UNTIL THE SCREEN IS STRETCHED AND THEIR ARE NO WRINKLES!!

I pulled about 50 staples out and re stretched my screen about 4 times before I got it perfect. Make sure your frame has at least one veritcal support in the middle to prevent sagging.

Any tips/links on how to build the frame? I think I might just give this a try since I tried selling the screen on Craigslist and no bites so might as well put it to some use! Worth a go eh?
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