The Garage Theater - Page 4 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #31 of 76 Old 03-03-14, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: The Garage Theater

Here are a few shots of what ended up being the main configuration for perhaps a year. I think around this time I sent a letter into one of those HT magazines to get advice, and Theo K used my theater of an example of horrible aesthetics! Okay, he was right... the AV pieces were nice, but she was ugly with the lights on.



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post #32 of 76 Old 03-03-14, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: The Garage Theater

Next step should have been better furniture. But I'm a a/v geek, so instead I started trying various kinds of audio gear -- mostly cycling through various passive and active speakers. More about that when I get to upload some more photos.

For now, a question:

As I am working on version 2.0 now, I am temporarily using some studio monitors (M Audio Studiophile BX8 speakers) behind an AT screen.

I understand how to calculate the ability of a speaker to play at reference level at a certain distance taking into account sensitivity, power handling, etc.

But I am less clear about how to do that with a studio monitor. Anyone know?

Here are the specs:

Typewo-way studio reference
LF Driver: 8-inch magnetically-shield mineral-filled polypropylene curved cone
with high temperature voice coil and damped rubber surround
HF Driver: 1-inch magnetically-shield natural silk dome
Frequency Response: 37Hz - 20kHz
Crossover Frequency: 1.8kHz
LF Amplifier Power: 65W
HF Amplifier Power: 65W
S/N Ratio: >100dB below full output, 20kHz bandwidth
Input Connectors: One XLR balanced input connector; one TRS
balanced/unbalanced input connector
Polarity: Positive signal at + input produces outward low-frequency
cone displacement
Input Impedance: 20k ohms balanced, 10k ohms unbalanced
Input Sensitivity: 85 mV pink noise input produces 90dBA output SPL at 1
meter with volume control at maximum
Acoustic Space Control: 0, -2, -4, dB
High Frequency Control: 0, -2, -4, dB
Mid-range Control: Presence, Flat
Low Cut-off Frequencies: 37Hz, 47Hz, 80Hz
Protection: RF interference, output current limititing, over temperature, turn
on/off transient, subsonic filter, external main fuse
Indicator: Blue power on/off indicator on front panel
Power Requirements: Dual-voltage (selectable by rear-panel switch) for
either 115V/~60Hz, 230V/~50Hz; powered via detachable 3-circuit line cord
Cabinet: vinyl-laminated MDF
Dimension: 380 mm (H) x 250 mm (W) x 300 mm (D)
Weight: 20.32 lb/unit (without packing)

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post #33 of 76 Old 03-04-14, 10:50 AM
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Re: The Garage Theater

No idea how I missed this thread and have not posted before!

I like the lesson learned you add to each one - very informative for those of us reading along.

As far as the speakers, I suggest posting in the Home Audio Speakers subforum to get a quicker response.


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post #34 of 76 Old 03-04-14, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Re: The Garage Theater

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No idea how I missed this thread and have not posted before!

I like the lesson learned you add to each one - very informative for those of us reading along.

As far as the speakers, I suggest posting in the Home Audio Speakers subforum to get a quicker response.
Thanks! Yeah, the lessons learned are too often embarrassing because the info and guidance is "out there" but in some cases I was cutting corners or thinking I was being smarter than I was -- or I didn't understand WHY people recommend doing something the way they do, until it was too late! Hopefully other people can learn from my mistakes -- so I am trying to explain WHY I should have done things differently, to drive the point home.

---

Yes, I went looking in the speaker forum (I think) and found a "sticky" thread about speaker sensitivity, SPL, etc etc which seemed like the right spot to ask the question, and asked it there, too.

(Hopefully I don't get my hand slapped for cross posting! )
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post #35 of 76 Old 03-04-14, 11:46 AM
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Re: The Garage Theater

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LESSONS LEARNED: I should have researched how to make the riser into a bass trap. That would have been an almost free (other than effort) nice big bonus!
Any specific reason why? I see this all over the place but I haven't seen (or just haven't understood) any explanations of how this is particularly beneficial.


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post #36 of 76 Old 03-04-14, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Re: The Garage Theater

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Any specific reason why? I see this all over the place but I haven't seen (or just haven't understood) any explanations of how this is particularly beneficial.
I'm going to assume your "why" is not "Why are bass traps useful?" I'll bet you know that one! (If that is what you are asking, we should move our discussion to the acoustics area.)

So I think the question is "Why turn your riser into a bass trap?"

The answer: Because I am already eating up 6x12x1' = 72 cubic feet of space in my theater. And buying a bunch of insulation to put in there. Turning that into 72 cubic feet of bass trapping means I don't need to eat up ANOTHER 72 cubic feet for dedicated bass trapping. I save space, money, and the ugliness of a dedicated trapping system by making the riser do double duty.

I hope that answers the right question
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post #37 of 76 Old 03-04-14, 12:05 PM
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Re: The Garage Theater

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I'm going to assume your "why" is now "Why are bass traps useful?" I'll bet you know that one!

So the question is "Why turn your riser into a bass trap?"

The answer: Because I am already eating up 6x12x1' = 72 cubic feet of space in my theater. Turning that into 72 cubic feet of bass trapping means I don't need to eat up ANOTHER 72 cubic feet for dedicated bass trapping. I save space, money, and the ugliness of a dedicated trapping system by making the riser do double duty.

I hope that answers the right question
Yeah, that's what I was asking. I was wondering more about location though, than overall space used. Does having a bass trap on the floor, or under the back row of seating add anything that corner or wall traps don't? I guess I'm assuming that even if you made a 10-foot deep floor to ceiling bass trap in the back of the theater, you'd still want corner traps on the front wall behind the speakers, right?


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post #38 of 76 Old 03-04-14, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: The Garage Theater

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Yeah, that's what I was asking. I was wondering more about location though, than overall space used. Does having a bass trap on the floor, or under the back row of seating add anything that corner or wall traps don't? I guess I'm assuming that even if you made a 10-foot deep floor to ceiling bass trap in the back of the theater, you'd still want corner traps on the front wall behind the speakers, right?
Being in a corner and along a wall is ideal. Although some corners are a little better than others, I'm not too prejudice. All are useful. That is where bass congregates. That is where one traps it.

Why does that matter? How does that relate?

Because my riser *IS* in a corner (the corner where the back wall and floor meet). Bass doesn't really care if a corner is vertical or horizontal or in the front or back of the room, etc.

So most risers, if they are like mine, are actually in a perfect place for a bass trap -- in addition to being a cheap way to kill two birds at once (elevated seating, and bass trapping).

Whether that means you don't ALSO need more bass trapping elsewhere is a reasonable question. But it definitely helps. And it's cheap and easy to do and I wish had done it.

---

In my "theater 2.0" I am considering making the riser a foot deeper and MIGHT use that opportunity to turn the riser into the trap it should have been. Maybe. (I think the retrofitting might be a b*tch.)
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post #39 of 76 Old 03-04-14, 12:16 PM
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Re: The Garage Theater

When I asked Bryan about how much trapping I should do for low end, his reply was basically "you can't have too much low end trapping". I also looked into using the riser for trapping, but everything I read gave me the impression that if your riser did not extend from side wall to side wall, you should not use it that way. Unfortunately, that is the case with my riser...


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post #40 of 76 Old 03-04-14, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: The Garage Theater

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When I asked Bryan about how much trapping I should do for low end, his reply was basically "you can't have too much low end trapping".
Yep, as long as you can avoid over damping the high end! That's why people use membranes over them etc, as I understand it.

Quote:
I also looked into using the riser for trapping, but everything I read gave me the impression that if your riser did not extend from side wall to side wall, you should not use it that way.
That's interesting. I have never heard that. Maybe it won't be as effective. But I think it will still be a positive impact.

I mean, should I not use one of my GIK traps because it doesn't reach from floor to ceiling? No I think I should still use it, even though it only covers part of the corner.

But maybe there is something else going on with a riser trap. Do you have more details about that?

(Admittedly, mine is wall to wall, so this is a little academic, but it is an interesting call out.)
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