Hey ppls, a while ago i came here in search of answers to which i did find a few (thanks to those ppl who offered help). That said after further research and lots of simulated modeling, i was ready to begin.
My project a Vented 283L subwoofer for HT use.
DRIVER - Exodus Audio Tempest-X (15" driver)
AMP - Oaudio 500W plate amp
PORT - 155mm ID with custom made 50mm flare both ends
ENCLOSURE - 25mm MDF throughout, outer dimensions 1050x550x675mm.
1 - Puts my car subs to shame. No frills, but it does look well constructed.
2 - Amps naughty bits. Was much smaller than I expected, and not very heavy BUT it has more power than I need, runs very cool, lots of tweaking available, and uses BASH Technology** - and its cheap!
** BASH® is a patented High Efficiency Power Amplifier circuit topology that has taken the best of Class D and Class AB and created a new class of its own.
3 - Making a coffee table. Decided on screw over clamping method. Worked great!
4 - Thats alot of routing. The flare was probably the most time consuming aspect of the whole job.
design - I used sketchup to fully model that construction process to ensure what was in my head actually worked!
5 - Test fitting the driver. Router bit wasn't able to penetrate all the way through the front baffle (50mm). So the last bit was tackled with a jigsaw. Was a little rough on the inside so a used a 1/2" round over bit to neaten up (not seen in this photo).
6 - Both flares test fitting onto pvc pipe. Cheers to 'Collo's DIY Subwoofer Enclosure' website for guidance on constructing this.
7 - Test fitting the amp, rebate depth was spot on.
8 - Lots & lots of builders filler. This stuff worked great, and set very fast! Dont mix to much at once as its working time is pretty short. Used this to mold both flares and as a general filler. Nice and easy to sand.
9 - Wasnt sure if there was enough bracing, but once it was in i knew that it was fine. Box is solid as a rock.
10 - I used a PVA glue wash to seal the flare inside. Decided to do this to help reinforce the filler since it wasnt going to get a coat of paint.
11 - Loading all the polyester fill. Box is designed for heavy(100%) fill, as per the instructions in the application guide available for the sub. Im not sure if I have enough in there to be honest (can someone advise if i need to add more). I used a product by Quitestuff, an R1.5 insulation batt with acoustic deadening properties. Just got it from bunnings.
12 - Day 1, 4 coats of auto based primer/filler, then lots of sanding. Day 2, 4 coats of satin black on the port/flare and feet. Day 3, 2 coats of tinted Hammered Metal finish (gunmetal+black tint). Day 4, drying. Day 5, another 2 coats of the hammered metal finish then 3 days drying.
*also you may notice the LED bezel mounted just above the port.
ALL DONE!!
13,14 - Driver installed using 1-1/4 bolts.
15 - Now you all can appreciate the size of this monster. Way too heavy for even 2 ppl to lift. I use a trolley to move it around. btw this isnt the theatre, just its testing ground.
16 - Im pretty pleased with the end result!
Spent a number of weeks constructing this. Firing it up for the 1st time, my very first thought was, oh , i hope this doesn't crack the ceiling. Having little chances to audition decent dedicated subs I dont have much to compare by. I have heard the S350 by LSK and own logitech Z680 speakers (which sound pretty awful). My new sub is nothing like anything I have heard before. It goes far deeper than I expected, but still has some musical quality about it. Its hard to describe but different sources do sound different, unlike the logitech's where all the bass sounds the same (except for the peaks).
Anyways its still early days, and its not calibrated or plugged into a
AVR.
Act 2 is to build some floor standing speakers and a center channel.
Then get myself a projector, in ceiling rear speakers, AVR and im set for some serious movie/game time.
3 weeks later
Ive had a chance to start to get to know this sub. Its still not calibrated or plugged into an avr, and currently is plugged into the front channel with its crossover enabled. Im still a little worried about the amount of dampening. I think i might need to add some more to create more resistance, as occasionally at high volume I think the driver might be exerting to far. All the modelling indicated that it would be within a safe amount (xmax) but im not sure if this is actually happening in real world. Otherwise everything is sounding great at this point!
My project a Vented 283L subwoofer for HT use.
DRIVER - Exodus Audio Tempest-X (15" driver)
AMP - Oaudio 500W plate amp
PORT - 155mm ID with custom made 50mm flare both ends
ENCLOSURE - 25mm MDF throughout, outer dimensions 1050x550x675mm.
1 - Puts my car subs to shame. No frills, but it does look well constructed.
2 - Amps naughty bits. Was much smaller than I expected, and not very heavy BUT it has more power than I need, runs very cool, lots of tweaking available, and uses BASH Technology** - and its cheap!
** BASH® is a patented High Efficiency Power Amplifier circuit topology that has taken the best of Class D and Class AB and created a new class of its own.
3 - Making a coffee table. Decided on screw over clamping method. Worked great!
4 - Thats alot of routing. The flare was probably the most time consuming aspect of the whole job.
design - I used sketchup to fully model that construction process to ensure what was in my head actually worked!
5 - Test fitting the driver. Router bit wasn't able to penetrate all the way through the front baffle (50mm). So the last bit was tackled with a jigsaw. Was a little rough on the inside so a used a 1/2" round over bit to neaten up (not seen in this photo).
6 - Both flares test fitting onto pvc pipe. Cheers to 'Collo's DIY Subwoofer Enclosure' website for guidance on constructing this.
7 - Test fitting the amp, rebate depth was spot on.
8 - Lots & lots of builders filler. This stuff worked great, and set very fast! Dont mix to much at once as its working time is pretty short. Used this to mold both flares and as a general filler. Nice and easy to sand.
9 - Wasnt sure if there was enough bracing, but once it was in i knew that it was fine. Box is solid as a rock.
10 - I used a PVA glue wash to seal the flare inside. Decided to do this to help reinforce the filler since it wasnt going to get a coat of paint.
11 - Loading all the polyester fill. Box is designed for heavy(100%) fill, as per the instructions in the application guide available for the sub. Im not sure if I have enough in there to be honest (can someone advise if i need to add more). I used a product by Quitestuff, an R1.5 insulation batt with acoustic deadening properties. Just got it from bunnings.
12 - Day 1, 4 coats of auto based primer/filler, then lots of sanding. Day 2, 4 coats of satin black on the port/flare and feet. Day 3, 2 coats of tinted Hammered Metal finish (gunmetal+black tint). Day 4, drying. Day 5, another 2 coats of the hammered metal finish then 3 days drying.
*also you may notice the LED bezel mounted just above the port.
ALL DONE!!
13,14 - Driver installed using 1-1/4 bolts.
15 - Now you all can appreciate the size of this monster. Way too heavy for even 2 ppl to lift. I use a trolley to move it around. btw this isnt the theatre, just its testing ground.
16 - Im pretty pleased with the end result!
Spent a number of weeks constructing this. Firing it up for the 1st time, my very first thought was, oh , i hope this doesn't crack the ceiling. Having little chances to audition decent dedicated subs I dont have much to compare by. I have heard the S350 by LSK and own logitech Z680 speakers (which sound pretty awful). My new sub is nothing like anything I have heard before. It goes far deeper than I expected, but still has some musical quality about it. Its hard to describe but different sources do sound different, unlike the logitech's where all the bass sounds the same (except for the peaks).
Anyways its still early days, and its not calibrated or plugged into a
AVR.
Act 2 is to build some floor standing speakers and a center channel.
Then get myself a projector, in ceiling rear speakers, AVR and im set for some serious movie/game time.
3 weeks later
Ive had a chance to start to get to know this sub. Its still not calibrated or plugged into an avr, and currently is plugged into the front channel with its crossover enabled. Im still a little worried about the amount of dampening. I think i might need to add some more to create more resistance, as occasionally at high volume I think the driver might be exerting to far. All the modelling indicated that it would be within a safe amount (xmax) but im not sure if this is actually happening in real world. Otherwise everything is sounding great at this point!