Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread - Page 8 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #71 of 189 Old 11-15-09, 02:44 PM
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

I've heard the finished sub was supposed to have a 3rd option for mouth location...but I assume with the mouth dimensions vs the sub's depth, it can't be located at the end, only on 1 of the large faces?

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post #72 of 189 Old 11-15-09, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

Sorry I'm so slow everybody. I got to it as quick as I could

I started the kit yesterday morning and I wrapped it up today. I have not listened to it at all yet. The cab needs to cure overnight. I did take an impedance measurement and a quick close mic measurement.

I'd say that it took me about 6 or 7hrs total. I took a bit more time than needed, but some of that was documentation and a lot of extra stuff that most people wouldn't be doing, so you can chop a few hours off. If I did a 2nd kit and just stuck to the basic build and knew what I was doing it'd probably be more like 3hrs. Either way block off an afternoon and give yourself a good 6hrs to do it and don't try to rush and get it done. Overall it was a straight forward process that was relatively simple. The one trouble spot that I ran into was securing the side panels onto the constructed inner works. The first one wasn't too bad with only minor effort needed to get the inner panels to fall into the dado's. The 2nd one was a bit tougher however. I tried for nearly 30min to get it to fall into place. Eventually I got frustrated and resorted to stomping on it in the area that wouldn't sit down and what do you know, that's what worked. Luckily the whole enclosure construction is really solid, so nothing was damaged in the process. That was the one hiccup. Other than that everything fit together very well and without fuss. Also I built the whole thing by myself. I don't think it'll be a problem for most unless you have back issues. If so then you may want help as you'll need to flip the whole assembly a few times and stand it up.

This kit takes a LOT of screws. Probably around 200 in the enclosure construction not counting the ones for driver mounting and all of the hatches. I used drywall screws for the panels. The end result is really solid and dead feeling except for the relatively unbraced area by the mouth. I sealed up all of the internal edges with caulking as well. It doesn't call for this in the kit construction instructions, but I figured... Why not? The instructions and schematics with the kit were fine. They aren't overly detailed, but they easily get the job done and where there may be room for some deviation or customization to suit a particular end user it's basically left open to interpretation.


The drivers seem to be well built and very solid so far. I measured the TSP's with the Woofertester and they were very, very close to each other. RE,FS, and MMS were all identical. Also I tested them free air to make sure there were no problems before putting them in the cabinet and there were none. Tom listed the xmax rating as 15mm. They were quite clean and noise free all the way up to about 20mm one way and didn't start to get noisy (vent and suspension) until what looked like about 25mm one way using my trusty eye gauge. What I'm saying here is that these drivers do not just fall apart at 15mm. They've got quite a bit of "go" left in them after that. Don't know where the bottom would be, but I'd guess around 30mm inward with a really tight suspension at that point.

One interesting observation is if you tap on the driver cone once you get the kit together there is a lot of sound produced and I could feel the vibration in the driver as a long sustaining very low freq pulse. Way louder, stronger, more sustained and just different than what you get if you tap on the cone of a ported or sealed alignment. Nothing scientific. Just something I thought was neat and caught my attention.

Here is the impedance that I got with the WFT3 and the one that DSL measured. Notice that they are very similar in some ways such as the frequencies that the peaks are located at and yet are very different in others like at the low end and in the overall magnitude of the peaks.







Here is a preliminary close mic FR. It is also very close to what DSL measured, but there are a few differences, which are probably related to the procedures and equipment used. Ignore the low end below around 12hz on mine because the CE4000 is down about 2db at 10hz and falls off very rapidly from there. I am going to get another measurement later on with a different amp that doesn't have as aggressive of a hpf. Also my drive level was way lower than the one that DSL used. In light of all of that the fact that they do look so comparable gives me a warm fuzzy feeling about my low budget measurements.










Listening will start tomorrow.
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post #73 of 189 Old 11-15-09, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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post #74 of 189 Old 11-15-09, 11:28 PM
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

Ricci, this will be interesting - wish Ilkka was still hanging around for detailed outdoor testing.

What do you think your final, total cost is going to be? Kit, shipping, drivers, screws, glue, bolts, paint for finishing, etc.? It's looking to me like this will come in a couple hundred more than what would be needed to build two high excursion 18" driver LLTs, say Maelstrom Xs - does that seem about right?


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post #75 of 189 Old 11-16-09, 12:30 AM
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

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Ricci, this will be interesting - wish Ilkka was still hanging around for detailed outdoor testing.

What do you think your final, total cost is going to be? Kit, shipping, drivers, screws, glue, bolts, paint for finishing, etc.? It's looking to me like this will come in a couple hundred more than what would be needed to build two high excursion 18" driver LLTs, say Maelstrom Xs - does that seem about right?
to the DEATH! cudos to you, sir.
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post #76 of 189 Old 11-16-09, 02:52 AM
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

I'm just wondering - it's always good to have a measuring stick.


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post #77 of 189 Old 11-16-09, 04:13 AM
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

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I'm just wondering - it's always good to have a measuring stick.
well I just can't seem to get an answer, but then, I guess the jury is still out. 4 21" MX's tuned to 15Hz, or, 3 DTS10 Super Spuds, from 11Hz-35Hz... who wins? I gotta pull the trigger soon here... I hope there is a definitive answer in the next few weeks.
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post #78 of 189 Old 11-16-09, 04:30 AM
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

Great Job Ricci. Cant wait for your listening results......
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post #79 of 189 Old 11-16-09, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

I'd say that the total cost with all of that included is around $1150 Steve.

2 Mal-X sw's should end up a bit more expensive after factoring enclosure materials and the extra amplifier costs, unless you want to run each Mal-x off of about 650w. I'm much more interested in performance than minimizing costs though. I'm not going to speculate on the performance even though I'm pretty sure that I have an idea of how things shake out. It will take quite a bit of effort to make as well designed and solid of an enclosure. There's more to things than max output too and some of the speculation is a bit ridiculous to me. Comparing it with 4 18's on 3-4x the power and even larger total enclosure volume for example. The real comparison IMHO is with one DIY high powered, 18 cu ft or larger ported 18, or maybe a pair of large 15" EBS's, or pair of 18" sealed high power subs.

I wish Illka was still around too.




Ryan,

I think it's time to just go with your gut. You won't get a definitive answer to your question. There will always be something better, so there is no clear cut winner.
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post #80 of 189 Old 11-16-09, 12:56 PM
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Re: Danley Sound Labs, DTS-10 " Super Spud" kit and build thread

ya, I just can't think of a way to squeeze these into a van... if the exit was at the end, sure, but to stack them I'd have to recess each one a little further back to avoid blocking the previous mouth
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