Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project... - Page 5 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #41 of 177 Old 02-14-07, 04:15 PM
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

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We put folks we don't like back there...
Well you got to do something witham

Ok!.. so now we have to figure out what veneer you would like to go with lol
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post #42 of 177 Old 02-14-07, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

Veneer... (emoticon placing money back into pocket)

I figured I would finish it with the textured finish like my Plus/2's. I think Rodny has a pretty similar textured paint he has used before... and of course he has the spray gun.
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post #43 of 177 Old 02-14-07, 05:51 PM
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

Sonnie,

I've been busy and not around many parts recently, but this looks like a great project.

If you end up building one similar to mine, I can promise that you will be blown away. This thing has tons of power and can really dig low. There is no boom from mine, it is very clean.

You're showing 580L right now, but I don't believe that you've subtracted anything for bracing, the port volume, or the drivers. For my sub, I calculated that all that took up around 60L. So, you're down to somewhere between 500L and 520L, which puts you right around the same ballpark as Steve's and my sub. So, looking good. You'll be happy with the results.

For my port, I went to Lowes with a tape measure and tried to find the smallest 10" diameter Sonotube I could. It was around 9 3/8" ID. I haven't gotten around to making a grill cover for mine, so I wish I would have attempted to spray paint the inside of the tube black.

My box came in at 200pounds plus 60pounds for the drivers.

-Ryan


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post #44 of 177 Old 02-14-07, 05:52 PM
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

Oops, just noticed page 2. it looks like you're thinking two separate boxes. Either way would be good.

-Ryan


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post #45 of 177 Old 02-14-07, 06:32 PM
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

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If you end up building one similar to mine, I can promise that you will be blown away. This thing has tons of power and can really dig low. There is no boom from mine, it is very clean.
Hey Ryan...This is what we all like about our LLT's Sonnie. Sure there are plenty of other great options out there, but for a vented sub, I really like the characteristics of a LLT. I have always noticed my boughten subs tend to sound better the lower they're tuned, (others might disagree) so when I went DIY, I just had to give the LLT a notice since space was a secondary concern. Although I like to play around and build a smathering of subs, I still haven't came across any sub (that I have built or bought) that sounds any better than the last sono LLT's I built. It's like K/Ryan says..there is no boom!..just unadulterated well behaved bass.
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I figured I would finish it with the textured finish like my Plus/2's. I think Rodny has a pretty similar textured paint he has used before... and of course he has the spray gun.
A option that I somehow figured wasn't in the plans
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plus 60pounds for the drivers.
Kinda light RL-p you bought there Ryan. Mike didn't send you the 12'vs did he?
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post #46 of 177 Old 02-14-07, 08:51 PM
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

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steve nn wrote:
Although I like to play around and build a smathering of subs, I still haven't came across any sub (that I have built or bought) that sounds any better than the last sono LLT's I built. It's like K/Ryan says..there is no boom!..just unadulterated well behaved bass
And this guy has "been there" and "done that"


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post #47 of 177 Old 02-14-07, 09:10 PM
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

Hey Sonnie!! I'm going to charge you by the pound... .......... ...........


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post #48 of 177 Old 02-15-07, 12:53 AM
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

I'm glad my idea was some benefit.

A few aditional random thoughts;

When designing ports, don't forget multiples, bends and outside the box ports.

With some bends you could fire the port(s) out the bottom. This might blend with the drivers output better.

If this box is to be permanently mounted to the wall I vaguely remember that there was a baseboard on the wall. Could you use the gap between the cabinet and the wall due to the baseboard as a type of outside the cabinet port? 3/4" adds up when you are dealing with this large of a cabinet.

Consider that a 3/4" gap by 38" wide gives the same area as a 6" diameter circle. If you were to seal a 38" wide channel that exits the back of the cabinet near the top, and travels to the bottom, the signal would then merge with the driver's front wave and you would have a port that doesn't take up any internal volume of the cabinet, doesn't require any pipe and should minimize the multiple source problem.

Of course the downsides are there as well, you would need to mount/seal this cabinet securely to the wall. You might also want to put in some way of getting to the drivers without removing it from the wall. Lastly if this design sucks sonically, it would be a pain in the butt to fix.

I am glad that I do not have to move this beast.

Paul
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post #49 of 177 Old 02-15-07, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

I wonder just how heavy this thing would be if I made it one piece... and Rodny... I don't mind paying by the pound as long as it's no more than 10 cents per pound...


Ryan... 260lbs... that is serious! Thanks for chiming in too!


Paul, I think I'm gonna go with a pair of boxes and with the regular porting so that they can be moved easily if need be. I'm thinking it makes sense to port out the sides to help with the driver and port "meshing" (I think that's the word I read earlier).


Well I reckon I need to get me a pair of subs ordered from Mike at SoundSplinter, and the EP2500 amp from my distributor.

I'm gonna have to have a crossover too. I can get this for about $65...



It should more than do the job.

I'm assuming PVC is okay to use for the ports?

What about binding posts..... is something like this okay:



For the most demanding high-current applications,
this input terminal is top dog. Binding posts accept
both banana plugs and raw wire up to 4 gauge!
Posts are 2-3/8" on-center and each require a 1-1/4"
diameter cabinet hole. The proper polarity is easy
to determine from the handy color-coded stripes
on each post. Comes with built-in solder tabs on
the rear of the unit that can accept 1/4" female
disconnects or will readily accept a hardy soldered
connection. Outside Dimensions: 4-3/4" x 2".



I like T-nuts to mount the drivers.


Do I need polyfill?


I appreciate all you guys help!
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post #50 of 177 Old 02-15-07, 03:16 AM
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Re: Dual RL-p15 D2 LLT Sub Project...

Why do you need an additional crossover? I wouldn't assume the FR effects would be the same until you measure, and I'd cross such subs over to SBS-01s pretty high, like 120hz. Port on the sides but drivers will still be downfiring, yes?


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