Maelstrom-X Horn - Page 4 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #31 of 113 Old 01-04-11, 11:59 PM
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You will be in for a treat when you can put some power to it!!!!

Matt

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post #32 of 113 Old 01-05-11, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
mdrake wrote:
You will be in for a treat when you can put some power to it!!!!

Matt
Man...I can't wait until I can really listen to it. I only hit about half power before that baffle started to rattle, but all I know is the lows sound incredible, and I want to see what they sound like when the volume is actually up pretty loud

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post #33 of 113 Old 01-05-11, 11:43 AM
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

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soho54 wrote: View Post
If you have all leaks fixed the sub can handle everything the EP2500 can dish out bridged, with a 13-15Hz HP.
Right. That was one of the goals for the initial simulation. Take the sub as deep into the sub bass as possible while still maintaining enough excursion headroom to handle the biggest peaks from the EP amp, all in a somewhat reasonable sized cab (for a horn at least. ).

Like Soho54 says above it should take the whole amp bridged for short durations above 15hz IF the leaks are taken care of and the cab design matches the simulation which it should be close. The fact that you can see the driver excursion is a good advantage. Just take it easy at first until you are sure everything is ok to let it rip.

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You are now a subwoofer pioneer, congrats to you and all that helped design it. What's next on this forum, a LMS Ultra folded horn?
I will be doing one of those this year. I am deep into the cabinet design right now...
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post #34 of 113 Old 01-05-11, 11:07 PM
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

wow, great stuff.

Can't wait to see your REW plots.

Source: SB Duet, Pre/Pro: Integra DHC-9.9, Speakers: SGR MT3FSL (active), Sub Amp: Crown K2, Subs: 2x SGR Maelstrom-X (125L Sealed)
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post #35 of 113 Old 01-05-11, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the bracing that we installed (don't worry, it will get painted)



There's an inch overall of wood on the cones' side of the baffle, with both pieces wedged up tightly against the baffle. Glued and nailed there in several places.



Looks like I should have used 1/2" or thicker for the plexiglass department...



Well I got the box back in the house to do some listening.
Even after adding all that bracing, the baffle is still managing to rattle around on the plexiglass side quite a bit. So I still had to keep the volumes down a lot

I'm going to add some more aluminum from the back of the mouth of the horn, to the current piece of aluminum thats there. Hopefully that will help some more. Then I'll add some more bracing on the plexiglass side of it all. If that doesn't stop it, I'll either deal with the rattle, or cut a nice piece of mdf to fit in place of the plexi, and glue and nail the you know what out of it.

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post #36 of 113 Old 01-05-11, 11:40 PM
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

hi Dylan,

Do you know what exactly is rattling, is it the plexiglass or one of the panels?

Silence is golden but duct tape is silver.

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post #37 of 113 Old 01-05-11, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
robbo266317 wrote:
hi Dylan,

Do you know what exactly is rattling, is it the plexiglass or one of the panels?
It's the sub baffle (as far as I know). I can see the magnet of the sub moving quite a bit if I turn it up.

I had an idea...would it be a bad idea to run another 3/4" piece of wood up where the current sub baffle is, and just glue and nail it to the current baffle ? Would loosing 3/4" off of the throat mess up the sound / performance of the horn ??

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post #38 of 113 Old 01-06-11, 01:17 AM
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

The problem is the window. At the point in the sub where the most pressure and weight are battling it out, you have a section of the panel floating. To make matters even worse it is also at the thinnest panel section in the horn as well. The movement here is what pulled the backside around.

The new brace really needs to be placed between the sub mounting wall where it is thinnest, to the opposite wall at the throat on this side. It will block the view of the front of the driver, but it will kill a good bit of the movement. Adding an extra board thickness to the "baffle" on the mouth side won't do as much.

Sorry, you are having such a time. Wish we had caught the window placement you wanted, before you had cut it out.


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post #39 of 113 Old 01-06-11, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

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soho54 wrote: View Post
The problem is the window. At the point in the sub where the most pressure and weight are battling it out, you have a section of the panel floating. To make matters even worse it is also at the thinnest panel section in the horn as well. The movement here is what pulled the backside around.

The new brace really needs to be placed between the sub mounting wall where it is thinnest, to the opposite wall at the throat on this side. It will block the view of the front of the driver, but it will kill a good bit of the movement. Adding an extra board thickness to the "baffle" on the mouth side won't do as much.

Sorry, you are having such a time. Wish we had caught the window placement you wanted, before you had cut it out.
Only problem with running a brace from the cone side of the baffle to the next panel is the fact that i won't be able to secure it to the next panel with nails. Only glue, but that should hold it pretty well. I can nail and glue the brace to the sub baffle, just not nail it to the next panel. If the rattling/moving of that panel continues, I may just get rid of the plexiglass completely. But then I would need to make another access panel.....ugh I don't know. Haha.

And its ok. I should have ran across to you guys where I wanted to place the plexiglass before i actually put it in the plans.

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post #40 of 113 Old 01-06-11, 12:49 PM
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

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Only problem with running a brace from the cone side of the baffle to the next panel is the fact that i won't be able to secure it to the next panel with nails.
It won't be a problem with something like PL Premium. Cut the piece tight, and put it into the throat area. Spin it into position setting the non-baffle wall first. Then pull the baffle wall side towards you, and tap it in with a hammer. Use a clamp with the head reversed to apply pressure from the opposite side in the mouth fold, and you are done. Without nails the wood will crack next to the seem before the PL will let go.

The p-glass flex will be the only problem then.

The brace doesn't have to be very large either, so you don't have to cover everything up behind the p-glass there.


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