Maelstrom-X Horn - Page 5 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #41 of 113 Old 01-06-11, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
soho54 wrote:
It won't be a problem with something like PL Premium. Cut the piece tight, and put it into the throat area. Spin it into position setting the non-baffle wall first. Then pull the baffle wall side towards you, and tap it in with a hammer. Use a clamp with the head reversed to apply pressure from the opposite side in the mouth fold, and you are done. Without nails the wood will crack next to the seem before the PL will let go.

The p-glass flex will be the only problem then.

The brace doesn't have to be very large either, so you don't have to cover everything up behind the p-glass there.
Very well put explanation...thank you very much. About how large should the new brace be ? Like 5" tall, 1/2"-3/4" thick, and however wide to to fit very tight ? I would put two in the throat...one above the driver, and one below it. Maybe even one in the middle of it also for good measure. Should I also put some bracing from the back of the mouth to the back of the sub baffle ?

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post #42 of 113 Old 01-06-11, 02:46 PM
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

For the brace that Soho is talking about don't use mdf. If you can, go to a hardware store and get a 1.5" or so diameter dowel rod. even an old broom handle cut down could work. Cut it slightly oversized so that get some good pressure on the baffle when you put it in.
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post #43 of 113 Old 01-06-11, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Ricci wrote:
For the brace that Soho is talking about don't use mdf. If you can, go to a hardware store and get a 1.5" or so diameter dowel rod. even an old broom handle cut down could work. Cut it slightly oversized so that get some good pressure on the baffle when you put it in.
Ok. I don't have any mdf laying around, so I was going to use something else anyways. About how many dowels do you guys think I should use? Three ? One above, below, and in the middle of the sub (I'm using the sub just as a reference point).

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Last edited by sub_junkie; 01-06-11 at 06:31 PM.
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post #44 of 113 Old 01-17-11, 09:09 AM
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

Hey Dylan,
Did you get this fixed yet???
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post #45 of 113 Old 01-17-11, 10:02 AM
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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

just out of curiosity, have you thought about putting fasteners through the sub baffle that is moving from the side in combination with the perimeter fasteners of the plexiglass window? Also there is another material like plexiglass that is more rigid than plex called tuffex. It is good stuff but a little pricey.
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post #46 of 113 Old 01-17-11, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
NEO Dan wrote:
Hey Dylan,
Did you get this fixed yet???
Dan,

No sir, not yet. Tomorrow, my uncle and I are going to install a few more braces from back of the mouth to the baffle, and from the baffle to the throat hopefully. We'll be working on a joint to secure the plexi to the baffle also when we can.

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waculjr.903 wrote:
just out of curiosity, have you thought about putting fasteners through the sub baffle that is moving from the side in combination with the perimeter fasteners of the plexiglass window? Also there is another material like plexiglass that is more rigid than plex called tuffex. It is good stuff but a little pricey.

Waculjr, I hadn't thought about that. Sounds like it would work well. What do you think about that idea, Dan ?

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post #47 of 113 Old 01-17-11, 07:31 PM
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Re: Maelstrom-X Horn

Hi Dylan,
I'm thinking that waculjr.903 didn't notice the 3/8" gap between the baffle board and the plexi, but his intent is the same. By firmly connecting the baffle to the plexi you will prevent flex in both panels, however if you were to just shoot screws into the edge of the baffle board you would probably split it and then you'd really be screwed. So I still recommend the board with the dado to cap the edge of the baffle board so you have something to fill the gap that will also take the fasteners without splitting...

I'm Dan BTW
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post #48 of 113 Old 01-17-11, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
NEO Dan wrote:
Hi Dylan,
I'm thinking that waculjr.903 didn't notice the 3/8" gap between the baffle board and the plexi, but his intent is the same. By firmly connecting the baffle to the plexi you will prevent flex in both panels, however if you were to just shoot screws into the edge of the baffle board you would probably split it and then you'd really be screwed. So I still recommend the board with the dado to cap the edge of the baffle board so you have something to fill the gap that will also take the fasteners without splitting...

I'm Dan BTW
Dan,

Alright, I'll definitely be making that board asap.

And my apologies, it's just a habit

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post #49 of 113 Old 01-20-11, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Wasn't able to install any more bracing yesterday. Looks like it'll have to wait until next week. In the mean time I'll be trying out some PVC bracing at various spots to see where it's needed and where it's not.

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post #50 of 113 Old 01-24-11, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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I cut down some schedule 40 1 1/2" PVC and placed it in various spots against the driver baffle, and the next panel in the throat, and it solved most of the rattling issues. They're still slightly there, but it seems like the mouths' sides are moving/vibrating slightly also. Is that normal ? The horn is sitting off the ground by about 5" on a four-wheel dolly, so maybe once the box is sitting on the ground, it will help stop those sides from moving/vibrating ?

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