Cant tell from the pics if it is smooth or not. To get a great finish I have used car audio paints before with clear finish. I also like using 2pac paint for piano finishes.
If you can get your hands on it there is a product out there called feather fill made by evercoat. It is a polyester based primer that has VERY high build and filling qualities. You would need a large tip primer gun to spray it through but would be great for letting mdf suck it up. Out 3-4 coats on the box. Block sand the whole thing out and it would be smooth and straight.
Thanks for the tip,i am gonna look or i can buy it over here.
Mdf suck,s up the regular primer,even if it is special for mdf.
So i am looking for the way,carpaint and primer i read about and seen it,very good .
But i have no spray set for paint,so i have to shop first.
This finish is done after about 5 coats of automotive primer then block sanded. The black is gloss spray paint from a can. Live by these words. " it's all about the prep job "
Thanks. That's sub a pile of parts that are stuffed in the corners of my garage. Nothing to call home about. Finishing cabs is the easy part for me. The scientific part is where I have much to learn.
Did you design the enclosure yourself or did you buy it from somewhere? I too am seriously considering to build 2x JL audio 13" subwoofers for my HT/music system. I'm deciding between the W6 or W7. What would you recommend? I am thinking of purchasing the diy sound group flat packs for 1.5 cu ft and building a tripath amplifier from PE. What is the lowest hz you've hit on that sub with palpable output?
I build this box myself,it,s 40 liter,s .
It,s easy whit JL drivers u use the closed box the use in the car.
So i buld this box myself,butt like JL would do it self,arround 40/42 liter is ok for a 13W7
I would buy 13W7 ,the W7 will me more for HT use whit his high Xmax.
The lowest palpable output after dsp ussualy arround 15 -20 hz,after use of DSP ofcourse.
I've chosen my design. It will be a isobaric configuration with 2x JL Audio 13W6V2D4 and a Behringer inuke 3000DSP amplifier. The subs have 2x 4 ohm voice coils that I can wire in series and get 8 ohms per woofer and when connected to the amp get 4 ohm combined. That should get 750 watts for each woofer with dsp. Then I will go use 1" thick Baltic Birch Plywood and 2" thick baffles.
Amp en the JL,s match fine like that.
Inuke give,s 2150 watt RMS mono at 4 ohm,that wil drive your drivers just fine.
Nice project,i,am looking forward to seeing your build.
It is not my first sub,i knew a guy how made my sub boxes,so before i did half the work.
Butt this is the first i had to finish of myself.
And indeed the sound is great,so i am a very happy man
Believe it or not you can pretty much teach a monkey how to pull the trigger. Painting is much more involved than just applying. To me what makes a good painter is knowing how to fix problems on the fly and how to assess the job and go about it properly. I.e. color matching. Knowing the substrate and how to prep said substrate properly so you can get good adhesion. Anyone with questions on how to get a nice painted finish feel free to pm me with any questions that you have. Now back to this mans thread ! Sorry for the temporary thread jacking.
I agree with the JL drivers, they work nice in small enclosures. One of our cars now us using the JL 12W3's. In a trunk of an 09 Accord. The rest of the speakers are Infinity Kappas, love their sound.
The real question in my head is are jl subs worth it for the money or can you get better performance from some of the other home audio geared subs. There is a fine line with jl being a name and how they perform. Don't get me wrong I think just about every jl product is dynamite but it also comes at a price.
I think it depends. I got a great deal on my JL drivers for the car. But I agree with Home products. Yes, DIY can get you more for your money, but if you can score a great deal on home subs, then it may be a moot point. All the subs in our house I got on clearance sales, so I don't think I could have built it for the same price and look good at the same time.
I'm not so much talking about store bought subs already finished but drivers that are geared more for home audio. Some car audio subs work out well in doors some dont. But bang for the buck. Would you say a jl 13" w3 is a more capable driver than a new 15" ultimax or the new si 15 ?
Got it! Drivers made for cars are made for compresing much smaller areas. I've never really used a car driver for a home sub, so can't really say. When I've made home subs in the past, I chose drivers made for larger boxes. Maybe someone with the knowledge or experience with this can chime in. As for myself, I've always used drivers designed for cars in cars and those for in-home for home...
AE TD12X for $285. Sure its $85 more expensive but it has amazing performance and reliability behind it. The following design is what I want. Push Pull isobaric.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Home Theater Forum and Systems
742.3K posts
170.9K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to home theater owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about home audio/video, home theaters, troubleshooting, projects, DIY’s, product reviews and more!