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Jl audio 13W3V3-4 40 liter closed box: The best of one world

24K views 41 replies 8 participants last post by  morca 
#1 ·
This topic is the other half of the Best of both world,s.
Because i opened a build of the bandpass,http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ported-subwoofer-build-projects/66158-jl-audio-13w3v3-4-4th-order-bandpass-best-one-world.html
But i took no picture,s of this closed build.

I took one when it was ready,this is one of the 3.
1 stand,s in the HT next to the bandpass.

The other 2 are playing in the living,both in a 40 liter closed box.
But i miss a vented sub in the living,so another new build will come soon :D
 

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#4 ·
Cant tell from the pics if it is smooth or not. To get a great finish I have used car audio paints before with clear finish. I also like using 2pac paint for piano finishes.

Either way looks nice.
 
#5 ·
Thanks,nice to hear.

It sound great,that is what is really important.
JL driver,s preform stunning great in this little box.

Next time i try carpaint and K2 primer.
I hope to get a beter result whit that.
 
#6 ·
If you can get your hands on it there is a product out there called feather fill made by evercoat. It is a polyester based primer that has VERY high build and filling qualities. You would need a large tip primer gun to spray it through but would be great for letting mdf suck it up. Out 3-4 coats on the box. Block sand the whole thing out and it would be smooth and straight.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the tip,i am gonna look or i can buy it over here.
Mdf suck,s up the regular primer,even if it is special for mdf.
So i am looking for the way,carpaint and primer i read about and seen it,very good .
But i have no spray set for paint,so i have to shop first.
 
#11 ·
Did you design the enclosure yourself or did you buy it from somewhere? I too am seriously considering to build 2x JL audio 13" subwoofers for my HT/music system. I'm deciding between the W6 or W7. What would you recommend? I am thinking of purchasing the diy sound group flat packs for 1.5 cu ft and building a tripath amplifier from PE. What is the lowest hz you've hit on that sub with palpable output?
 
#12 ·
I build this box myself,it,s 40 liter,s .
It,s easy whit JL drivers u use the closed box the use in the car.
So i buld this box myself,butt like JL would do it self,arround 40/42 liter is ok for a 13W7

I would buy 13W7 ,the W7 will me more for HT use whit his high Xmax.

The lowest palpable output after dsp ussualy arround 15 -20 hz,after use of DSP ofcourse.
 
#13 ·
I've chosen my design. It will be a isobaric configuration with 2x JL Audio 13W6V2D4 and a Behringer inuke 3000DSP amplifier. The subs have 2x 4 ohm voice coils that I can wire in series and get 8 ohms per woofer and when connected to the amp get 4 ohm combined. That should get 750 watts for each woofer with dsp. Then I will go use 1" thick Baltic Birch Plywood and 2" thick baffles.
 
#21 ·
Thanks.!

It is not my first sub,i knew a guy how made my sub boxes,so before i did half the work.
Butt this is the first i had to finish of myself.
And indeed the sound is great,so i am a very happy man :D
 
#20 ·
Believe it or not you can pretty much teach a monkey how to pull the trigger. Painting is much more involved than just applying. To me what makes a good painter is knowing how to fix problems on the fly and how to assess the job and go about it properly. I.e. color matching. Knowing the substrate and how to prep said substrate properly so you can get good adhesion. Anyone with questions on how to get a nice painted finish feel free to pm me with any questions that you have. Now back to this mans thread ! Sorry for the temporary thread jacking.
 
#26 ·
The real question in my head is are jl subs worth it for the money or can you get better performance from some of the other home audio geared subs. There is a fine line with jl being a name and how they perform. Don't get me wrong I think just about every jl product is dynamite but it also comes at a price.
 
#27 ·
I think it depends. I got a great deal on my JL drivers for the car. But I agree with Home products. Yes, DIY can get you more for your money, but if you can score a great deal on home subs, then it may be a moot point. All the subs in our house I got on clearance sales, so I don't think I could have built it for the same price and look good at the same time.
 
#28 ·
I'm not so much talking about store bought subs already finished but drivers that are geared more for home audio. Some car audio subs work out well in doors some dont. But bang for the buck. Would you say a jl 13" w3 is a more capable driver than a new 15" ultimax or the new si 15 ?
 
#30 ·
Got it! Drivers made for cars are made for compresing much smaller areas. I've never really used a car driver for a home sub, so can't really say. When I've made home subs in the past, I chose drivers made for larger boxes. Maybe someone with the knowledge or experience with this can chime in. As for myself, I've always used drivers designed for cars in cars and those for in-home for home...
 
#31 ·
JL drivers are just as good for HT use ,I got 2 closed in a 40 liter box each in the living.
And a bandpass whit a 40 liter closed box for HT use.

The driver are indeed a little more expensive,but the can handle a lot.
JL drivers are extremly good i think.

For a litle for what it really cost,s i build my own F113 or Gotham.:hsd:
 
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