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post #21 of 35 Old 10-02-12, 02:56 PM
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

(1). Two from speakers either side of the screen which will be 3.5 meters wide or 11.5 feet wide.
You will probably have to "toe in" (angle inward) these speakers so the tweeters are aiming at the primary seating area, also try pulling them out from the wall 2-3 feet.

(2). First sub-woofer to one side of the screen or directly below the screen under the stage.
placeing the subs in the corners of the room will increase their bass

(3). Centre Speaker dead centre of screen, just below the screen.
depending on how low the bottom of the screen is to the floor you may want to try to angle the speaker up a few degrees

(4). Two side speakers 3 meters or 10 feet back from the screen.
When sitting in the primary listening these will be on either side wall? i.e. on the right side it would be by the wild boar head? How far away from the primary listening area (your seat) are these speakers? B&W CNTs?

(5). Rear speakers 6.1 meters or 20 feet back from the screen and about 1 meter or 3 feet behind the seating area.
Looking at your pictures I don't see a wall behind the listening area, I see the pilar, the three couches (one up against the pilar, are there stands I don't see or is the second picture taken right up against the rear wall?
Currently while sitting in the primary seating area, if you turn your around can you easily see the rear speakers or is the back of the couch too high.


(6). Second sub-woofer directly behind the seating area. Again if possible see how the bass is if you put one sub in the front right corner and the other in the back left (or vice versa)
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post #22 of 35 Old 10-03-12, 05:09 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

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Quote:
Andre wrote: View Post
(1). Two from speakers either side of the screen which will be 3.5 meters wide or 11.5 feet wide.
You will probably have to "toe in" (angle inward) these speakers so the tweeters are aiming at the primary seating area, also try pulling them out from the wall 2-3 feet.
Makes perfect sence, thanks.

(2). First sub-woofer to one side of the screen or directly below the screen under the stage.
placeing the subs in the corners of the room will increase their bass
Making notes of all your tips

(3). Centre Speaker dead centre of screen, just below the screen.
depending on how low the bottom of the screen is to the floor you may want to try to angle the speaker up a few degrees
There will be more then enough room to put the Cantre Speaker below the screen, and IF I chose to go with the Panasonic PT-AE6000E or PT-AE8000E I might chose to go with a Aspect Screen Ratio 2:35 as from my understanding this model will show no black lines when watching a movie that was filmed in 16:9 or 2:35 which is a Awesome idea.

(4). Two side speakers 3 meters or 10 feet back from the screen.
When sitting in the primary listening these will be on either side wall? i.e. on the right side it would be by the wild boar head? How far away from the primary listening area (your seat) are these speakers? B&W CNTs?
That is correct on the right side the speaker will be slightly closer towars the screen from where the boar head is between 6 to 12 inches closer to the screen.
So from the Front speakers to the side speakers would be 9 feet and from the side spekers to where the seating area is would also be 9 feet and the rears would be about 3 feet further behind the seating area but on the side walls.

(5). Rear speakers 6.1 meters or 20 feet back from the screen and about 1 meter or 3 feet behind the seating area.
Looking at your pictures I don't see a wall behind the listening area, I see the pilar, the three couches (one up against the pilar, are there stands I don't see or is the second picture taken right up against the rear wall?
Currently while sitting in the primary seating area, if you turn your around can you easily see the rear speakers or is the back of the couch too high.

The rear speakers are on the side not directly behind as the room is a further 26 feet longer from the pillar as the pillar is dead centre of the room. Refer to question 4 and look at the attached photos, hope that makes it clearer.

(6). Second sub-woofer directly behind the seating area. Again if possible see how the bass is if you put one sub in the front right corner and the other in the back left (or vice versa)
Noted

Your advice is very greatfully appreciated.
Regards
Dean
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post #23 of 35 Old 10-03-12, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

I couldn't attach the photo's of the rear photo's that i took...
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post #24 of 35 Old 10-03-12, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

Quote:
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As Joe stated the Audyssey calibration system is part of the software included with the Integra.

If I may I would like to edit your AV “1” list with these changes

1 x Panasonic PT-AT6000E (or the 7000 if you buy US)
Review: http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/proje...eview-hands-on
Reasoning: Your dealer said Optoma has customer service issues in AU. Additionally, placement/adjustment may be more difficult due to minimal lense shift adjustment and manual focus of the Optoma. Panny is also brighter which is a benefit to 3D viewing

With the Panny’s Lens Memory function you can go from a 16:9 screen to a full Cinescope. http://www.ozts.com.au/cinemascope.htm

If you don’t need the IR extension you can go with the Gefen HDBaseT extender and save some $ http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=10870

I am an atheist in the religion of high end cables. The Gefen units come with cables and will be fine, saves you some $ (just check on the cable if they are 1.3 compliant)

Does the calibration in the labor include an ISF certified calibration of the projector and receiver? http://www.ehow.com/about_6647292_isf-calibration_.html

A universal remote URC (Universal Remote Control inc) Digital R50 is a nice one

remote control light dimmer http://www.lutron.com/Products/Stand.../Overview.aspx

Because of the size of your room I will recommend a second sub if it is within your budget. The SVS PC13 Ultra is a cylindrical sub that is easy to move around (did you look at the "sub crawl" video?) and looks cool to boot. http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...07-part-1.html

What did you cousin/father wire your room with?
Firstly thanks a TON for all that info, PLEASE feel free to edit the A/V list. Most of what you suggested is pricless information as the projector is something I want to get right and I'm really struggling as to figure out what projector is the best on the market for both 2D & 3D as many movies will be watched in both 2D & 3D I personally love 3D as much as I love 2D.
Is there a site or forum that have something like the Top 10 2D & 3D projectors.

Please note at this stage I'm also not 100% sure if it's true that Optoma's customer service is bad in Australia, im only going by what I was told by the last AV dealer I called.

The first two AV dealers that I went to both said that the Optoma HD83 is by far the best projector on the market within that price range, I was also told by one dealer, that he took home 4 different projectors and set them up and after everything was set up he asked a couple of friends and his family to pick the clearest projector in both 2D &
3D and ALL of them chose the Optoma HD83 and he said he had a $12,000 projector in those 4 demos that he done which wasn't no where as clear as the HD83, he also told me the name of that $12,000 projector but I forgot what it was.

However is saying that I just read some reviews on the PT-AT6000E (EUROPE) which is the PT-AE8000U (USA) the PT-AT7000E is $3,300 here now in Australia which is Panasonic's last years model.
Unfortunately I don’t see anything online saying that the PT-AT6000E or PT-AE8000U will be in Australia, im guessing it could take anywhere from 3 months to a year before it hits Australia.
I must say I absolutely LOVED what I read and seen via video on Youtube about this projector.
The only thing I don't like is how it's lens sits to one side rather then central however it has plenty of placement/adjustment. I love it's added features to improve the 3D image.
It's best feature by a long shot from my understanding with the PT-AT6000E or PT-AE8000U is if you have a 16:9 screen and if watching a movie filmed like 95% movies are these days in 2.35 the projector either automatically fills the screen eliminating the black lines on the screen or you might have to push a button on the remote for this to take effect, either way its a MASSIVE bonus to have.
It's priced at 3,000 British pounds but I can guarantee you it wont be under $6,000 here in Australia.

Would you still chose the Panasonic PT-AT6000E or PT-AE8000U ahead of the Optoma HD83 even if Optoma's customer service was great in Australia?
Also for what its worth, I don't mind paying around the $6,000 to $6,500 for a projector if I know that the projector is excellent in 2D & 3D but when you go by price it's important to realise that a $4,000 Projector here in Australia will only be around $2,000 in the USA so if you can some how check the Australian prices as well it would be greatly appreciated. Remember im going for a large screen 150" and that the projector will be mounted about 6.1 meters or 20 feet from the screen.

You asked me "Does the calibration in the labour include an ISF certified calibration of the projector and receiver?"
I all honesty, I have no idea mate.

I will defiantly have to get a universal remote and will check out the Digital R50 but keep in mind that I need a universal remote that is going to be VERY VERY SIMPLE to use, because my parents are in there 60's and they cant even turn a computer on.
Due to my high disability I very much doubt that I could use most of the universal remotes on the market today because most are touch screen that only work using your finger tip. If they had a Universal remote that had chunky buttons then I could use that just as I use my current TV remote but it would need to be able to learn about 8 remotes.
I operate everything using a stick in my mouth, so im typing this now using a stick in my mouth (I hate voice activated software) I prefer to type it manually when it comes to operating my computer, I hate voice activated software for 2 reasons, firstly many times it doesn't recognise what you say and ends up typing something totally diffrent, secondly if I didn't type myself I would get so lazy that I would end up forgetting how to spell.
However I do have a universal remote for my TV in my bedroom which I operate also using my mouth, I will need to get another one just for this room as this will need to hold many remotes such as my Projector, Amp, Ble-Ray, DVD recorder and Set top box or Pay TV. This is the universal remote that will work great for me in this room. http://www.tecsol.com.au/PROGC.htm

To complicate matters more at first I was going to have my projector on all day because most days I have my TV on for 10 hours a day, so I came to the conclusion BAD move.
So I still want to purchase a 60 inch LED TV also and either have it on a special fold away bracket or I could have my 60" LED TV bolted to my rock wall, but that would mean that I would then need to get a electronic projector screen in order for the projector screen to go in front of the LED TV but to be honest im not real keen on getting a electronic projector screen especially when your talking 150" I cant help but feel things will go wrong with it, the less electronics the better is my motto, not to mention I quite like the fixed screens.

I also want to get a Multi media player with a 3 or 4 TB hard drive because I record a lot of horse races but I am wanting to be able to make folders for each HORSE so to speak and then each time that horse races I can record its race under a file that has been named that horses name.
I guess it's like having a folder for all the different genre's in movies such as: COMEDY, THRILLER, HORROR, BIO, DRAMA & so on. I'm sure this can be done right?

I will be getting a 2nd Sub but to be honest I have a 2nd Sub and am hoping to use that. Its 21 years old but if its no good I will purchase a new one or the The SVS PC13

My Cousin and father wired my room with Cat-6 & RG6 cable, I will be using HDMI extenders at the end of the Cat-6. I also ran 2 speaker cables of 12 AWG OFC to the back of my pillar just in case I want to put 2 extra speakers on the lower part on the pillar which is only 3 feet wide but its literally directly about 4 feet behind the seating area because at the time I thought that would allow me to get better positioning for rear speakers so I thought I would run the speaker wire just in case, even though its probably a silly idea.

P.s. I tried loading the photo of my rear speakers but for what ever reason it isn't loading.

Thank you so much for all your input you have helped me allot already if you have more advise please keep it coming.
Regards
Dean

Last edited by Wheels1974; 10-03-12 at 08:21 AM.
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post #25 of 35 Old 10-03-12, 11:42 AM
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

“So from the Front speakers to the side speakers would be 9 feet and from the side spekers to where the seating area is would also be 9 feet and the rears would be about 3 feet further behind the seating area but on the side walls

A few things to consider:

Your side surrounds may be a little muffled due to the trophies hanging on either side of them, try to keep at least 3 feet of open wall to either side.

Your Rear surrounds though further away are still at the sides and will not radiate their sound properly as they should be “aimed” at the listening area. You can probably accomplish this by mounting them on a mount that extends out from the wall and pivots towards the listening area. Or, you can move your rear surrounds to the pillar where you can attach a 3 foot long bracket to either side, hang and angle them down to the listening area.


“Is there a site or forum that have something like the Top 10 2D & 3D projectors”
www.projectorcentral.com also you can find prices from US stores, you would have to call them to see if they deliver to AU.

"I was also told by one dealer, that he took home 4 different projectors and set them up and after everything was set up he asked a couple of friends and his family to pick the clearest projector in both 2D &
3D and ALL of them chose the Optoma HD83 and he said he had a $12,000 projector in those 4 demos that he done which wasn't no where as clear as the HD83, he also told me the name of that $12,000 projector but I forgot what it was."


Question is whether the projectors were demos with “out of the box” i.e. default settings or were they all properly calibrated. If I remember correctly the Optoma are adjusted at the factory to look very nice right out of the box, for those plug and play types.

"You asked me "Does the calibration in the labour include an ISF certified calibration of the projector and receiver?"
I all honesty, I have no idea mate."


IMHO not getting a projector calibrated via an ISF certified specialist is like getting your hands on the Holden Efijy and showing it off to people in a dark garage, especially the Panny which loves to be tweaked.

Would you still chose the Panasonic PT-AT6000E or PT-AE8000U ahead of the Optoma HD83 even if Optoma's customer service was great in Australia?

For me personally Yes, to have cinescope in a room of that size would be awesome imho… Also the motorized zoom and adjustments make life a little easier. BUT if as you said you would have to wait 3 months to a year to get the latest Panny (8000U) I would re examine the Optoma comparing it to last years modle Panny (7000) if its available, Also if the price difference is exorbadant and over budget I would have to reevaluate sadly..

"I will defiantly have to get a universal remote and will check out the Digital R50 but keep in mind that I need a universal remote that is going to be VERY VERY SIMPLE to use, because my parents are in there 60's and they cant even turn a computer on."

Once the remote is programmed via a computer its operation should be simple (one button to turn everything one and set the input/outputs) here is a review of the R50 along with the website with review for many many others. http://www.remotecentral.com/reviews/urc_r50/index.html

In your specific case I would also contact a home automation installer that carries such companies as Control4, AMX, Crestron, Savant to see if any of the touch screens can be activated using a probe such as a stick. The cost will be considerably more but the convenience of having everything from the HT equipment to the lights to the heat..etc may be worth it to you.

Lol just like me to start responding before reading the whole paragraph. I can see that that tecsol remote should work beautifully for you..


Reference buying a 60" LED TV:

There is another option, there are projectors that have LED lamps that last for years. Here is a link to a inexpensive one that I have never seen tested as its new to the market. Considering the price I wouldn’t say the quality would be fantastic but also considering the price it may be worth a gamble. You could mount it just underneath the main one. This way you use the same screen for both. http://www.pylepro.com/store/viewitem.asp?sku=PRJ3D89

“I also want to get a Multi media player with a 3 or 4 TB hard drive because I record a lot of horse races but I am wanting to be able to make folders for each HORSE so to speak and then each time that horse races I can record its race under a file that has been named that horses name.
I guess it's like having a folder for all the different genre's in movies such as: COMEDY, THRILLER, HORROR, BIO, DRAMA & so on. I'm sure this can be done right?”


I am sure it can, however you will have to find yourself a computer geek that can build you an HTPC and configure some multimedia software to do what you looking for. XMBC is a free software that may be up to the task but I am not sure.

“One is glad to be of service” (movie reference)
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post #26 of 35 Old 10-04-12, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

Quote:
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“so from the front speakers to the side speakers would be 9 feet and from the side spekers to where the seating area is would also be 9 feet and the rears would be about 3 feet further behind the seating area but on the side walls

100% correct

a few things to consider:

Your side surrounds may be a little muffled due to the trophies hanging on either side of them, try to keep at least 3 feet of open wall to either side.

the side speakers wont be able to be wall mounted, they will have to be floor standing.

your rear surrounds though further away are still at the sides and will not radiate their sound properly as they should be “aimed” at the listening area. You can probably accomplish this by mounting them on a mount that extends out from the wall and pivots towards the listening area. Or, you can move your rear surrounds to the pillar where you can attach a 3 foot long bracket to either side, hang and angle them down to the listening area.


noted and will consider it thats for sure

“is there a site or forum that have something like the top 10 2d & 3d projectors”
www.projectorcentral.com also you can find prices from us stores, you would have to call them to see if they deliver to au.

i wouldn't get a projector or anything like that from another country, firstly because the usa use 110 volts and here its 240 volts and if you change the wall socket to a 3 point plug or to a australian power socket you lose your warentee.
Secondly i found out the hard way once when i purchased a notebook from the usa which came with a 2 year warentee but after about 8 months it packed up on me but they refused to fix it because they told me i should have purchased it through a athorised dealer in australia.


"i was also told by one dealer, that he took home 4 different projectors and set them up and after everything was set up he asked a couple of friends and his family to pick the clearest projector in both 2d &
3d and all of them chose the optoma hd83 and he said he had a $12,000 projector in those 4 demos that he done which wasn't no where as clear as the hd83, he also told me the name of that $12,000 projector but i forgot what it was."


question is whether the projectors were demos with “out of the box” i.e. Default settings or were they all properly calibrated. If i remember correctly the optoma are adjusted at the factory to look very nice right out of the box, for those plug and play types.

great point i have no idea if he calibrated them all or just showed them straight out the box

"you asked me "does the calibration in the labour include an isf certified calibration of the projector and receiver?"
i all honesty, i have no idea mate."


imho not getting a projector calibrated via an isf certified specialist is like getting your hands on the holden efijy and showing it off to people in a dark garage, especially the panny which loves to be tweaked.

noted and will make sure who ever is installing my a/v system is isf certified

would you still chose the panasonic pt-at6000e or pt-ae8000u ahead of the optoma hd83 even if optoma's customer service was great in australia?

for me personally yes, to have cinescope in a room of that size would be awesome imho…:d also the motorized zoom and adjustments make life a little easier. But if as you said you would have to wait 3 months to a year to get the latest panny (8000u) i would re examine the optoma comparing it to last years modle panny (7000) if its available, also if the price difference is exorbadant and over budget i would have to reevaluate sadly..

the more i read about this pt-ae8000u the more i want it. Can you answer this, if i got the pt-ae8000u am i right in thinking it's the 16:9 screen you would want to get? This way you get to see both 16:9 which is very popular with tv viewing but the added bonus is that it also allows you to watch the aspect ratio 2.35 which is the way almost all movies are recorded in hollywood. Does it change the format automatically or is it just a push of a button on the remote.
Or am i understanding it the wrong way if you purchase the pt-ae8000u? Do you want your screen ratio to be 2.35? I just cant see that working because the 2.35 screens are not as high as 16:9 but wider and i cant help be think if you had a 2.35 screen and you watched something in 16:9 then there will be a lot of image over thrown for example the image would end up being projected on the top and bottom of my rock wall, thats just how im imagining it would work. I will be calling panasonic tomorrow to see when this projector is due to land in australia


"i will defiantly have to get a universal remote and will check out the digital r50 but keep in mind that i need a universal remote that is going to be very very simple to use, because my parents are in there 60's and they cant even turn a computer on."

once the remote is programmed via a computer its operation should be simple (one button to turn everything one and set the input/outputs) here is a review of the r50 along with the website with review for many many others. http://www.remotecentral.com/reviews/urc_r50/index.html

thanks mate.

in your specific case i would also contact a home automation installer that carries such companies as control4, amx, crestron, savant to see if any of the touch screens can be activated using a probe such as a stick. The cost will be considerably more but the convenience of having everything from the ht equipment to the lights to the heat..etc may be worth it to you.

Lol just like me to start responding before reading the whole paragraph. I can see that that tecsol remote should work beautifully for you..


yeah they are great as they hold many commands, i owned one for many years now i have one that works the same way but the one i currently have is the relax this is a link to it: http://www.tecsol.com.au/relax.htm it's a awesome unit but is limited to only 5 remotes so to speak or a total of 50 commands, where as the prog can store upto 14 remotes and up to 240 commands which will do everything for me.

reference buying a 60" led tv:

there is another option, there are projectors that have led lamps that last for years. Here is a link to a inexpensive one that i have never seen tested as its new to the market. Considering the price i wouldn’t say the quality would be fantastic but also considering the price it may be worth a gamble. You could mount it just underneath the main one. This way you use the same screen for both. http://www.pylepro.com/store/viewitem.asp?sku=prj3d89

hmm worth a thought, thats for sure.

“i also want to get a multi media player with a 3 or 4 tb hard drive because i record a lot of horse races but i am wanting to be able to make folders for each horse so to speak and then each time that horse races i can record its race under a file that has been named that horses name.
I guess it's like having a folder for all the different genre's in movies such as: Comedy, thriller, horror, bio, drama & so on. I'm sure this can be done right?”


i am sure it can, however you will have to find yourself a computer geek that can build you an htpc and configure some multimedia software to do what you looking for. Xmbc is a free software that may be up to the task but i am not sure.

thanks again mate you have helped me greatly, although if i dont get the panny pt-ae8000u i might want to put you on my wall. Just kidding mate

“one is glad to be of service” (movie reference)
"bicentennial man"???

Last edited by Wheels1974; 10-04-12 at 06:47 AM.
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post #27 of 35 Old 10-04-12, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

It's amazing what 24 hours does.
I just typed "When is the Panasonic PT-AE8000 due to arrive in Australia" in Google and im now finding Australian sites at least recognising that there is a new Panny. On Google there is a site called: "Panasonic PT-AE8000E projector $4,999 - Hot.com.au"
However when you click on the site, which is: http://www.hot.com.au/price/panasoni...8000-projector
It stipulates this on there site: "Be the first to know when the Panasonic PT-AE8000 is officially released in Australia! Contact us to get on our notification list and find out as soon as we've got pricing and stock available"
So that price of $4,999 is not accurate enough to go by at this stage although I'm guessing it will cost around that mark. The 7000 is $3,300 here today. I can imagine how cheap the 7000 is in the USA. On a different topic to give you a idea a BMW 328i Sedan costs $66,500 stock standard here in Australia, in the USA they cost half the price, it makes me want to

On the posative side of things, after seeing this I think they will be here within the next 1 to 3 months at the latest. I don't mind waiting that long.

What I have a slight concern with on the PT-AE8000 is because my projector will be wall mounted on a 18 inch pillar, my real concern is because the lens is not in the centre, will I be able to make up the difference using the image shift.
The projectors dimensions are: 5.9" x 18.5" x 14.3" (HxWxD) So the projector will be slightly wider then my pillar which is fine as the projector will be on a bracket sticking slightly away from the pillar.
However its Lens shift is +/-100% Vertically, and +/-26% Horizontally.

I'm not sure if that +/-26% Horizontally lens shift will be enough. I'm not totally sure if a 150" screen comes into account when dealing with lens shift also?

Regards
Dean

Last edited by Wheels1974; 10-04-12 at 08:04 AM.
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post #28 of 35 Old 10-04-12, 09:43 AM
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

many many projectors have off centre lenses I can't see this being a factor when aiming it straight forward.

Your screen would be 2.35 and would have a masking system. Now you can view a 16:9 or 4:3 picture without a masking system but it woudn't look a nice because the picture would "bleed" into the white screen on either side. Masking systems can be manual or automatic, however, I would not be able to advise you on their costs. perhasp the company http://www.ozts.com.au/cinemascope.htm can advise you. I know this is all adding up so I can understand that the Optoma is starting to look better financially. The only alternative to using a masking system that I know of is going with a black screen such as one from screen innovations (Black Diamond) but I don't know if that is available in AU http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...po-2012-a.html Review: http://www.hometheater.com/content/s...jection-screen


There are a couple of other vidoes on youtube but unfortunately they are not in english.

I also wondered about the remote can it be programed that it does multiple different things with one key press? i.e. Pressing A, Turns on the projector, turns on the receiver, turns on the bluray, adjust the video inputs/outputs of the receiver/projectors, lowering the lights. Pressing B does all the remote functions to adjust the componets to watch TV..etc. etc.

Last edited by Andre; 10-04-12 at 11:48 AM.
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post #29 of 35 Old 10-04-12, 12:19 PM
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

Reading more about the black screen I can see how it would be very benefical to you especially if you room won't be completely dark for watching. http://www.trustedreviews.com/screen...ojector_review
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post #30 of 35 Old 10-06-12, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Newbie here advice would be appreciated

Quote:
Andre wrote: View Post
many many projectors have off centre lenses I can't see this being a factor when aiming it straight forward.

Your screen would be 2.35 and would have a masking system. Now you can view a 16:9 or 4:3 picture without a masking system but it woudn't look a nice because the picture would "bleed" into the white screen on either side. Masking systems can be manual or automatic, however, I would not be able to advise you on their costs. perhasp the company http://www.ozts.com.au/cinemascope.htm can advise you. I know this is all adding up so I can understand that the Optoma is starting to look better financially. The only alternative to using a masking system that I know of is going with a black screen such as one from screen innovations (Black Diamond) but I don't know if that is available in AU http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...po-2012-a.html Review: http://www.hometheater.com/content/s...jection-screen

Thanks again, im leaning towards your idea of getting a motorized screen and having the 60" LED TV directly mounted on the rock wall, this way when the screen is down you wont see the LED TV.
The overall look of everything if done this way will look so much more professional with out a doubt.
I have no doubt that I will get very little change from $20,000 if I were to get a Black Diamond 150" motorized screen, The Panasonic PT-AE8000 projector, either a Integra DTR 70.3 or the NAD T777 Receiver, Oppo BDP-95 Blu-Ray and a DVD recorder. However I don't mind spending that kind of money providing it will look Awesome & sound Awesome.


You said this:
"Your screen would be 2.35 and would have a masking system. Now you can view a 16:9 or 4:3 picture without a masking system but it woudn't look a nice because the picture would "bleed" into the white screen on either side."

Excuse my lack of knowledge when it comes to all this AV stuff.
I'm a little confused on this masking topic now. If I purchased the Panasonic PT-AE8000 Projector which can automatically change the aspect ratio from 2.35 to 16:9
Secondly if I purchased a 2.35 screen would the screen still need to have a masking system?
Lastly if I was able to purchase a motorized 150" 2.35 Black Diamond screen would it still need a masking system? The reason I ask this is because Black Diamond say there is no need for masking when purchasing a Black Diamond screen, however how true this is I don't know


IFA 2009 - Panasonic PT-AE4000 Auto Zoom - YouTube

There are a couple of other vidoes on youtube but unfortunately they are not in english.

I also wondered about the remote can it be programed that it does multiple different things with one key press? i.e. Pressing A, Turns on the projector, turns on the receiver, turns on the bluray, adjust the video inputs/outputs of the receiver/projectors, lowering the lights. Pressing B does all the remote functions to adjust the componets to watch TV..etc. etc.
That would be very very handy to say the least especially for someone in my situation but to my knowledge there isn't anything like that on the market.
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